thule tour rack bagagedrager

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Thule are better known for roof racks, and in the bike world for their roof-, towball- and hatch-mounted bike carriers. They bought the design for the Pack 'n Pedal rack from New Zealand product design company Freeload and have developed a range of panniers around it, some of which we'll be reviewing over the next few weeks.

The rack is made from aluminium and glass-fiber reinforced polypropylene, assembled with stainless steel bolts. It comes with a selection of struts that should allow it to attach to virtually any bike. We used the shorter struts for a fairly standard road bike, and the medium-length ones to get the rack level on a smaller hybrid.

The very longest struts will likely work for the very low stays on some suspension mountain bikes, but we didn't try that. We'd be surprised if you can find a standard double diamond frame the Tour rack won't fit, though you might run into trouble if you're running tyres fatter than 2.5 inches wide. As this is a website mostly about road bikes, that shouldn't be a problem for most of you.

The ratchet strap attachment system works well - much better than you'd expect from looking at it. It really does provide a platform stable enough to hang up to 18kg of luggage off (25kg if you strap it on top).

To fit the rack, you thread each of the four straps through the mechanism and then tighten it up with the supplied 5mm ball-end Allen key. Thule also supplies a security release key to loosen the rack, so a passing low-life can't steal the rack. The key has an offset pin to release the ratchet mechanism, and as far as we can tell it's unique to the Pack 'n Pedal rack, so keep in somewhere safe.

The main selling point of this rack is its versatility and the only situation we found where it ran into trouble was fitting bikes with cables down the seat-stays like some cyclo-cross bikes. If that's your bike, try before you buy to make sure the cables and straps don't do battle.

The rack works best with Thule's own range of panniers. It is possible to use other panniers, but you might run into problems with the fatness of the tubes (Ortlieb), or the solid plastic platform that gets in the way of the hook release (Carradice). Thule sells a pair of side frames that allow you to use 'virtually any type of pannier' and that also have a second rail so you can mount the panniers nearer the ground for a lower center of gravity.

These will cost you another £25 on top of the £85 you've paid for the rack (£22.49 and £76.95 if you shop around). That's the same retail price as the stainless steel Tubus Cosmo. The Cosmo weighs 730g, against the 1420g of the Tour rack with side frames, and will carry twice as much. Tubus offer adapters to coax a rack on to a frame without eyelets too, though Thule's way of doing things is undeniably more elegant.

If you haven't got braze-ons, or your bike has some other awkwardness that makes fitting a regular rear rack difficult or impossible, the Thule Pack 'n Pedal Tour rack is a great way to carry luggage. It's well-made, the design is clever and it's surprisingly solid on the bike.

Having said that, it might be worth thinking about why your frame doesn't have braze-ons: it might not be designed to carry loads, and you might run into issues around stability under load and heel clearance. If you do have braze-ons, the Thule rack is still a viable option, but most regular four-bolt racks will be cheaper, weigh less and will be more stable.

It's a good solution for running a rack on a bike without braze-ons, though it's expensive and heavy.

road.cc test report

Make and model: Thule Pack 'n Pedal Tour Rack

Size tested: xx

Tell us what the product is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about it?

Our racks can be fitted on virtually any kind of bike. And our bags to any kind of rack. But needless to say, using our racks with our own bags is the best solution. With their combined number of smart solutions, you will get the best, safest and most comfortable ride - no matter what you're bringing.

Patented rack attachment system works on virtually any bicycle from full suspension mountain bikes to commuters and everything in between.

Tell us some more about the technical aspects of the product?

o Includes rails for mounting panniers.

o Patented attachment system secures easily.

o Works on the rear seat stays and front fork.

o Works with any type of frame material.

o Tough construction allows for variety of rugged riding uses.

o Silent and vibration free performance.

o Weight: 990 g

o Load capacity: 25 kg top/18 kg side

o Materials: Aluminium/Plastic

The aluminium and polypropylene components look well made and are assembled using stainless steel bolts.

Does the rack provide a sturdy platform that stays put and allows you to hang panniers off of it? Yes. Much better than you'd think from looking at it.

I have not had this rack for nearly long enough to comment on long-term durability through experience. Having said that, it's certainly well made and I would expect it to last you a long time, provided you keep all the bolts tightened.

There are lots of comments on the internet from people who question the durability of a 'plastic' the rack on longer tours. Mostly from people who haven't actually seen or used the rack. One review I read was from a lady who had used a Sport on the front and a Tour on the back for 5 months through the Andes and had no problems.

You don't get much change from a kilo, more than 150 grams heavier than the standard Blackburn EX2 (and twice as expensive). If you want to use non-Thule panniers, you'll need the sideframes which add another 430 grams.

Nothing particularly comfortable or uncomfortable about it.

At £85 RRP (£10 discounts can be found online), twice as expensive as the Blackburn EX2. About a tenner cheaper than the Tubus Logo rack. Significantly heavier than both, but more versatile. Bear in mind you'll more than likely need the optional sideframes (another £25) if you want to use non Thule Pack 'n Pedal panniers.

Tell us how the product performed overall when used for its designed purpose

It's a luggage rack and it does the things a luggage rack does. However, it's a shame there isn't a mounting point for a rear light and the full plastic platform construction on the top can make it difficult to release certain panniers. The Carradice C-hook system proved troublesome for me. The struts have a large diameter which rules out certain panniers, like the Ortlieb classic front pannier for example. The optional side frame (£25 RRP) may well sort some of these problems out - we're testing a set at the moment.

Tell us what you particularly liked about the product

I was pleasantly surprised how well it works.

Tell us what you particularly disliked about the product

Although it's billed to work with any pannier, that's not really the case without the sideframes.

Did you enjoy using the product? It worked well enough, but I didn't enjoy using it more or less than any other rack I've used.

Would you consider buying the product? No. Having used it, I'll go back to using a traditional rack. If I wanted to fit a rack to my mountain bike (which doesn't have braze-ons) though, I would definitely consider it.

