walking tours of harlem new york

Welcome to Harlem Walks.com

Specialized walking tours of various neighborhoods within harlem and beyond .

Led by Leigh Hallingby.

Leigh was a very lovely lady with a passion for architecture and the arts, which was transferred to us through our tour.

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Historic Harlem Walking Tour

Emphasizing the harlem renaissance, this guided walking tour looks at the history, architecture & people of this remarkable neighborhood..

Harlem is the center of African American history and culture not only in New York City but in the entire United States. Our historic Harlem walking tour explores the history of Harlem, from its origins as a Dutch village in the 17th century through its transformation into the “Capital of Black America” in the early 20th century. We place the evolution of Harlem into the context of American history by learning about how the Great Migration drove the neighborhood’s ethnic transformation through several incarnations before Harlem finally became the black metropolis we think of today. Our Harlem guided tour emphasizes the artistic, literary, and musical flowerings of the 1920s Harlem Renaissance. Learn how this period laid the intellectual foundation for the early Civil Rights Movement. Stops could include the Abyssinian Baptist Church, Striver’s Row, the Apollo Theater, The Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture, Hotel Theresa, and sites associated with W.E.B. DuBois, Madame C.J. Walker, Malcolm X, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., Carl van Vechten, and many others.

Health & Safety Guidelines For our in-person walking tours, see our FAQs below for information regarding our Stay Well NYC Pledge.

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Public Tour

Private tour, tour schedule, tour reservations.

Big Onion requires all walkers to reserve and pay in advance. Prepayment helps us determine group size and appropriate guide numbers.

NOTE: You will select your date in the next step.

Reserve Your Spot Refund Policy

For bigger groups, consider a private walking or virtual tour!

Whether you are looking to integrate a tour into your academic curriculm or entertaining out-of-towners, a Big Onion walking tour is a great way to experience the city.

For more information, or to arrange, please call (718) 499-3001 or email [email protected] .

Meeting Location

Location: Northwest corner of 135th Street & Lenox (Malcolm X) Avenue – in front of the Schomburg Center.

Subway Trains 2/3 to 135th Street.

FAQs for In-Person Street Walks

Social Distancing On in person tours, Big Onion will follow the current recommended outdoor social distancing protocols.

Contact Tracing Big Onion will securely retain client contact information for one month, for contact tracing purposes, if necessary.

Guides The finest group of tour guides anywhere. Most of us are full-time graduate students researching and writing doctoral dissertations in history passionate about the history, architecture and people of New York. More about our guides .

Finding Your Guides All guides carry an 8×11 sign that says “Big Onion Walking Tours”.

Time & Distance All tours last approximately two hours. We start on time and walk between one and two miles at a moderate walking pace, stopping at various sites along the tour.

Rain/Inclement Weather Big Onion generally presents tours rain or shine. In the event of inclement weather please check our home page for notifications or call our hotline [(888) 606-WALK (9255) ext. 1], to confirm our schedule.

Tips Gratuities are always appreciated, but never expected.

Reschedule Policy With 24+ hours prior to a walking tour, Big Onion offers a full credit for the value of the booking. Credits will be given as Gift Cards in dollar amounts. Gift Cards are good for two years and can be used on any Big Onion outing. Cancellations with less than 24 hours prior to the tour or no shows cannot be credited.

Walks are held rain or shine, but may be cancelled for severe weather or if museum is closed. In the event of a Big Onion cancellation or museum closure, full refunds or rescheduled tickets will be offered.

More Questions? Check out How it Works for more details.

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Harlem Heritage Tours offers a unique set of products and services that serve to highlight the rich history of this New York neighborhood and its many contributions to American culture.

Creating authentic experiences is the company's main goal, therefore all tours are conducted by those who were actually born and raised in the community.  As of late many companies now offer tours in Harlem, but few really know and have lived the true culture of the community - NONE will state anywhere on their sites that they were born raised and still live in Harlem .  Come with us and get an insiders view of Harlem from guides who have lived in the community our entire lives.

