chrysler voyager 2.8 crd timing belt interval

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Timing belt change

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Hi Is there any info on timing belt changes for the 2.8CRD engine around, something like how to do it yourself? I have a 2008 2.8CRD Thanks, Thomasx  

None on this side of the pond. I googled this: https://www.google.com/webhp?source...=UTF-8#q=chrysler+voyager+2.8+crd+timing+belt  

Hi Thomasx I have a 25th anniversary 2.8 CRD with 70K the service book states 125K however I will change at 80K. The last one I had was a 2004 recommended 80k which I bought with 132K to discover the belt had not been done. I am not sure why the interval has moved out maybe better materials? The first Diesels used in the GV in europe were Italian with chain drive, the 2.5/2.8 from 2003 ish onward is a Mercedes unit the old adage I feel that 80 k is probably best. The 2.8 is a big heavy lump, and with the water pump sitting behind the cambelt so it makes sense to change that also otherwise you just know it will leak after the cambelt is changed. I would say garage job unless you have hoist and well stocked garage, it is probably quicker to drop the engine out and do it that way, the garage that did my 2003 said that getting to the water pump was a nightmare as there is not much room. But as Clint used to say "Do you feel lucky"  

Never had to change the belt on a CRD mini van, however, we did one on our ’05 Jeep Liberty CRD that had the 2.8L engine in it at right around 100k miles. Honestly, it was a bitch to do IMO. However, I didn't want to pay the dealer to do it, mainly because I was younger and thought I knew everything, and well, guess my time wasn't worth as much then. Its not really all that difficult if you have the proper tools and a place to do it. It will take you and a buddy a few hours and a case of beer to finish the job and a few tools you won't likely find out your local auto parts store. Mainly you'll need to way to lock the cams in place so they don't move and be sure to paint the orientation of anything that turns so it came be put back in the same location upon reassembly of the engine. Seems to me we replaced not only the belt, but the belt tensioner, idler pully, water pump, thermastate and housing, includng all the gasets associated with said parts and the serpentine belt all at the same time. Pretty much the same rule applied to the VW TDIs.  

Only thing I can add is that Wrangler may have more room to work with, Van is tight for Water pump.  

I don't know about accessing the W/P on these vans, but sometimes you need to loosen some motor mounts and then jack up or lower the motor with a jack underneath to make accessing some parts easier. There has to be some YouTube videos out there.  

Hi Thomasx there is really little difference between the models with regard to access for the CRD engine. Good Luck  

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Timing Belt Replacement 2.8 CRD

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Hi guys, I just bought myself a Jeep Wrangler 2.8 CRD from 2012. In the paperwork I could find all the maintenance, but not the replacement date / km of the timing belt. Now a friend in The Netherlands checked my timing belt at the garage, and he told that this belt still looks good, so no need for replacement. But still I am a bit worried, because it was replaced at 100.000km, and now I have 220.000km. I don't know if it was replaced before that time. What would you recommend?  

I would recommend replacement. Unlike a timing chain, a timing belt (rubber) obviously wears and degrades faster. Every 112.000-128.000 km is a good interval for replacing a timing belt.  

Thanks for your message! The guy from the garage checked the belt and said I can easily drive 80.000-100.000km with it. Can this be possible, that you see the state of the chain from the outside?  

It's not a timing chain (metal). It's a timing belt (rubber) on the 2.8. No, you'd have to remove timing cover to inspect the belt.  

Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.  

Thanks!! Love my Wrangler already!  

It should probably be replaced. It's nearly impossible to too the condition of these newer belts by just looking at them. Replacing them before they break is a LOT cheaper than after it breaks. In most engines, other damage can happen if they break while running.  

Get the kit and change the tensioner and pulleys too not just the belt. Also water pump if it is part of the loop.  

Unless your mechanic spent quite a bit of time removing the fan shroud, fan assembly, timing belt covers and various other stuff he didn't see the timing belt, he looked at the serpentine fan belt and didn't know the difference. If that is truly the case find a different mechanic that has experience working on diesel rigs, VM Motori engines in particular or they will probably mess up the engine. I have performed this same belt change on the 2006 2.8 VM diesel sold in the Jeep Liberty for the US market several times. The 2.8 in your JK is a different design from the Liberty so the process is similar, not exactly the same. Heed the advise of "get the kit", get detailed instructions or make sure your mechanic has them or better yet find some one who has done this, don't let them learn how on yours. Not sure about the 2.8 on a JK but on an 06KJ it is an interference engine, meaning if you loose that belt the valves hit the pistons, bend or break the rockers and trash the engine instantly, major cost to repair. Belt change interval is not an option and for goodness sake buy a quality timing belt from a reputable manufacturer. Don't cheap out and just replace the belt. All moving parts that touch the belt should be changed while you are in there. Every idler pulley and ifits similar to a Liberty, the water pump also. A new belt that runs on an old bearing is a bad idea, if the bearing fails and the belt jumps time it is just as bad a breaking. Here is a video of the JK change process from youtube, not my video, but watch it and you will see that nobody can do a "quick" check on a JK diesel timing belt. VM makes very good engines, and has for years. My daughter traded her 05 2.8 KJ off at 260,000 miles still going strong but the interior was falling apart. I have 126k on my limited model and it will probably outlast me. An average mechanic with instructions and the special timing tools can do this job but without experience or instructions the odds of success really fall.  