Would you recommend the product to a friend? If they need to put a rack on a bike without the necessary braze-ons, then yes.

Anything further to say about the product in conclusion?

The rack works better than you'd expect from looking at it, but works best with the Pack 'n Pedal panniers. Try before you buy if you plan to use your own.

Overall rating: 7 /10

About the tester

Age: 36   Height: 1.78m   Weight: 76kg

I usually ride: All of them!   My best bike is: Cannondale CAAD10

I've been riding for: Over 20 years   I ride: Every day   I would class myself as: Expert

I regularly do the following types of riding: cyclo cross, commuting, touring, mtb,

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Here is the Thule pack and pedal pannier/rack system on a Cannondale 2014 CAAD8 105.

I am very surprised at the result. It took me hours of figuring out the ratchet system. But I sorted out the ratchet system it is and proves to be a very strong rack. The rubber oval cleat cushions the rack against your seat stays and this also prevents slippage. It is a good product and very clever.

image_1021.jpg

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I have tested myself this bike rack and I think that this 85 pounds is too much for what it offers. It looks good, the brand is there but lacks in enginering quality, bike racks priced so high shouldnt slip on the frame.

I experienced slippage also until I realised I wasn't mounting it properly. The oval rubbers are placed between the seat stays and the rack. The straps are fitted as follows. The instructions are not clear so it takes some working out.

1. Work out where the rack is best suited 2. Prepare oval ring and short end of strap to fit between the frame and the rachet system. 3. Once the ratchet system is resting on the oval rubber wrap the strap around the frame and then under the ratchet mechanism. 4. Take the rest of the strap and feed it through the ratchet system. 5. Use the hex key provided to tighten it. As you tighten it the long strap finds around the fitting and becomes shorter.

I struggled initially and took me hours to figure it out. If you need help don't ring Thule write to me and I offer you assistance.

image_1020.jpg

The problem with the Ortliebs I tried was that, without the side panels, the aluminium tube is too fat for the Ortlieb lower hook to go around it.

With the side panels (which I didn't have to test) I expect it's no problem at all.

Before I read the comment from bazzargh, I thought I had seen that before: http://innercitymobility.blogspot.de/2012/01/carrier-for-race-bike-free-...

Currently I use it on a steel frame but still use the textile tape as anti-slip.

I've got a set of these from Freeload (the NZ company who came up with them, before Thule bought them out) Couple more points:

- The front rack will not fit on a bike with canti brakes - the wire yoke of the brake will get in the way. Probably a consideration for anything other than discs, really

- unusual rear stay designs can also be a problem; if you don't have straight stays, you might not have a section to fit this on

- you should have a shake out ride before you set off; it's quite easy to have these set too loose, particularly if the straps get wet. Bring a ball-ended hex key, large enough to get some leverage. (ie not your multitool)

- my ortliebs fit this fine, not sure what the problem is there? (but yes you need the side panels for panniers)

- What I mainly use them for is bikepacking, ie light mtb touring offroad; I wasn't using panniers, but had strapped drybags on these front and rear. Rock solid, plenty of places to attach straps to. Weight not really an issue, my bags are much heavier than the racks.

oh dear, I have a few Thule products which, although not cheap, have proved their worth. But honestly, in excess of £100 for a rack setup on a bike not designed to carry those loads? Sounds like a failed entry from The Apprentice.

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Lowest Price Guarantee

Why We Like the Pack 'n Pedal Tour Rack

Modern bicycles with disc brakes and suspension need a different kind of mounting system when we're amping up to tour. Instead of eyelets, the Pack 'n Pedal Tour Rack by Thule uses ratcheting straps to securely wrap around seatstays and fork legs. Aluminum tubing keeps the weight low and it works with just about any bike for long-distance riding or commuting.

• Thule rack for touring on modern bicycles suspension, disc brakes
• Ratchet straps are utilized instead of eyelets for security
• Integrated reflector helps riders be seen
• Constructed from aluminum tubing to keep weight low
• Comes with rubber pads to protect frame finishes
• Features a 50lb maximum weight capacity for gear
• Item #THU0410

Overall Rating

3.5 based on 21 ratings

Review Summary

Fits true to size.

What do you think about this product?

March 20, 2024

Used Once - Don't Buy

Doesn't hold, slips down and wears down on brand new bike tyres as well as the under side of the plastic rack itself. I had to stop constantly to try and reposition it. The small rubber parts barely hold in place once the rack is off, and do not come with anything to store them in, subsequently one of them fell off when I took the rack off and I was unable to find where it went. Will never use again. Please do not buy this it ruined my weekend for myself and for my friends.

Originally reviewed on manufacturer

September 21, 2023

Not Thule Quality

The good- Cool design and you are able to adjust to about any configuration. Relatively simple, but it mounts easily. The bad- The rack doesn't stay in place. Maybe because I'm using this on a road bike with smaller seat stays? I've had to use gorilla tape on my seat stay to create a bench for the rack attachment points to sit on to keep the rack from sliding down. I'm not even loading much into the pannier. Which is the other problem, twice the Thule Shield pannier went into my rear spokes brining me to an immediate stop. There's nothing to keep the bag from swinging into the spokes when you get a decent bump. Just not a great design.

July 5, 2023

The rack works great for a full float mt bike. I bit tight at the wheel for a 29r with a fender

May 11, 2023

Great bike rack

I like how ressitant and light my pack and pedal rack is

October 14, 2022

New Bike Tour Rack

I have been using this new rack for several weeks and I must say I am definitely impressed. My new bike came without any front braze-ons so needing a front rack, I did not know what I was going to do.. The design is ingenious, Fits perfectly.I check it often before rides and it stays stable and secure. Thank you Thule.

September 27, 2022

Looks good and it works as well

Light weight and sleek. The previous rack I had was very wide so this is a nice change. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy the installation was. Now I have a complete kit with the two Thule saddle bags that I already had.