Your warmly invited to not only learn about and celebrate Harlem's past, but to participate with us in the cultural and economic renaissance taking hold presently. Tour the historic streets of America's African-American Capital, visit cultural institutions, enjoy jazz, gospel, dine on delicious soul food and shop at Harlem's many outlets - so much fun.

Harlem is centrally located in Manhattan, and easy to get to from practically anywhere in the Tri-State area, so come with us and.....  

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The Soul of Harlem Walking Tour in New York

• When cake is available, I buy a slice of red-velvet cake from the famous "Cake Man Raven" Bake Shop
• 85 E 125th St, New York, NY 10035, USA The Ginjan Cafe
• Apollo Theater, 253 W 125th St, New York, NY 10027, USA 125th Street between Adam Clayton Powell Blvd & Frederick Douglass Blvd.
• Not wheelchair accessible
• Stroller accessible
• Service animals allowed
• Near public transportation
• Confirmation will be received at time of booking
• Most travelers can participate
• This experience requires good weather. If it’s canceled due to poor weather, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund
• This tour/activity will have a maximum of 10 travelers
• For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience.
• Apollo Theater
• Langston Hughes House
• The National Jazz Museum in Harlem

Similar experiences

• You'll start at 85 E 125th St 85 E 125th St, New York, NY 10035, USA The Ginjan Cafe See address & details
• 1 Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture Stop: 15 minutes See details
• 2 The National Jazz Museum in Harlem Stop: 15 minutes See details
• 3 Langston Hughes House Stop: 10 minutes See details
• 4 Apollo Theater Stop: 5 minutes See details
• 5 2082 Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvd Stop: 5 minutes See details
• 6 Harlem Stop: 100 minutes See details
• You'll end at Apollo Theater 253 W 125th St, New York, NY 10027, USA 125th Street between Adam Clayton Powell Blvd & Frederick Douglass Blvd. See address & details

More to explore in New York City

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Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as wait time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.

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Things to Do in Harlem NYC

This post covers things to do in Harlem, NYC. We include the best things to see and do, where to eat, hear live music, and how to attend a gospel service.

Harlem is a neighborhood that I and my fellow tour guides love. It’s especially fun to share with our tour guests and visitors of our own.

It’s a vibrant neighborhood rich with history, art, architecture, culture and…great food!

Below I tell you about the places I think one must visit when in Harlem. Many of these are stops on our pay-what-you-wish Harlem Walking Tour . 

I also took into account suggestions from some of the 230,000 members of our NYC Travel Tips Facebook group and you can read them at the bottom of this post.

The group is made up of locals, visitors to NYC, and those just getting to know the city.

There's no need to join the group to read the posts, comments and recommendations. So take a look at our group for more ideas. You can even ask a question yourself!

• Plan Your Visit
• Top 14 Things to Do
• Places to Eat
• Gospel Services
• Guided Tours

Watch a 22-minute abridged version of our live Harlem tour.

PLAN YOUR VISIT

Harlem is referred to by many as the Black Mecca of the World. If you want to understand African-American history and culture, Harlem is a must-visit neighborhood.

It's a place where you can see historic sites and diverse architecture, hear amazing jazz and gospel, taste succulent ‘soul food’, and feel the unique vibe that Harlem offers.

Historic brownstones line the sidestreets while along the avenues you may come across a live African-style drumming circle.

You can see innovative art and huge murals just a block away from ancient African artifacts.

I can't emphasize enough that if you have time in your itinerary, head up to Harlem.

If you don't want to go it alone, join our pay-what-you-like   Harlem Walking Tour .

If you prefer to explore on your own, you can enjoy our GPS-led audio tour , which can be taken at any time of day or night.

You might even look into staying in Harlem. Some accommodations have prices lower than many NYC hotels. See what's available at Hotwire and TripAdvisor .

Podcast Episode: Listen to our tour guides Lori and Katherine discuss why you should visit Harlem during an episode of our NYC Travel Tips podcast.

This podcast offers bite-sized audio clips with tips on how to plan your trip to NYC. You can get our podcasts on  Apple ,  Google , or wherever you get your podcasts.

How to Get Here

Harlem is a large neighborhood, stretching from the Hudson River to the East River and from 110th to 155th Streets.