x2 to @CMSRock According to VM Motori the timing belt should be replaced every 160 000km (100k miles) S to be safe 120-130kkm is the way to go. Replace it as a whole set with all pulleys and always replace a water pump. Don´t be cheap on parts. Go with the best you can get. Genuine VM or at least INA, SKF or similar. While you are in, i´d recommend to clean the radiator surface and the place between radiator and AC condenser/TOC assembly and also replace the viscous fan drive. Here i´d suggest to go with Hayden heavy duty viscous drive.  

WERE DO YOU BUY A Hayden heavy duty viscous drive ?  

Hayden's Fan Clutches from FanClutch.com 800-525-0164

welcome  

Wow, CMSrock, very helpful. Many thanks.  

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2007 Chrysler Voyager Fourth generation Service Intervals

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To save your time and money and be safe on the road service your car as prescribed in Chrysler Voyager service schedule. Regular service will extend your car live and will save you money in long term.

Please be noted that all capacities listed here are approximate. Check fluid levels when adding or refilling as recommended in your 2007 Chrysler Voyager user's manual. Keep in mind that all information here is provided “as is” without any warranty of any kind.

Before doing any DIY service please check your insurance policy and Chrysler warranty policy for your region. In some regions DIY service may invalidate your warranty.

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DIY car service is not as difficult as it looks like and it might save you thousands of dollars per year. It might be even fun and a good thing to do with your kids on a weekend to teach them how basic machinery works. It's really hard to screw something up and damage your car permanently if you use right tools, follow Chrysler Voyager service manual and use right parts and fluids in prescribed amounts. Even modern cars stuffed with electronics can be serviced in your garage or even in your driveway. Changing engine oil, brake fluid, ATF, replacing brake pads, and etc. It's all may be done by yourself in a mater of a couple of hours.

Doing basic service for your 2007 Chrysler Voyager you're not only saving money, but also also improving your technical skills and learning something new.

Chrysler Voyager Fourth generation model years

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Chrysler Voyager — TIMING CHAIN OR BELT?

| Home / Chrysler / List of Chrysler Voyager Models without Timing Belt

The Chrysler Voyager is a minivan ( D-segment in Europe) from the American automaker Chrysler.

The first generation Chrysler Voyager model was released in 1988 as a rebadged version of the Dodge Caravan , which was sold in the United States. This would serve as the basis for the various generations of the Voyager. However, its evolution also depended on the Plymouth Voyager and the Chrysler Town & Country . This first version used the Chrysler S platform . It fitted only large displacement in-line 4-cylinder gasoline engines and a Mitsubishi-derived V6. The model arrived in Europe in 1988 as a rebadged Dodge Caravan , only with fewer engines available.

The second generation would arrive in 1991. It used a more advanced platform (Chrysler AS Platform) and included turbo diesel versions developed by VM Motori. The design followed suit as a 3-door “minivan”.

From the third generation onwards, important changes took place due to the fact that Chrysler Corporation became DaimlerChrysler AG. The model was launched in 1996 and Daimler would become a shareholder 2 years later. It was sold as a 3-door minivan as well as a 4-door minivan, with short and long wheelbase models.

At the end of the third and the beginning of the fourth generation , DaimlerChrysler decided to get rid of the Playmouth brand in 2001, dropping the Plymouth Voyager with it. In the U.S., however, the small version of the Chrysler Voyager (SWB or short wheelbase) replaced the Plymouth Voyager, and in 2003 only the Town & Country model (known in Europe as Grand Voyager) and the Dodge variants remained. Despite being a fairly successful model in sales , the large version scored rather poorly in EuroNCAP safety tests. The short version scored better overall. They were produced on Chrysler’s RG and RS platforms.

In 2008, the fifth generation of the Voyager arrived. This model aimed to position itself as a luxury MPV. It was sold as Grand Voyager in the European market only, a version of the American Town & Country . It was produced on the Chrysler RT platform and attracted the attention even of Volkswagen, which wanted to enter the American market with the Volkswagen Routan , a variant of the Grand Voyager with a different bodywork and whose development has nothing to do with the Volkswagen Sharan . The model would also be sold as RAM Cargo Van and Lancia Voyager from 2011, after the first restyling and the entry of FCA.

The sixth and current generation Chrysler Voyager is nothing more than a low-end variant of the Chrysler Pacifica and arrived on the market in late 2020. Already within the Stellantis conglomerate, the group ended production of the Dodge Grand Caravan , making the Voyager the entry-level minivan of what remains of the former FCA group.