August 29, 2022

A Super Trifecta Solution For Dirt Bike Riders

This Thule solution to carry bags and baskets is a sure winner in my books. I have a Surron Light Bee X Dirt Bike which I plan to use to make deliveries by where I live. I will note that I did have to remove my front fender in order for this work but that doesn’t bother me as I have tried to make the bike look as little as possible as a Dirt Bike considering regulations by where I live. However if your looking for a solution for carrying bags with your dirt bike- than look no further as this is it. I’ll be honest I did my research and there’s not many choices that work with Dirt Bikes as the manufacturers don’t make or market them for Dirt Bike riders. I am grateful to Thule for making a solution that works hands down the best in carrying bags and packages.

March 30, 2022

Rack is a nightmare to take on and off. Lost straps because it’s hard to set up the correctly and no spare parts are available. I’d avoid unless this is your last and only solution.

July 10, 2021

Texas to California with No Issues

I bought two of these Racks and two sets of the Thule Shield Panniers for my Houston to Sacramento BikePacking trip. The installation was not "Easy" due to the infinitely adjustability of the racks. But after adjusting, they were both sitting perfectly level and balanced. Along the way I removed the racks so that I could ride some trails. The removal and remounting was very easy since the adjustments had already been set. I had 30-35 pounds on each rack and I never had issues with the racks sliding or slipping. I would recommend this rack for anyone who wants a solid rack that is well worth the investment.

June 22, 2021

tough installation

I won't recommend it because the installation is maddeningly complex.

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Commuting accessories, thule pack’n’pedal tour bicycle rack review.

The Thule Pack’n’Pedal Tour Rack promises to solve many of the fit issues surrounding pannier racks. Thule say it can be adapted to fit on any bike, including full-suspension mountain bikes, it doesn’t need the mounting holes on a bike frame to bolt into, and that it’s easy to remove.

Does it live up to these promises? In short, yes. So long as you attach it properly, as I learned!

I’ve had several long tests with this set up. I’ve popped it on my full sus MTB, I’ve moved it to my road bike, I’ve ridden with just the rack, and I’ve cycled to work over several weeks with it fully loaded with pannier bags. I’ve had a few false starts and wobbly moments, but now I love it.

When you open the box and unpack the bits for the Pack’n’Pedal rack, you’ll find the aluminium and plastic frame and plastic top of the rack itself, a selection of 3 different lengths metal struts, and some tools. Don’t loose any of this stuff, as you’ll definitely need these in the future! I had a 2am mission turning my room upside down to find one of the little tools – not fun.

The rack fixes to the bike at the seat stays, using fabric straps that are tightened and secured by a ratchet system. You use the different lengths of strut supplied with the rack to adapt it to different bikes – for example, I used the longest strut on my MTB, and the shortest on my road bike. Choose the one that allows the top of the rack to sit parallel to the ground when it’s attached.

Installation was fairly easy – the instructions were logical to follow, and you can kind of work out what to do by looking at the rack and a picture of what it’s supposed to look like afterwards, which is my usual method but not recommended.

The slightly tricky elements included getting the rack level, and doing the straps on the seat stays up tight enough.

You can position the height of the rack by loosely fitting it to the seat stays, then sliding each side up and down until it’s level, then tightening them fully. I opted to tighten the lowest strap on each side first, making sure they were in the right position, and then doing the other straps up.

Tightening the straps enough is critical, and I didn’t do it tight enough the first few times. I know this because halfway along a route on my MTB the rack and pannier slid over to one side. I popped it back into position, tightened it up and set off again. A similar thing occurred with the rack on my road bike; en route, with it fully laden with pannier bags, it slid down the seat stays until the top of the rack was rubbing on the back wheel, a bit like a brake. I managed to wrestle it back up again. It’s worth making sure you have the 5mm Allen key with you for this purpose.

Thule say that the straps should be tightened to 15 newtons, which would require a torque wrench – something I don’t own. I was overly cautious about how much I should be tightening the straps, and hence encountered the problems above.

I subsequently tightened them as much as I could by hand, and since then I’ve had no further problems, even with a lot of gear on the back. I’d recommend making really sure they’re well done up, ideally using a torque wrench if you can get hold of one.

The rack itself isn’t the lightest, weighing in at 942grams, but since I was planning on putting some heavy bags on the back in any case this wasn’t really a problem for me. I went out for a few longer rides on the road bike with the rack but without loads, and I didn’t notice it was there at all.

Being able to move this rack between different bikes is amazing. It’s not incredibly quick to do, and little bit of a faff, but that you can do it at all is a great innovation. It’s brilliant to be able to use panniers on my road bike, which doesn’t have the usual mounting holes, so I can use it for commuting and a little touring. I’ve also got plans for some MTB touring and camping, and having a rack that I can mount on a full sus makes this easier.

It’s worth putting down a few words on taking the rack back off again; I was stumped on this one for a while. You need both the little blue key tool and the 5mm Allen key that are supplied with the rack. The blue key needs to be pushed and held into a small hole above the catch to disengage the ratchet mechanism, and you use the Allen key to unwind the strap – see the picture to work out the right hole. It’s a bit fiddly, but once you’ve worked out it’s no problem.

On the mountain bike, I did initially catch my heel on one of the bags when pedalling. Then I realised that you can adjust the rack by pulling the rods where the bag attaches out further back – problem solved.

Another advantage of this rack is the load it can carry; 25kg on the top or 18kg on the sides. This is comparable to most bolt on racks, and a lot more than the quick-release racks that clamp onto seat posts, which usually carry in the region of 9kg.

I loaded mine with two pannier bags (which was much better for balance on the road bike!) with laptop, change of clothes, makeup and wash bag, notepad, etc. etc. and (once the straps were done up tight enough) I had no problems with weight. I didn’t notice any side-to-side motion, and the load felt very stable.

Thule also produce a ‘sport’ version that doesn’t have side rods for panniers and is lighter weight, and there’s a selection of compatible bags in the Pack’n’Pedal range, which will be reviewed soon.