For those who ask "Where is Harlem?", this can be answered in a few ways!

Some will say "Upper Manhattan", and some say "Uptown". New Yorkers sometimes use these interchangeably. Find out why from our post Things to Do in Upper Manhattan

For the sake of this post, let's say it's at the northern tip of Manhattan as the map shows.

Many areas within Harlem have their own vibe. Some streets are bustling with restaurants, bars, and shopping while others are entirely residential.

A good place to start your exploration is at 125th Street and Lenox Avenue, the center of Harlem.

125th Street is one of Harlem's most famous streets where you will find many of the attractions listed in this post.

Use this  Google map  to get directions from your point of departure.

• Take the A, B, C, or D trains to 125th Street
• Take the 2 or 3 trains to 125th Street
• Take the 4, 5, or 6 trains to 125th Street and then either take a taxi or a bus Westbound to 8th Avenue/Frederick Douglass Boulevard

If you are unfamiliar with NYC's subway system, then read our posts on how to master the subway and tips on choosing the right MetroCard for you.

• M1, M7, M10, M101, M102, M103, M104, M103, M106, M116

TIP: If you are considering using a hop-on-hop-off bus to get around NYC, keep in mind that many tours stop in Harlem. Find out which bus tours do by reading our post comparing the different New York bus companies .

Best Times to Visit

Harlem is at its most energetic when the weather is pleasant and locals and visitors are enjoying time outdoors. The weekends are the liveliest, both day and night.

During the peak tourist season, you may find that restaurants, jazz clubs, museums, and historic sites are a bit more crowded than on weekdays.

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Sunday is the busiest day of the week in Harlem as locals are out and about, enjoying brunch, shopping, and for many, going to church.

Sundays are also the best if you want to see Harlem at its liveliest, but if you are coming for the art centers and museums, you may want to visit on a weekday.

GOSPEL BRUNCH AND SERVICES

If you've never seen a gospel performance, you've been missing out.

Over the years, I've been to different churches and tabernacles to hear gospel and it is always incredibly inspirational.

For many of Harlem's locals, Sunday gospel services are the highlight of the week.

If you can't make it on a Sunday or don't want to deal with the crowds of tourists who flock to hear gospel on Sundays, consider the below gospel experience on Wednesdays.

Lady Altoviese's Harlem Renaissance and Gospel Experience

Every Wednesday, Lady Altoviese, a tour guide with Free Tours by Foot, presents her gospel performance.

There's no dress code and this is not a church service.  Learn more here .

Read about other ways to attend a gospel service in NYC .

Non-churchgoers will be out around 12 pm-4 pm enjoying brunch, often accompanied by live music.

This is a great time to see Harlem but not if you are in a rush.

Here are some of the best Sunday Brunch with Live Jazz options: Nabe , Harlem Tavern , Minton's Playhouse , Rowhouse , and BLVD Bistro .

For other options, see our list of restaurants below.

IS HARLEM SAFE TO VISIT?

This excerpt below was taken from our post, Is Harlem Safe?

The reputation Harlem once had as a dangerous neighborhood is no longer the case.

With urban development along 125th Street and the surrounding streets, most of Harlem is safe, especially during the day.

Since you may be new to NYC, for your comfort we recommend the following:

• During the day, use the same precautions you would when visiting any other New York City neighborhood. Keep your eyes on your bags and pockets as a precaution.
• Feel free to ask locals for directions if you are lost. Most people are friendly, just like in other parts of the city. Note that not all locals are thrilled that their neighborhood has become a tourist destination. Still, it is unlikely that you will have any negative interactions.
• At night, use your common sense. If a street is not well-lit and you don’t have a particular destination on that street, take another route.
• As everywhere in NYC at night, pay attention to your surroundings. It’s best not to be flashing your wallet about in the street.
• Avoid parks in Harlem at night. This applies to many parks in NYC, even certain areas of Central Park.

TOP 14 ATTRACTIONS AND THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN HARLEM

Here is a list of what I think are the best things to do in and around Central Harlem. Throughout the year there are some special events, so I've included those as well.