Chrysler Voyager. Timing Belt or Timing Chain?

Down below you will see a list with all Chrysler Voyager models that have been produced. They are classified by model identifier , year and type of bodywork . Above each list, we show you a series of pictures so that you can have a visual reference for each model. In some cases, both the original and its updated design are displayed to help you identify them with ease.

In this guide you will find all Chrysler Voyager.

■ Timing Belt / Cam Belt (Correa / Faja de Distribución) ■ Timing Chain (Cadena de Distribución / Cadena de Tiempo) ■ Gear Driven (Distribución por Engranajes) ■ 100% Electric, No Timing (Sin Distribución) ■ Unknown / Not Updated (Información desconocida)

If a car model is specified in blue, it means its motor engine has a timing chain ; that is, it has no timing belt . The rest of the vehicles marked in grey have a timing belt/cam belt

Índice de Contenidos

Chrysler Voyager I – First Generation (AS) (1989)

Diesel Engines

There are no diesel-engined versions of the Chrysler Voyager Gen 1.

Petrol Engines

• EDM 2.5 98 CV (1988 – 1990)
• EFA 3.0 136 CV (1987 – 1990)
• EFA 3.0 137 CV (1987 – 1990)
• EGA 3.3 152 CV (1989 – 1990)

Chrysler Voyager II – Second Generation (ES) (1991)

• VMHR425CLIEE 2.5 TD 116 CV (1992 – 1996)
• 09B 2.5 TD 118 CV (1992 – 1997)
• K00 2.5 i 98 CV (1991 – 1995)
• K 2.5 i 101 CV (1990 – 1995)
• EFA 3.0 141 CV (1990 – 1995)
• 6G72 3.0 i 147 CV (1991 – 1995)
• EGA 3.3 i 150 CV (1990 – 1995)
• EGA 3.3 i 163 CV (1990 – 1995)
• EGA 3.3 i AWD 150 CV (1990 – 1995)
• R00 3.3 i AWD 163 CV (1990 – 1995)

Chrysler Voyager / Grand Voyager III – Third Generation (GS) (1996)

• ENC 2.5 TD 116 CV (1995 – 2001)
• ENC 2.5 TDiC AWD 116 CV (1995 – 2001)
• C00 2.0 i 133 CV (1995 – 2001)
• EDZ 2.4 AWD 151 CV (1997 – 2001)
• B00 2.4 i 151 CV (1995 – 2001)
• EFA 3.0 152 CV (1995 – 2001)
• EGA 3.3 160 CV (1997 – 2000)
• EGA 3.3 AWD 160 CV (1997 – 2000)
• EGM 3.3 Flexfuel 182 CV (2000)
• R00 3.3 i 158 CV (1995 – 2001)
• EGA 3.3 i 180 CV (1995 – 2001)
• EGH 3.8 162 CV (1995 – 1999)
• EGH 3.8 182 CV (1997 – 2000)
• EGH 3.8 166 CV (1996 – 2000)
• EGH 3.8 178 CV (1997 – 2000)
• EGH 3.8 169 CV (1996 – 2000)
• EGH 3.8 AWD 182 CV (1997 – 2000)
• EGH 3.8 AWD 169 CV (1996 – 2000)
• L00 3.8 i AWD 166 CV (1995 – 2001)
• EGH 3.8 i AWD 178 CV (1995 – 2001)

Chrysler Voyager / Grand Voyager IV – Fourth Generation (RG, RS) (2001)

• ENJ 2.5 CRD 141 CV (2000 – 2008)
• EDK 2.5 CRD 120 CV (2005 – 2008)
• ENR 2.8 CRD 150 CV (2004 – 2008)
• EDZ 2.4 147 CV (2000 – 2008)
• EDZ 2.4 151 CV (2003 – 2007)
• EGM 3.3 174 CV (2000 – 2008)
• EGM 3.3 180 CV (2003 – 2008)
• EGM 3.3 173 CV (1999 – 2008)
• EGA 3.3 AWD 174 CV (2000 – 2008)
• EGM 3.3 Flex-Fuel 174 CV (2000 – 2008)
• EGM 3.3 Flexfuel 182 CV (2000 – 2003)
• EGM 3.3 Flexfuel 173 CV (2006 – 2007)
• EGM 3.3 Flexfuel AWD 182 CV (2000 – 2003)
• EGH 3.8 218 CV (2000 – 2008)
• EGH 3.8 209 CV (2004 – 2006)
• EGH 3.8 203 CV (2006 – 2007)
• EGH 3.8 AWD 218 CV (2000 – 2008)

Chrysler Grand Voyager V – Fifth Generation (RT) (2008)