Whether you’re commuting or planning a trip or tour, the Pack’n’Pedal rack adds versatility without compromising on weight bearing capability, stability, or robustness. Having a sturdy rack that can carry significant weight for bikes that normally can’t take one is great; having a rack that can be switched between lots of different bikes relatively easily is even better. There is a price to be paid for this, and this rack (and the complementing pannier bags) are at the premium end of the price range.

–       Can fit bikes with no rack mount holes –       Can fit on full suspension MTBs and bikes with disc brakes –       Strong and stable

–       Fitting (and tightening straps enough) is slightly fiddly –       Requires specific tools (supplied, and replaceable)

Price: £84.99 More info: Thule Available from: Madison , Leisure Lakes Bike s

What Thule say about the Pack’n’Pedal Tour Rack:

Patented rack attachment system works on virtually any bicycle from full suspension mountain bikes to commuters and everything in between.

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Thule Pack 'n' Pedal Tour Rack

Thule Thule Pack 'n' Pedal Tour Rack

Out of stock

Details / Thule Pack 'n' Pedal Tour Rack

• Maximum Wheel Size (in) :  29
• Requires Eyelets:  No
• Disc Brake Compatible:  Yes
• Weight Limit (lbs):  22 front lbs
• Weight:  2..4 g
• Material:  Nylon, Steel, Aluminum

More Information

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While Out Riding

Dirt road cycling adventures across the americas and beyond, review: thule pack ‘n pedal.

I’m still in Huaraz, craving to get back on the road… Unfortunately though, the pain in my back has flared up, so I’m having to delay longer. In the meantime, here’s one of a few reviews I’d intended to post before setting of to Peru.

Disclosure: I was sent this Pack ‘n Pedal rack and pannier by Thule via  Bike Bag Shop (of which I’m affiliate) to try out. Generally I request gear I’m eager to take away travelling, or I try and finagle a discount, or end up buying it at full retail. But the guys at Bike Bag Shop thought it would be right up my street, so sent a set to Santa Fe for me to try out. 

And it’s true, I’ve long been interested in these racks – back when they were called Freeload and based out of New Zealand, before the design was acquired by car rack giants Thule (who, incidentally, own Chariot trailers too). Nowadays, I tend to see lightweight framebags and softbags as ideal for mountain bike touring – but there are times when the capacity of racks and panniers are better suited to the job at hand.

Versatility

So what’s the big deal with Thule’s gear? Well, the main appeal is that one rack provides an adaptable solution for all manner of styles and materials – from full suspension to carbon, 26in or 29in – and of any frame size too. The same rack can even be fitted at the front or back. As such, it can be moved from bike to bike with relative ease – making the system an appealing gateway into touring and commuting. Clearances are very good, though unfortunately a touch too tight for my 29+ Krampus – and hence a fat bike too.

As with any system that offers such versatility, there’s bound to be compromises. In terms of stability, the racks are considerably better than you might expect. But although the nifty ratchet system cranks down tight, there’s still more side to side play then there would be with a traditional triangulated rack attached with bolts. To handle the quoted 25kg top load capacity, they’re supposed to be tightened down to 15 Nm, but seeing as I don’t have a torque wrench, I just cranked them down as tight as the hex key would let me go – and the rack felt relatively stable. I expect there’d be some scuffing of paint over time, but details like that have never bothered – it’s the same with framebags.

As for panniers, there’s  a whole range  on offer – geared towards touring and commuting – I particularly liked the look of the  Tote Bag  for shopping. As it was, I tried a Small Adventure Touring Pannier (16L), sold singly. Compared to the competition, price and weight are definitely up there. At $100 and 2.3lb (1043g) a piece, these are neither light nor cheap panniers in any way. By comparison, the equivalent Ortliebs ( Front Roller Plus ) weighs 1140g for a pair, and cost $153 for two. Still, some nifty features help offset those extra grams and dollars, which are explained below.

Incidentally, there are two versions of the rack – the Tour and Sport . I tried the Tour ($100, 1kg), which includes rails for mounting panniers. The Sport ($90, 0.8kg) is effectively a platform for cinching on a roll bag or similar – without the rails, it’s also 200g lighter. The Sport may well be the better option for bikepacking.

The Thule Tour Rack some with struts of differing lengths, suiting different frame styles and sizes – or whether it’s run at the front or the back.

The ratchet system uses a ball ended allen key to clamp it down nice and tight. The supplied key (don’t loose it!) releases the spring, and allows the straps to then be unwound. After some time being attached to my frame, the rack took a little jiggling around to remove it – but as long as you don’t lose the precious key that releases the ratchet mechanisms, it comes off eventually.

Do not misplace. Tools needed to fit (and remove) the pannier.

Particularly nifty is the mounting system…

… which flips away like a secret door… It makes carrying the pannier, with the supplied strap, a lot more comfortable. My only real qualm is the extra weight for touring.

As well as the length of the struts, their position can also be adjusted, so the rack sits parallel to the ground, whatever frame you’re running. Despite all the plastic, I’ve not experienced any rigidity issues with moderate loads, even on dirt roads. Note: clearances are too tight for a 3in tyre, but ample for anything else.

The top deck has loads of slots for strapping on bits and pieces.

A strong magnet attached to each side of the rack, holding the pannier in place. In use, it’s proved sufficiently tenacious.

Elegant. The panniers are very easy to mount, snapping into place with the magnet – which is strong enough to hold them in place over most terrain. And neatly, even if the panniers do flap around, they soon snap back into position. Note though that the attachment system sits well below the top of the pannier, making it awkward to run a roll bag across them, as many tourers like to do. My time has been fairly limited with the system, and given that I only had one pannier to play with, loading capacity has been a touch one-side too – though with one of the extra side frames , I could have balanced it out with a standard pannier.

Thule calls the pannier material waterproof but also offers optional covers. I’ve not had the opportunity to ride with them in prolonged rain, but I take existence of covers to mean the panniers aren’t monsoon proof – and that water will eventually soak its way through.On the plus side, this means they’re breathable – and gear is less likely to get stinky inside. However, it also means you’ll need the extra raincovers in the event of a prolonged downpour, especially if you’re carrying the likes of a laptop – in which case, expect to fork out an additional $15 per pannier. And while the roll top closure works nicely when the bag is packed, it does have a tendency to unfurl when it’s half full.