Most places listed are stops on our pay-what-you-like   Harlem Walking Tour  as well as our GPS-led audio tour of Harlem .

Everything on the list is  family-friendly . Most are free or affordable, which is just how I like it!

Click the map to open an interactive version .

When I plan an afternoon in Harlem, I sometimes tack on a visit to some Uptown museums or Central Park, so I've included some things you might want to check out beyond Central Harlem .

1. Take a Walking Tour

We offer a pay-what-you-like   Harlem Walking Tour  that stops at more sites than covered in this post.

You'll be entertained and educated by one of our personable and knowledgeable guides who'll tell you stories of Harlem's past and present.

See all our tour offerings on this calendar .

If you can't join our Harlem tour and want some narration to accompany your walk around the neighborhood, try our  GPS-enabled Audio Tour of Harlem .

2. Apollo Theater

253 West 125th St bet. Frederick Douglass Blvd. and Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd.

The world-famous Apollo Theater has been a staple in the Harlem community since 1934 and has featured giant musical entertainers for generations.

The list is endless! Performers over the decades include Duke Ellington, Dizzy Gillespie, Count Basie, Ray Charles, Aretha Franklin, and James Brown.

Apollo's famous Amateur Night  showcases emerging singers, bands, comedians, and dancers from all backgrounds.

The audience is the judge and a contestant who wins over the crowd is sure to make it to the big leagues one day.

The audience does not hesitate to boo someone off the stage if they are terrible.

I've been several times and am always impressed by the talent. I've also been dismayed by just how bad some performers are. It's all part of the fun!

Many Amateur Night contestants have gone on to stardom, such as 15-year-old Ella Fitzgerald.

Others whose careers were launched at Amateur Night include Stevie Wonder, Michael Jackson, and Lauryn Hill.

Amateur night is on Wednesday nights at 7:30 pm. You can also see other shows at the Apollo. (See our Nightlife section below).

Read more about the Apollo Theater here .

3. Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture

515 Malcolm X Blvd.

This unique public library is located in the heart of Harlem and is also where we begin our  pay-what-you-like   Harlem Walking Tour . It is also included in our  GPS-enabled tour of Harlem .

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The Schomberg opened in 1925 and has become one of the world's top institutions devoted to the research, preservation, and exhibition of materials focused on African American, African Diaspora, and African experiences.

They have over 10 million objects, artifacts, documents, recordings, art pieces, and more.

The main floor has rotating exhibitions that are always interesting and free to see. Click here for more information.

Special events, readings, and lectures are scheduled regularly. The topics range from Educational Injustice & the Struggle for Liberatory Education and When Sugar Hill Was Sweet: A Woman’s Work Is Never Done .

Visiting the Schomberg Center is so interesting that we include it in our list of the top free things to do in NYC .

4.  Sylvia's Restaurant 

328 Malcolm X Blvd. at 127th St.

Looking for a great place to eat in Harlem? A popular yet affordable place that’s rich in culture and history?

Why not head up to Sylvia’s Restaurant in the heart of where the Harlem Renaissance took place?

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Rob Ridner (@ridner)

Sylvia’s is simply a must-have to really experience the Harlem culture and is surprisingly reasonably priced for the entire family.

The late founder, Sylvia Wood, was known as the Queen of Soul Food.

For more details on the one and only Sylvia's, click  here .

For other restaurants, see our Where to Eat  section below. Also, check out our post on  Soul Food in Harlem .

5. National Jazz Museum

58 West 129th St. at Malcolm X Blvd.

This Smithsonian-affiliated museum is located just a few streets north of Sylvia's.

It is a small museum, but for Jazz fans, you will leave feeling very satisfied.

While they have access to the Smithsonian's Jazz Collection, this museum prefers to keep jazz thriving through lectures, discussions, and live performances.

You can listen to hundreds of historical recordings of early jazz pioneers, including rare recordings not found anywhere else in the world.

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I recommend you bring wired headphones to listen to the collections at the listening stations. If you don't have your own, you can purchase earbuds at the museum.