• ENS 2.8 CRD 163 CV (2007)
• ENS 2.8 CRD 180 CV (2012)
• EGV 3.3 170 CV (2008)
• EGV 3.3 177 CV (2007 – 2008)
• ERB 3.6 283 CV (2011)
• ERB 3.6 287 CV (2011)
• EGL 3.8 193 CV (2007)
• EGL 3.8 200 CV (2008)
• EGH 3.8 201 CV (2007)
• EMM 4.0 243 CV (2007)
• EGQ 4.0 254 CV (2007)
• ERB 3.6 Flexfuel 287 CV (2011)

See More Chrysler Models

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You are here: Home » Services » Maintenance » Timing Belts » Chrysler timing belt interval

Chrysler timing belt interval

You will need to know your vehicle’s engine size to use this table. Once you know, you can determine your Chrysler timing belt interval by using the first table and the reference key. Be sure to look at the second table to see whether or not the engine is interference-fit.

Interference/non-interference

Reference key.

{1} – Manufacturer does not recommend a specific maintenance interval.

{3} – replace every 105,000 miles in normal service, every 90,000 in severe service.

{15} – On 1996 & prior models, replace at 60,000 mile intervals. On 1997-2000 models, inspect at 60,000 mile intervals & replace as required, if belt was satisfactory at 60,000 miles, replace at 90,000 miles. On 2001-08 models, inspect at 60,000 mile intervals & replace as required, if belt was satisfactory replace at 100,000 miles.

{17} – Replacement at 60,000 mile intervals is recommended but not required, replace timing belt at 100,000 miles if not previously changed.

{18} – Under normal conditions, replace at intervals of 110,000 miles or every 84 months. If vehicle is operated at ambient temperatures under -20°F or above 110°F, replace at 60,000 mile intervals.

{42} – On 1994 & prior models, replace at 60,000 mile intervals. On 1995-96 models, replacement at 60,000 mile intervals is recommended but not required, replace timing belt at 100,000 miles if not previously replaced.

{61} On 2007 & prior years, every 105,000 miles. On 2008-09 models, normal service, replace every 102,000 miles; severe service, replace every 105,000 miles. On 2010 miles, replace every 120,000 miles.

{62} On 2005-07, normal service, replace every 102,000 miles; severe service, replace every 105,000 miles. On 2008-10 models, every 102,000 miles.

We can help. Whether you need an estimate or more information to make a decision, please...

This page was last edited on 10/11/2016 by CarScope Repair & Diagnosis .

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Maintenance schedule for Chrysler Voyager CRD 2.8, 2006 year, european RG serie

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Hello, I have a Chrysele Vojager CRD 2.8, turbo diesel, 2006 year. It's european version RG IV serie. I do not have the user manual and maintenance manual. Can someone send it me? Now, it is with 95000 km. I need the maintenance schedule. When I have to change oil ad filter engine, oil and filter automatic trasmission, transmission belt? Thanks  

Hello, I found more manuals with more maitenance schedules. 6 schedules total. I'm interessing to "Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter". But I noticed that this type of maintenance is recomended only for police, taxi, limousine type operation, or trailer towin, at 100000 km and 200000 km, and only by one of 6 schedules. Nothing for other cases. I'm confusing. I believed this kind of maintenance was very important, but it seem not. These are 6 schedules: 1) schedule A (vehicle under no-stressed conditions) (10000 km steps); 2) schedule B (vehicle under stressed conditions) (5000 km steps); 3) schedule A export only (12000 km steps), 4) schedule B export only (5000 km steps), 5) schedule A diesel export only (20000 km steps), 6) schedule B diesel export only (10000 km steps). The maintenace of automatic transmission is mentionated by 2) schedule only.  

That is the same in the US. Servicing the automatic transmission is not required under normal use. However, there’s no reason you can’t service it. Just be sure the proper ATF+4 fluid is used.  

Welcome to Allpar. If it is 95000km and it brings peace-of-mind, fluid changes may increase component longevity. Fluids do age and 'wear-out'. I was going to suggest the oskin.ru Chrysler manual website for export (RG-body) information, scheduled maintenance and service procedures. Index of /pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2005_RG_Town&Country_Caravan_Voyager_Diesel_Versions_Include (at http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/2005_RG_Town&Country_Caravan_Voyager_Diesel_Versions_Include/ )  

Thanks. In DIESEL EXPORT maintenance schedule, the steps for chance filter/oil engine are 20000 km. Is it a good choose? I read this: Changing and flushing automatic transmission fluid (at https://www.allpar.com/eek/atf.html ) In the middle paragraph: "Flushing the system: a more complete method", it shows how to change the fluid at all, from cooler line. Is it a good choose?  

giurti said: Thanks. In DIESEL EXPORT maintenance schedule, the steps for chance filter/oil engine are 20000 km. Is it a good choose? Click to expand...

If you flush the transmission fluid, then the filter doesn’t get changed. If you drop the pan and change the filter, not all the fluid gets changed. The choice is yours.  

I drop the pan and change the filter. But i do non sure if it need to flush the transmission fluid.  