The panniers are very nicely made. The Adventure (Small) has a cross strap to cinch it in, but it’s devoid of any inner or outer compartments. What it does feature, however, is a side pouch designed for an LED, allowing the light to shine through. Although the sleeve muffles the light a little, it’s a nice idea – perhaps a slightly clearer material would be better though.

Versatility: the name of the game

So what’s my overall take on the system? All in, it’s a pretty techy setup, and I have to admit to being a little sceptical initially about stiffness and durability – given all the plastic. But it’s definitely grown on me, and there’s some neat ideas for sure.

As far as I can see, it’s a cargo-carrying solution that’s best suited to commuting and general, mid-weight touring – dirt roads included.

Really, the strength of the Pack ‘n Pedal in its versatility. Lash on a rollbag. Use panniers. Move it from your road frame to your suspension rig. Swap it from a 26in bike to a 29er. Fit it to a friend’s smaller bike. And, although I see it being of greater benefit to commuters than tourers, I like the fact that Thule are striving to create a practical solution off the bike – the fold-away pannier mounts are really nicely executed. I would, however, prefer these panniers to be 100% waterproof, given the roll top closure – and their price tag.

With the advent of ultralight soft framebags and matching seat and rollbags, a lot of mountain bikers might find a rackless setup is a better way to go for lightweight, mountain bike touring. But if you do want the extra space of a more traditional setup on your full suspension rig, then the Pack ‘n Pedal racks and panniers are certainly one way of doing it. For multi-month endeavours, I’d still stick with a more specific chromoly rack system though, assuming you’re riding a bike that’s designed for the task at hand.

Normally, I strive to take gear away on a trip before writing about it, but this wasn’t possible with the Pack ‘n Pedal – partly because I only had one pannier to play with, and also because I only had a couple of months to use it. If you have any longterm, hands-on experience with this system, please post your thoughts below. And if you have any questions, let me know! 

There’s some interesting feedback here , of a more extreme nature. But it sounds like there may have been some user error involved too.

35 thoughts on “ Review: Thule Pack ‘n Pedal ”

What a great article you have written. I can concur that the waterproof material needs a bit more clarity. From one of the conversations I can remember I had a couple of months ago with Thule they mentioned that the materials have ratings and I think they where 4+ different ones. They previously used 3 where if applicable the zippers being 4. And with this new material it would be rated 2. Which is the second most waterproof material technology could provide while being breathable. Gore-Tex being number 1.

Hi, great review, thanks. I’m just finishing a 5 months trip through the Andes of Southamerica and have been using a Sport version on the front and a Tour version on the back, together with Ortlieb panniers (I do carry some weight unfortunately as I’m traveling solo. I admire your lightweight approach…something to aspire to) I would consider them stronger than the traditional racks cyclists use as I had no problem with their strength and have been on many dirt roads and some very bad road too, while other cyclists seem to have quite some issues with their racks breaking. I used the Sport version only on a trip a couple of years ago in Patagonia and was convinced of its strength than, when I had no problems while other cyclists seemed to have issues with breaking racks on the carretera austral quite regularly. Or maybe I’m just lucky:)

Thanks for the longterm feedback Nina, much appreciated. Seems the Thule racks served you really well. My only concern was the side to side slight flex I could feel, compared to my Tubus racks. But it doesn’t sound like that was an issue for you at all. If you have a link you can send me to your bike, I’d love to see it.

Hi Nina & Cass, until now I have used my Ortlieb Bike Packer Plus on a conventional rack on a hardtail bike. For my next off-road trip in the South-west of Australia I would like to take my dual-suspension bike but keep the panniers because they are simply great: 100% waterproof, easy to handle and I can fit in heaps. I would like to use the Pack’n’Pedal on the rear. So these are my questions: 1. Is the Quicklock system compatible with the rather thick bars on each side of the rack? 2. Will the bags swing very much when riding on rocky terrain? 3. Did you use a side frame with your Ortlieb panniers? Thank you!

Hi Jessica, My brother & I have both used the original Freeload Rack (before they were re branded Thule) 3 times on the Munda Biddi Trail (1000 km of off road trails) in Western Australia. In that time we only had one incident with the rack, my brother picked up a thick stick that destroyed the rear derailleur & damaged one of the plastic holding brackets, we fixed it using cable ties & continued the extra 400 km to the end. No real side to side swivel from the rack, you may need to retention after a day or two & make sure you Loctite all the stainless bolts on the rack otherwise you will loose them. I used Ortlieb bags with the optional rack side pannier supports. No problems mounting them. I did modify the lower plastic swivel holder on the bottom of the bags, replacing the holding finger with an aluminium one (far less flex & stops the pannier jumping off). Rack mounted on rear of 2004 Cannondale Jekyll & 2015 Giant Anthem. The last time we did the Munda Biddi was August 2016, highest recorded rainfall for 50 years! While the Ortliebs are waterproof make sure you have lightweight waterproof sacks for packing sleepinging bag & clothes just in case.

I found this rack to be less flexible between bikes as I was hoping primarily due to cable routing/mounts on the top of the seat stays of one of my bikes (disc brake line and derailleur cable). To fit with existing cable routing would require abandoning the cable mounting points to give enough room for the rack to wrap the stays where the lines ran. This lead me to take one bike not so well suited on an extended gravel route vs. the intended bike. It also did leave some permanent paint scuffs after 75miles of gravel riding as cautioned in this review. Makes for an excellent front rack on suspension forks as well as carbon cross/road forks as well as Surly cross-check/long haul trucker forks. I intended to avoid the cost of frame bags and have a gear platform to suit several of my bikes for prolonged touring. Although this rack seems best to replace a front roll type frame bag, which should also be as flexible between bikes, and lighter. Sigh.