Besides listening to early recordings of some of my favorite jazz musicians, I also liked seeing the 'artifacts' like musical instruments from jazz legends, original sheet music and posters.

Take the time to talk to the docents and you will have a richer experience.

The museum is open Thursdays-Saturdays from 12 pm to 5 pm. Admission is free, but they do ask for a suggested donation of $10.

Donations must be made through contactless payment so have a credit or debit card with you.

See their website for more information.

6. Abyssinian Baptist Church

132 W 138th St.

Founded in 1808, considered a ‘mega-church’; One of its most famous leaders was Reverend Adam Clayton Powell, Jr., one of America’s first civil rights activists.

The Abyssinian Baptist Church is a popular place for visitors to take in a gospel service.

It's one of the places I've seen gospel, and I can tell you it can get very crowded, so you may want to see gospel at a different church.

To find other locations to witness a gospel church service, see the section below  as well as our post,  Where to Hear Gospel Music in New York City .

7. Check Out Harlem's Murals

As a fan of street art and murals, I think Harlem is one of the top places to see street art in NYC .

At 229 W 135th Street between Adam Clayton Powell Jr. and Frederick Douglass Boulevards, you can see the larger-than-life jazz legend Dizzy Gillespie, who made his name in Harlem during the Harlem Renaissance.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Anna Millan (@annamillan1)

We stop at many of these murals on our tours of Harlem .

Keep an eye out on the 125th Street subway platform on the 2 and 3 subway lines where glass mosaic murals depict Harlem legends and famous Harlem locations.

TIP : The Graffiti Hall of Fame, inside a playground at Park Avenue and E. 106 Street is pretty cool if you have the time to walk over.

8.   Strivers’ Row

West 138th St. and West 139th St. bet. Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd. and Frederick Douglass Blvd.

As someone with a strong interest in architecture, I adore Strivers' Row, a small, historic set of houses built in 1891.

One special thing about Strivers' Row is the different styles of buildings you will see within just two blocks.

On the north side of West 138th Street, the houses are entirely different, made of yellow brick and white limestone with terra-cotta trim.

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On the south side of West 138th Street, you can find red-brick and brownstone buildings.

Most notable are the plots of land between some of the houses. These were stable mews for the horses to drive carriages -- there weren't cars in 1891. 

On our Harlem Tours , you'll learn about the role these houses played in the growth of distinct socioeconomic classes among the African-American residents of Harlem.

9. Studio Museum

429 West 127th Street bet. Amsterdam and Convent Avenues.

This is a contemporary art museum devoted to African-American artists of the 19th and 20th centuries.

It curates work from emerging black artists and has both a permanent collection and rotating exhibitions.

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Note: Its home location at 125th Street is currently closed as they renovate and expand the museum. The work is expected to be done by 2024.

Until then you can visit Studio Museum 127, a temporary programming space between Thursdays through Sundays, from 12 to 6 pm.

Check  their website for schedules of exhibitions and other exciting initiatives.

10. Hotel Theresa

On the corner of 125th Street/Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. Blvd.

Built in 1912-13, the Hotel Theresa was a major social hub in Harlem.

The building itself is architecturally handsome and it was known as the "Waldorf-Astoria" of Harlem.

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The building itself isn't what's special. What's special is what took place inside.

Among its guests over the years are Martin Luther King, Jr., Malcolm X, and Fidel Castro - who had his 'friend' Nikita Krushev over while he was visiting New York from the USSR!

11. Marcus Garvey Park

Mt. Morris Park West & Madison Avenue

Marcus Garvey Park has something for everyone.

You can often find live music, plays, and comedy performances put on in the park’s amphitheater.

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For those traveling with kids, there are two playgrounds as well as a pool to cool off in on summer days.

See the park's  website for events, hours, and amenities.

Tip:  There is free wi-fi by the Amphitheater. For other free wifi access throughout the city, see our post  Where to Find Free WiFi in New York .

12. The Cotton Club

This legendary jazz club opened in 1920, at the height of Harlem’s jazz scene. Prohibition had been enacted that year and the country went ‘dry’ The Cotton Club opened somewhat in response. 