There is approximately 1 quart / 1 liter of fluid in the transmission cooler lines and assembly. If you disconnect the return line that carries fluid from the radiator cooler back to the transmission, it will get that amount purged. The cooler lines are oriented horizontally on the transmission. The port closest to the right front of the engine compartment is the return from the cooler to the transmission. Disconnect this line at transmission and direct into a catch container and run engine for about 30 seconds to flush the cooler assembly.  

Generally if the fluid is burnt or contaminated, I will flush (transfusion) it out. The pan-down service manual procedure is the one I usually perform if it is only a matter of maintenance. Some customers have asked for both replacing the filter and that transfusion. so they get a new filter, clean pan and magnet and 100% new fluid. With the pan off, I can change the filter and check the chip magnet and the bottom of the pan for any warning signs of excessive wear or impending trouble. Slight wear and light silt on the magnet and on the pan bottom are normal and can be used as a baseline for the next time the pan comes off. Make sure that the old filter o-ring is removed. Many times it sticks inside the valvebody and will prevent the new filter from seating correctly. Check the torques on the valve body bolts as there are times when I have found these loosened up. RTV that can withstand ATF or a rubber pan gasket can be used to reassemble the pan to the transaxle. OEM parts are best to use. I have had issues with non-OEM parts. Cork gaskets are obsolete IMHO. As stated, only use ATF+4 or an ATF that meets Chrysler MS-9602.  

The recommended diesel engine oil is discussed in the service manual on p. 0-6: http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/...oyager_Diesel_Versions_Include/2005-RG-SM.pdf Always read the label and select the proper oil: "Use only Diesel Engine Oil meeting standard MIL- 2104C or API Classification CD or higher or CCML D4, D5. To assure of properly formulated engine oils, it is recommended that SAE Grade 10W-40 engine oils that meet Chrysler material standard MS-6395, be used in accordance to ACEA B3, B4 specification. European Grade 10W-40 oils are also acceptable. Oils of the SAE 5W-40 grade number are preferred when minimum temperatures consistently fall below -15°C".  

ImperialCrown said: The recommended diesel engine oil is discussed in the service manual on p. 0-6: http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2005_RG_Town&Country_Caravan_Voyager_Diesel_Versions_Include/2005-RG-SM.pdf Always read the label and select the proper oil: "Use only Diesel Engine Oil meeting standard MIL- 2104C or API Classification CD or higher or CCML D4, D5. To assure of properly formulated engine oils, it is recommended that SAE Grade 10W-40 engine oils that meet Chrysler material standard MS-6395, be used in accordance to ACEA B3, B4 specification. European Grade 10W-40 oils are also acceptable. Oils of the SAE 5W-40 grade number are preferred when minimum temperatures consistently fall below -15°C". Click to expand...

Thanks very all. I'm in Italy and temperatures are not extreme. I do 10000 km year average; most in summer. In winter, I park the car in garage (temperature > 6°C). Only few day I go to mountain for skiing. I'm getting convinced that 15000 km is a good choice for change oil engine. Shops that uses flushing machine inline with the transmission cooler are too expensive.These shops say they guarantee complete change of fluid, but your experience do not confirme it, rigth? I beleave I follow your advice. First, I use a cheap oli extractor pump,to aspirate oil from check dipstik seat, and refill it. After some weeks, I remove and clean pan, and refill fluid.  

giurti said: . . . I'm in Italy and temperatures are not extreme. I do 10000 km year average; most in summer. In winter, I park the car in garage (temperature > 6°C). Only few day I go to mountain for skiing. I'm getting convinced that 15000 km is a good choice for change oil engine.. . . . Click to expand...

. . . Shops that uses flushing machine inline with the transmission cooler are too expensive.These shops say they guarantee complete change of fluid, but your experience do not confirme it, rigth?. . . Click to expand...

. . .I beleave I follow your advice. First, I use a cheap oli extractor pump,to aspirate oil from check dipstik seat, and refill it. After some weeks, I remove and clean pan, and refill fluid. . . . Click to expand...

5W-30 seems a thin viscosity, even in cold weather. I would follow the recommendation of 10W-40 viscosity in temperate climates. I am unfamiliar with the ACEA European oil categories, but the information here helps to understand the oil differences: ACEA Engine Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org (at https://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php ) I do not see where Selenia Multipower C3 meets MIL-2104, but it does appear to satisfy API SM/CD (being rated a CF): https://extranetpli-eu.pli-petronas.com/dsp/pdf/eng/scat/1157_scat_eng.pdf I would only use the oil recommended in the manual to be safe.  