Thanks for the input Eric. As you mention, I can see the racks being particularly well suited to front suspension forks, for sure.

As you say, framebag-style gear is considerably lighter, and easily transferable from bike to bike too, for the most part (sometimes drop handlebars, or a short seat post can be an issue). I do find soft bags need some TLC though, to make sure there’s no cable rub or similar.

I tried a set of these but ended up having to return them as a) they didn’t fit my bike due to the spacing of the cable stops (the rack sat crooked), and b) I found that my Ortleib panniers kept swinging into the spokes. I could have spent another $70 on the extra side frame, but was a bit cheesed off when the retailer told me that these racks were only really designed for the Thule panniers and that I could hardly expect them to work with anything else.

Pingback: A rack when you need it | Trails and Tours

Hello Mate, just clocking your site again and noticed this rack chat. I’ve used one for several short trips and it is best to say that it’s perfect function is on suss-forks. The Salsa rigid, taper type fork is also fine as long as you keep the bottom tension strap hard up against the brake boss before tensioning the system….to prevent it sliding down. Pretty versatile rack I guess if you only want one rack to suit several frames. Have a jolly down south. Peter

Hi Cass, Is there any risk of damaging the carbon frame of my Canondale Flesh carbon bike with the Thule Pack and Pedal Sport Rack? Thanks for your attention and hints. Marcos

Marcos, no issue with carbon frames or forks. But, pay attention on fitting and it will work wonderfully well. I’ve used mine on White Brothers carbon forks with no problem as the type of carbon used for the fork legs is relatively thick. Make sure you do not over tighten the support straps as they can produce intense pressure on their small fixing footprint. Beware of paper thin seat stays. Check that the rack is secure enough to support your panniers or cargo weight and nip up the strap tension to suit. Contrary to popular belief, this rack is not designed to take elephantine loads, so pack accordingly. Ciao.

I’ve been commuting here in Detroit with the touring rack/commuter bag combo on my Specialized Hot Rock for a month now, and so far I’m not at all impressed with this system.

Both racks were installed by Thule trained bike mechanics at my local bike shop.

The first rack broke at the plastic strap ratcheting fixture while I was trying to snug up the straps because the rack kept slipping down and rubbing on the tire. The load I carry is light; a fleece shirt and my lunch. But it couldn’t handle even that.

The second rack slides down as well.

I’ll keep fussing with it to try and make it reliable, but I’ll probably end up putting it on the front and install a traditional bolt-on rack in back.

Update: Good news!

Last month I bought a new commuter bike, a Trek DS 8.5, and installed my Thule rack on it. No more slipping! The rack stays firmly in place, even while bombing through snow and over snow drifts to and from work every day.

I don’t know if it no longer slips because I installed it better than my bike mechanic or because my new bike’s geometry is better for the rack.

In any case, now I’m happy with the rack. I even bought a second touring rack for the front.

Do you have a picture of it on the DS8.5? I’m picking my new 8.5 up today and am curious about fitment. Thank you

Hi Steve, I threw together a quick post with a few pictures here at DetroitConservationCafe.com. The blog is currently just a rough draft of project I’m working on, but bike commuting in Metro Detroit will eventually be a regular topic.

The touring rack fits great on the DS 8.5, I even have a touring rack for the front. I ride with the Thule commuter pannier most of the time, and I had to buy the little rail extenders (only $10.00 for the set) so I could push the bag all the way back, otherwise my heel kept hitting the bag, and I have a relatively small foot for a guy.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the help. I installed my rack this past Friday. Tomorrow will be my first chance to commute to work. It’s 8.5mi each way 40% nasty dirt/limestone road and 60% pavement. I don’t have the panniers yet. I’ll be rolling with a kayaking dry sack strapped to the top until I need more space.

Saw your pictures of your rack on your website, thanks for posting those. I’m looking to set my bike up similarly with the pack n pedal rack with similar bag from thule. I was looking at the reviews on various online stores (amazon, REI, etc) and noticed on amazon that there was one that said his mounting hardware completely failed after 2-3 months. How long have you been using the pannier and how is it holding up? Thanks!

After a year of using the rack, the commuter pannier and the trunk for my daily commuting, I can honestly say that the only thing special about this system is the mounting mechanism on the panniers. Everything else you would do far better with other brands. The caveat being that another rack will fit on your bike.

Here are my issues with the system.

The Rear Touring Rack

The rack itself is $100.00. But you will need the rail extenders or else your heels will kick your panniers, so that’s $10.00. Then you will need the plastic side frames to hold the panniers in place, that’s $20.00. Then you will need the magnet to keep the pannier from slapping against the frame when you go over the slightest bump, $20.00. So really, the rack’s actual cost is $150.00. The plastic housings on the strap ratcheting device break easily. The friction they provide is not really enough to keep the rack from sliding down the tube, so it will slide.

This $79.00 trunk is like a Volvo — boxy, but safe. Sort of. You can put a bunch of crap in it and the Velcro straps that hold it down are great. The plastic, opaque pouch that’s designed to hold your rear blinky light, is excellent at ejecting said blinky light out of the pouch and into the street. I’d lost two $45.00 LED rear lights out of it before I wizened up. Besides, the pouch is smoky colored, and it significantly reduces your light’s illumination. Great for the quiet bike paths of Amsterdam, but lousy for the psychos driving American roads who’d rather text than watch the road. Then there is the flooding problem. Yes, flooding. If you get caught in a storm without your trunk’s waterproof cover (sold separately), then you will find about an inch of water in the bottom after a few minutes. That nifty open pocket they put on the side, the one large enough to hold a stick of gum, or the blinky light holder, funnel water right into the trunk. So don’t be fooled by the impressive, dry bag style roll top, because it’s just for show.

The best thing about the whole system is the mounting mechanism that rolls back into the bag for a smooth sided pannier that won’t snag your clothes. It really is a nifty system. My bag is installed and removed around six times a day, five days a week for over a year, and it still keeps on working fine.