I think that the website is considering only Chrysler gasoline engines. There is no mention of diesel engines. Are Lubrita oils available in your area? http://www.lubrita.com/uploads/brosiuros/04-Lubrita_Commercial_Vehicle_Broshure_new.pdf http://www.lubrita.com/uploads/Prod...ta_DEO_HPX_10W-40_TDS_updated_28072014_En.pdf http://www.lubrita.com/uploads/Products/product_339/TDS_Lubrita_DEO_EHPX_LD_10W-40_En.pdf http://www.lubrita.com/uploads/Products/product_341/TDS_Lubrita_DEO_UHPX_ECO_10W-40_En.pdf  

Thanks very much, You are very help for me, here and in other threads. I have seen lubrita sheets, but I do not find MS-6395 nowhere. This is ths MS-6395 standard specification: Motor Oil: Certification: MS-6395 Requirements | Jeep Off Road Adventures (at http://jeepoffroadadventures.com/wp/?page_id=801 ) You can see it mentions 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 only, never 10W40 or 5W40. How is it possible that mantenance manual recommends 10W40 and MS-6395, but 10W40 is not mention in MS-6395 standard?  

The MS-6395 is just one of the standards. If it meets any of the other standards listed (MIL, API, CCML or ACEA), then it should be OK to use in your diesel engine. I think that the 5W-30 you are using for oil now is too thin a viscosity for summer. A 10W-40 would be better, especially in the warmer weather. I have read some threads on 'Bob the oil guy' for guidance on what lubricants to use. It can be confusing with all the different standards and personal preferences for motor oils. I always strive to accommodate the vehicle manufacturer recommendations. The internet has a lot of information on motor oil and HDEO for diesel applications. A lot depends on what is available to you locally that would satisfy the recommended oil qualities in your service/owners manual. The label on the oil bottle should give certain information about the contents. An ACEA (B3, B4) specification might be the easiest to go by: ACEA Engine Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org (at https://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php )  

ImperialCrown said: The MS-6395 is just one of the standards. If it meets any of the other standards listed (MIL, API, CCML or ACEA), then it should be OK to use in your diesel engine. I think that the 5W-30 you are using for oil now is too thin a viscosity for summer. A 10W-40 would be better, especially in the warmer weather. I have read some threads on 'Bob the oil guy' for guidance on what lubricants to use. It can be confusing with all the different standards and personal preferences for motor oils. I always strive to accommodate the vehicle manufacturer recommendations. The internet has a lot of information on motor oil and HDEO for diesel applications. A lot depends on what is available to you locally that would satisfy the recommended oil qualities in your service/owners manual. The label on the oil bottle should give certain information about the contents. An ACEA (B3, B4) specification might be the easiest to go by: ACEA Engine Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org (at https://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php ) Click to expand...

AllanC said: I agree that 15000 km is a proper oil change interval for your driving situation. As mentioned previously follow the service manual specifications for European diesel engine oil standards, ACEA. You are correct. No repair shop can guarantee complete change of fluid. This will be the best procedure to follow. It gets the most fluid removed and exchanged while helping to keep money costs lower. Click to expand...

Once the pan is dropped, simply wipe it out.  

AllanC said: ... This will be the best procedure to follow. It gets the most fluid removed and exchanged while helping to keep money costs lower. Click to expand...

Don’t run it without fluid. You will damage it.  

Thanks Can I move the selector lever to set gear to each position without start engine?  

Thanks. I completed first step. I extracted fluid by means of a pump. It was very easy. I extracted 4.5 liters, and I have inserted only 4 liters (I believe that previous fluid was too full). I did not start the engine; I did move lever to set gear to each position. As soon as I find some time, I will observe better the fluid to feel if it is degraded and if there are some iron residue. Now I'm going to do some kilometers (I believe 1000 Km, do you think it's enough?) and after I will do second step: drop the pan. To avoid to dirty all with fluid that drop from the pan, I will extract the fluid by means of the pump and after I will drop the pan. I have only 4 liters of new fluid. In the case I will have to put more of 4 liters of fluid, I'm in doubt if buy other 1 liter, or if I will reuse some of extracted fluid to fill correct level. Rather, I have another doubt. I did change engine oil and filter also. I did fill 5 liters of new oil, but the maintenance manual shows 6 liters. (at moment I did not misure how many liters extracted) The filter size seems the same. I have a boubt about procedure: I unscrewed the oil cap, I droped the oil, I screwed the oil cap, and, only after, I removed oil filter. Maybe, is the correct procedure that to remove the filter before to screw the oil cap?  

giurti said: . . . . Now I'm going to do some kilometers (I believe 1000 Km, do you think it's enough?) and after I will do second step: drop the pan. . . . . Click to expand...

. . . . I'm in doubt if buy other 1 liter, or if I will reuse some of extracted fluid to fill correct level. . . . Click to expand...

. . . I have a boubt about procedure: I unscrewed the oil cap, I droped the oil, I screwed the oil cap, and, only after, I removed oil filter. Maybe, is the correct procedure that to remove the filter before to screw the oil cap? . . . . Click to expand...