My advice is to buy a $30.00 rack from your LBS, and then buy the commuter pannier. You’ll save a bunch of money and frustration that way.

Finally, my new commuting bike is a 2012 Surly, Pugsley, Neck Romancer fat bike. I put a Surly Nice Rack on it and will keep the Thule commuter bag. The rest of the Pack n Pedal system I’m selling along with my previous commuter bike, the 2014 Trek Dual Sport 8.5.

Whew. There, I feel better getting all that out!

Looks like the ideal solution to my wife’s 29er – being 5’7″ it is a tiny 13″ frame and she has a Thudbuster seatpost precluding a seat bag or traditional rack (unless it had 4foot stays at the top!)

This would strap on out the way of the seatpost, and avoiding the disc caliper allowing a 15L dry bag to strap on the top and not hit the seatpost.

Maybe a fatbike version could be offered with just a wider deck? Either Thule or an aftermarket / home made?

Thanks for the ongoing comments and feedback on these racks. It’s always good to hear other people’s input.

I didn’t have any slippage issues myself, but it did take a bit of practise to get the right technique. The guys at Thule said there shouldn’t be any issues with carbon frames.

I just noticed these today while online. I plan the install on a Trek Madone 3.1 [carbon frame]. like anything else… finesse is the key when installing anything onto carbon. MY QUESTION? Does anyone know when & where I can find & purchase the Thule trunk bag for this rack? They are Not readily available as of 3-5-14… Please advise…

Trying to find out of these racks have enough clearance to fit my full suspension Specialized Camber 29r – is it tall enough? Thule is giving me differing answers, and it’s an expensive purchase…

I have the rack installed. Anyway to post pics on this thread?

Not sure that there is with WordPress. Sorry!

Hey Brad, how’d it go installing it on the carbon frame? Thinking of doing the same, but concerned about crushing the seat stays (Madone as well). Any slippage of the rack on the stays? Were you able to cinch the straps down tight enough?

Works great. Adds a buttload of weight on back of bike. Once you torque all 4 ratchet connectors maybe 1-2 clicks, all 4 will hold rack in place. Bag straps on great. Email me [email protected] I’ll send you pics.

Just a follow up on a question that I had earlier. We went ahead and purchased two of these systems mostly because we had no other choice-I am riding a full suspension 29r , and my husband has a full carbon hardtail mountain bike but we wanted to put panniers on them, so this was our only option. There is definitely some tweaking involved. On my husband’s carbon mountain bike of the weight of the panniers definitely let the whole system slip down until the part over the tire was rubbing the tire. Not a great way to start the trip and we had to unload, loosen, move up, and then really crank on the straps to keep everything in place. We are still not sure that we will not eventually do some damage with as tightly as we have this rack mounted on those stays. On my bike my stays are so low and horizontal that I have very little tire clearance as well and have to slide the rack much closer to my seat than I would like. This means that I occasionally have some heel strike although I just saw that I can buy some extenders. One other issue that we did not take into account during purchase was weight-the system is incredibly heavy. I can hardly pick my bike up when fully loaded (I can pedal it, but have lots of trouble just maneuvering it around by hand and/or finding something substantial enough to lean it against so it does not knock things over!) Maybe this is a part of self-supported touring that I am just not used to 🙂 Overall, the system seems to be working okay-our longest trip so far was a three-day journey on some singletrack but mostly dirt roads; we leave tomorrow for a 12 day tour on the Lewis and Clark Trail. Keeping our fingers crossed that everything stays put and all goes well.

They do indeed fit different bikes “differently” I have not loaded as much as you and have had no slippage or movement. I had mine on my road bike for a few months, thought it was always going to be attached… I have had mine off since May of this year… I will use it again if I go on a long ride… So, since I own it, i”ll keep it, use it if needed… right now its on a basement shelf, filled with bike parts…

Do you know if the Side Frames are needed to add the Ortlieb Front and Back rollers to the touring rack?

I believe so.

Greg, you definitely want the side frams as well as the small rail extenders that screw into the top rail. The rail extenders only cost about $10.00.

I’ve been using my Pack n’ Pedal racks five days a week for commuting for over a year now, and I’m pretty happy with them. However, they are not better than a solid rack by any means, at least for touring. I’ll be buying the Ortleibs as well for light touring.

I’ve bought mine 5 years ago (freeload) together with the side frames. Firs I used them in the rear of my fully, next as front system on my 29er, and I just mounted it in the rear of my eBike. I use Vaude bags on both sides, from day commuting to monthlong trips all over Europe. All I can say is that this system is absolutely perfect. Whatever I want to transport can be transported (including a broken bike of my 6-year old son while on tour), with the plate design it even keeps dirt away from me, and I really love it!!! Regarding the key for dismounting: if lost, use a small-blade skrewdriver. Take a good light and look inside, and you’ll see what you have to push sideways. Only thing I fear here in Germany is that it might be stolen one day…….

I have this rack, but went through the trouble to order it from new zealand.

We did ~215 miles over 7 days in the san juan hut to hut trip. 2 bikes. 2 racks, rear mounted. Never a wiggle/wobble/rattle/squeak/etc.

I plan to purchase a Specialized Sirrus Elite Carbon Disc. It does not come with screw holes near the seat to add a normal rack. Can anyone comment on weather this rack would be a good fit for this carbon bike? Thanks in advance for your input.

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Gagarin Cup Preview: Atlant vs. Salavat Yulaev

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Gagarin cup (khl) finals:  atlant moscow oblast vs. salavat yulaev ufa.

Much like the Elitserien Finals, we have a bit of an offense vs. defense match-up in this league Final.  While Ufa let their star top line of Alexander Radulov, Patrick Thoresen and Igor Grigorenko loose on the KHL's Western Conference, Mytischi played a more conservative style, relying on veterans such as former NHLers Jan Bulis, Oleg Petrov, and Jaroslav Obsut.  Just reaching the Finals is a testament to Atlant's disciplined style of play, as they had to knock off much more high profile teams from Yaroslavl and St. Petersburg to do so.  But while they did finish 8th in the league in points, they haven't seen the likes of Ufa, who finished 2nd. 