A short drive tru every gear incl reverse is enough to mix the new oil with old. No need to drive any longer. - Engine oil, this thing uses HDEO, or hevy duty Engine oil. Its the same oil that big rig diesels use, usually cheap but can be problematic to find in smaller pacages and with a cold rating below 10w. - find a Place that services/ sells trucks, tractors, excavators or so and its easily avail there. If temps usually are over 0 degC you can use a 15w-40, i live in sweden were it can get down into -25dC and a 10w-40 HDEO doesent give me any problem.  

Hello. What power steering fluid can I use on my chrysler voyager (crd 2.8 diesel , 2006 year)? There is a mopar dedicated oil? Can I use others brands oil?  

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Chrysler Voyager (2004 - 2008) - 04 2.8 Cambelt change on 2.8CRD

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• Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)

Cam Belt Or Chain?

Asked by Adel , December 1, 2016

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I bought recently a Chrysler Grand voyager 2.8CRD.

There were no service history and no manual.

Car dealer told me it was a chain. Checking online I see cambelt.

I went to a mechanic for him to do service and check and he told me chain so I am confused.

also I just found out Chrisler wont see anymore cars. So I am not sure if I can buy a user manual.

I found this forum through a similar topic and found the russian ftp link.

The closest I found was the 2005-RG-SM.pdf but the service interval goes from Every 6000 miles to 12000miles.

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Hi, Adel, what year is it?

My Autodata shows that 2.8 engines were fitted on voyagers 2001-2008, grand voyagers 2001-2008 and grand voyagers 2008+ (which is the new shape). To all it showed a cam belt replacement with instructions and pictures.

Only the one 2008+ it does not show any data under timing belt section, that one is probably chain but I'm not sure.

I attached two pictures, in one is a 2.5/2.8 engine ( they look the same) and one with a picture taken from my car. If you have those labels bellow the red  "x" I marked n the engine picture it means it will have a cam belt.

I hope it helps.

Yes it's a belt (What year car?), I had mine changed around the 105,000 mark as had no previous owner history. When you get the belt done, get the water pump too since it's a difficult/time consuming job and whilst you've got it in for the belt it's worth that being done too.

Total was around the £600 here in the UK but I know others have had it done cheaper (Mine was at a garage group, not independent)

 What mileage is the car on? Having had the expense of a snapped belt on my first Grand Voyager (£1600 as I had to spend £400 on tools), I'd highly recommend doing it if it's due. 

 When I bought my 2.8, I asked the dealer if it had been changed. He didn't know so changed it before I picked it up. Also on around 105k.  Just noticed your post in the newbie section saying it's a 2004, so as said, it's definately a belt.  When I was looking, there was one dealer i visited told me it was a chain as well. 

Chain Camshaft drive, its not surprising as the amount of times I've seen Voyagers advertised with Merc 2.8 diesel engines. Think the Merc was actually 2.9.

Many thanks for your promt reply.

@Andy: As said by Soupstone it is a 2004. mileage is 103000 miles.

For what I read it is either 10 years or 62500 miles. So I was expecting it to be done if it was belt.

@Mike: The data is different from what I found so far. 60 months the car is much older.

I can see this picture. I have a 2.8 and for what I read 2.8 means automatic, 2.5 means manual.

other than that there is no difference.

Any recommendation on where to buy the cambelt kit and water pump?

Same question for the brand?

When mines went, I got most of the parts I needed from here.    http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/  

So I found a much better mechanic.

I asked him if it was chain or cambelt and he said cambelt after 30s.

he said to change as well water pump and fan belt.

£140 for labour. it seems a very good price.

I have to provide part. I had a look at ebay and it was strange.

from £95 to £139

some with water pump included.

on eurocarparts it is more about £188 without water pump.

By Chrysler it is officially a Four hour job. But they are about £120+ per hour. Back in 2013 they were charging £750 for the job.

Thanks Gordy.

I ll close the topic as now I know for sure I need to change the cambelt.

One of the other question is where I can buy a user manual?

I would like to start the service history on it.

Full workshop  manuals  list  here , the elusive copy of the RG diesel is  here .

Many thanks QinteQ.

I got that copy. 

can you confirm service should be done as below?

I was more  looking for something on paper to get stamp from the garage after each service.

Cam is 60k for taxi / rough use 100k for normal personally 80k would be my own 'get it done'date. You know all the others you ask are common sense for example unless you have garage stamped and dated evidence and receipts then always assume its not done regardless. The facts are that fluids are never changed and the handbrake parts are never looked at after year 3 of its life.filters [including cabin pollen] are cheap and a DIY. If you do the back brakes drain, flush, and completely change the hydroscopic brake fluid at the same time which won't have been done since the car was brand new. Diitto the antifreeze and easy DIY job but only use G05 and distilled water and make sure you front flush through with a hose including having the engine running and the heater full belt to clean the heater matrix and alloy radiator. Brakes, tie legs and boots only when needed and knocking. Transmission and engine oil are very lifeblood of a system and the biggest gift you can ever give is a full transfusion not topping-up !

Plenty of posts, pictures and advice on both forums, best of luck.

Hi QinteQ. Thanks for that advise, I have had so many different answers to the timing belt change interval that my head spins.... Some other great info there, thanks.

Hi QinteQ. Thanks for that advise, I have had so many different answers to the timing belt change interval that my head spins.... Some other great info there, thanks.   Keith

Your welcome friend. Our rads, are alloy and hardly ever get a complete change of fluid [ditto brake fluid etc] in their life, they are designed for HOAT and yet garages top up with anything handy usually cheepo non-HOAT any brand, there's no wonder they get gunged up with bits, back flushing an alloy rad hardly ever does any good. I did my usual old school cheat of bottom hose off just a little, hose pipe in the top at the same flow rate, heater full to flush the matrix and let it run clear. Bottom & top hose buttoned up, bring it to heat, quick check a day later for level.

On the statMOD I used a Quinton Hazell 210 Thermostat

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Russia’s BN800 fast reactor fully fuelled with mox

!{Model.Description}

Beloyarsk 4 was connected to the grid and resumed electricity production after the completing its latest regular maintenance and refuelling outage. It was refuelled with mox fuel assemblies (FAs) produced at the Mining and Chemical Combine (MCC) in Zheleznogorsk, Krasnoyarsk Territory). Unlike the enriched uranium FAs traditionally used in NPPs, the raw materials for the production of mox fuel pellets includes plutonium oxide obtained during the processing of used fuel from conventional VVER reactors alongside depleted uranium oxide, obtained by defluorination of depleted uranium hexafluoride (DUHF – “tails" from enrichment production).

The first serial mox-FAs were loaded into the BN-800 core in January 2020. The first complete refuelling of the BN-800 with mox fuel took place in January 2021, and then, over the next two refuellings, all fuel assemblies were gradually replaced with innovative mox assemblies.

Other important work performed during the outage of unit 4 included overhaul of the main circulation pump with the replacement of the removable parts, maintenance and repair of pumps, heat exchangers, steam generators and a turbogenerator. Also, the operational quality control of metal and welded joints of pipelines was carried out as well as tests of the system for monitoring the tightness of shells using a metrological assembly.

“Today, Beloyarsk NPP is one of the flagships bringing the Russian nuclear industry closer to a new technological platform based on a closed nuclear fuel cycle,” said Beloyarsk NPP Director Ivan Sidorov. “The use of mox fuel will make it possible to increase the fuel base of the nuclear power industry tenfold. And most importantly, in the BN-800 reactor, after appropriate processing, used nuclear fuel from other NPPs can be recycled.”

Alexander Ugryumov, Senior Vice President for Scientific and Technical Activities at TVEL said completing conversion of BN-800 to mox fuel is a long-awaited event for the nuclear industry. “For the first time in the history of the Russian nuclear power industry, we will be able to operate a fast neutron reactor with a full load of uranium-plutonium fuel and a closed nuclear fuel cycle. This is exactly the milestone for which the BN-800 was originally designed, a unique nuclear power unit supported by automated fuel production at the Mining and Chemical Combine. Advanced technologies for recycling nuclear materials will significantly expand the raw material base of nuclear energy by processing irradiated fuel instead of storing it, and it will also reduce the amount of waste generated.”  

Industrial fabrication of mox fuel began at the end of 2018 at the MCC. To create this unique production, broad industry cooperation was organised under the coordination and scientific leadership of TVEL, which also acts as the supplier of mox FAs for the Beloyarsk NPP. Initially, during the start-up of the BN-800 reactor, a hybrid core was installed, partly equipped with uranium fuel produced by Mashinostroitelny Zavod in Elektrostal (Moscow Region), and partly with experimental mox fuel assemblies manufactured at the Research Institute of Atomic Reactors in Dimitrovgrad, Ulyanovsk region.

Image: MOX fuel assemblies are loaded into the BN-800 fast reactor core at Beloyarsk NPP (courtesy of TVEL)

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Metallurgicheskii Zavod Electrostal AO (Russia)

In 1993 "Elektrostal" was transformed into an open joint stock company. The factory occupies a leading position among the manufacturers of high quality steel. The plant is a producer of high-temperature nickel alloys in a wide variety. It has a unique set of metallurgical equipment: open induction and arc furnaces, furnace steel processing unit, vacuum induction, vacuum- arc furnaces and others. The factory has implemented and certified quality management system ISO 9000, received international certificates for all products. Elektrostal today is a major supplier in Russia starting blanks for the production of blades, discs and rolls for gas turbine engines. Among them are companies in the aerospace industry, defense plants, and energy complex, automotive, mechanical engineering and instrument-making plants.

Headquarters Ulitsa Zheleznodorozhnaya, 1 Elektrostal; Moscow Oblast; Postal Code: 144002

Contact Details: Purchase the Metallurgicheskii Zavod Electrostal AO report to view the information.

Website: http://elsteel.ru

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