This series will be a challenge for the underdog, because unlike some of the other KHL teams, Ufa's top players are generally younger and in their prime.  Only Proshkin amongst regular blueliners is over 30, with the work being shared by Kirill Koltsov (28), Andrei Kuteikin (26), Miroslav Blatak (28), Maxim Kondratiev (28) and Dmitri Kalinin (30).  Oleg Tverdovsky hasn't played a lot in the playoffs to date.  Up front, while led by a fairly young top line (24-27), Ufa does have a lot of veterans in support roles:  Vyacheslav Kozlov , Viktor Kozlov , Vladimir Antipov, Sergei Zinovyev and Petr Schastlivy are all over 30.  In fact, the names of all their forwards are familiar to international and NHL fans:  Robert Nilsson , Alexander Svitov, Oleg Saprykin and Jakub Klepis round out the group, all former NHL players.

For Atlant, their veteran roster, with only one of their top six D under the age of 30 (and no top forwards under 30, either), this might be their one shot at a championship.  The team has never won either a Russian Superleague title or the Gagarin Cup, and for players like former NHLer Oleg Petrov, this is probably the last shot at the KHL's top prize.  The team got three extra days rest by winning their Conference Final in six games, and they probably needed to use it.  Atlant does have younger regulars on their roster, but they generally only play a few shifts per game, if that. 

The low event style of game for Atlant probably suits them well, but I don't know how they can manage to keep up against Ufa's speed, skill, and depth.  There is no advantage to be seen in goal, with Erik Ersberg and Konstantin Barulin posting almost identical numbers, and even in terms of recent playoff experience Ufa has them beat.  Luckily for Atlant, Ufa isn't that far away from the Moscow region, so travel shouldn't play a major role. 

I'm predicting that Ufa, winners of the last Superleague title back in 2008, will become the second team to win the Gagarin Cup, and will prevail in five games.  They have a seriously well built team that would honestly compete in the NHL.  They represent the potential of the league, while Atlant represents closer to the reality, as a team full of players who played themselves out of the NHL. 

• Atlant @ Ufa, Friday Apr 8 (3:00 PM CET/10:00 PM EST)
• Atlant @ Ufa, Sunday Apr 10 (1:00 PM CET/8:00 AM EST)
• Ufa @ Atlant, Tuesday Apr 12 (5:30 PM CET/12:30 PM EST)
• Ufa @ Atlant, Thursday Apr 14 (5:30 PM CET/12:30 PM EST)

Games 5-7 are as yet unscheduled, but every second day is the KHL standard, so expect Game 5 to be on Saturday, like an early start. 

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Out of the Centre

Savvino-storozhevsky monastery and museum.

Zvenigorod's most famous sight is the Savvino-Storozhevsky Monastery, which was founded in 1398 by the monk Savva from the Troitse-Sergieva Lavra, at the invitation and with the support of Prince Yury Dmitrievich of Zvenigorod. Savva was later canonised as St Sabbas (Savva) of Storozhev. The monastery late flourished under the reign of Tsar Alexis, who chose the monastery as his family church and often went on pilgrimage there and made lots of donations to it. Most of the monastery’s buildings date from this time. The monastery is heavily fortified with thick walls and six towers, the most impressive of which is the Krasny Tower which also serves as the eastern entrance. The monastery was closed in 1918 and only reopened in 1995. In 1998 Patriarch Alexius II took part in a service to return the relics of St Sabbas to the monastery. Today the monastery has the status of a stauropegic monastery, which is second in status to a lavra. In addition to being a working monastery, it also holds the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum.

Belfry and Neighbouring Churches

Located near the main entrance is the monastery's belfry which is perhaps the calling card of the monastery due to its uniqueness. It was built in the 1650s and the St Sergius of Radonezh’s Church was opened on the middle tier in the mid-17th century, although it was originally dedicated to the Trinity. The belfry's 35-tonne Great Bladgovestny Bell fell in 1941 and was only restored and returned in 2003. Attached to the belfry is a large refectory and the Transfiguration Church, both of which were built on the orders of Tsar Alexis in the 1650s.  

To the left of the belfry is another, smaller, refectory which is attached to the Trinity Gate-Church, which was also constructed in the 1650s on the orders of Tsar Alexis who made it his own family church. The church is elaborately decorated with colourful trims and underneath the archway is a beautiful 19th century fresco.

Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is the oldest building in the monastery and among the oldest buildings in the Moscow Region. It was built between 1404 and 1405 during the lifetime of St Sabbas and using the funds of Prince Yury of Zvenigorod. The white-stone cathedral is a standard four-pillar design with a single golden dome. After the death of St Sabbas he was interred in the cathedral and a new altar dedicated to him was added.

Under the reign of Tsar Alexis the cathedral was decorated with frescoes by Stepan Ryazanets, some of which remain today. Tsar Alexis also presented the cathedral with a five-tier iconostasis, the top row of icons have been preserved.

Tsaritsa's Chambers

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is located between the Tsaritsa's Chambers of the left and the Palace of Tsar Alexis on the right. The Tsaritsa's Chambers were built in the mid-17th century for the wife of Tsar Alexey - Tsaritsa Maria Ilinichna Miloskavskaya. The design of the building is influenced by the ancient Russian architectural style. Is prettier than the Tsar's chambers opposite, being red in colour with elaborately decorated window frames and entrance.

At present the Tsaritsa's Chambers houses the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum. Among its displays is an accurate recreation of the interior of a noble lady's chambers including furniture, decorations and a decorated tiled oven, and an exhibition on the history of Zvenigorod and the monastery.

Palace of Tsar Alexis

The Palace of Tsar Alexis was built in the 1650s and is now one of the best surviving examples of non-religious architecture of that era. It was built especially for Tsar Alexis who often visited the monastery on religious pilgrimages. Its most striking feature is its pretty row of nine chimney spouts which resemble towers.

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