The club served a dual purpose: providing superb entertainment and providing “bootleg” alcohol. Over the years jazz musicians like Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway and Louis Armstrong played here.

The Cotton Club is still swinging today. You can enjoy a range of music, from jazz to gospel, while eating lunch or dinner. 

The club is located at 656 W. 125th St. See the Cotton Club website for more information.

13. The Langston Hughes House

The renowned African-American poet Langston Hughes was one of the most important figures during the Harlem Renaissance era. 

In 1951, he wrote the deeply moving poem Harlem , better known as A Dream Deferred .

Hughes lived in Harlem for the last 20 years of his life. He died in 1967 and in 1980 his residence at 20 E. 127th St. was given landmark status.

Today, his apartment is open to the public to visit and pay tribute. Also in the building is the I, Too Arts Collective at the Langston Hughes House, a non-profit that offers poetry readings.

EVENTS IN HARLEM

Here are a few of the best events to check out throughout the year.

• Harlem Week is a month-long and takes place annually (usually the last week in July to the last week in August). There are dozens of events with music, dance, cultural films and performances, sports, kids' activities and so much more.

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• Harlem Art Alliance  lists dozens of weekly events on its website calendar including dance performances and classes. Most are free or very affordable.
• Schomburg Center's Annual Black Comic Book Festival - A forum for animators, bloggers, cosplay lovers, fans, families, illustrators, independent publishers, and writers to celebrate Black comic books and graphic novels.
• Annual Christmas Show  by the Harlem School of the Arts. A family-friendly performance put on by the students of HSA.

For other events in Harlem, see our post about  things to do in New York City and our monthly posts about things to do in the city.

BEYOND CENTRAL HARLEM

Central park.

The northern section of Central Park is located on the southern border of Harlem and is less frequented by tourists.

There are flora and fauna and birds not found in other parts of the park.

In the Autumn you can see the colorful leaves and in Spring, see the new blossoms. Plus, you'll find some great playgrounds.

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You can swim in Harlem Meer in the summer or in the winter  go ice-skating  on Lasker Rink.

For more about the north section of Central Park, take a look at the maps on our post about  free tours and activities in Central Park .

Alexander Hamilton Grange National Memorial

414 West 141st bet. Convent and St Nicholas Avenues.  (family-friendly)

This historic house dating from 1802 is in Hamilton Heights, which is part of North Harlem.

The house's first owner was Alexander Hamilton, one of the most significant individuals in American History and whose life (and death by duel) story is fascinating.

He was one of America's Founding Fathers, as well as the founder of the U.S. Treasury system. You can see him on the $10 bill and now the subject of a hit Broadway play!

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At the Grange home, you can see historically furnished rooms either on a ranger-guided tour and talk or on your own. See  the website  for more information. Free to visit.

To see where he is buried and hear about his duel with Aaron Burr, you can join our pay-what-you-wish Lower Manhattan Tour or explore on your own with our GPS-led Self-Guided Audio Tour .

TIP : Find out how to get $20 tickets to Hamilton , the Broadway show!

General Ulysses S. Grant National Memorial

122nd St and Riverside Drive

More widely known as  Grant's Tomb , this is the largest mausoleum in the United States.

You can explore the inside of the large impressive stone monument, with occasional access to the crypt.

There are reliquary rooms on the main floor with Civil War artifacts, a visitors center, a gift shop, and a public restroom. Free.

Museum of the City of New York (MCNY)  

1220 Fifth Avenue at 103rd St.

As its name suggests, this museum is dedicated to preserving and showcasing New York City's history through exhibits of all kinds in addition to its permanent collection.

My favorite special exhibit was the outstanding Robert Moses and the Modern City about the controversial 'master builder' of New York City from 1934 to 1968.

Some say he modernized the city while others say he destroyed it. The debate goes on.

The museum is also fun for kids as well with special educational programs. You can find more information on  the website .  Free entry with suggested admission.

El Museo del Barrio

1230 Fifth Avenue at 104th St.

This museum is the only museum in NYC that showcases Latino cultures so extensively. You can see works by artists of Puerto Rican, Caribbean, and Latin American heritage.

They also host cultural festivities, youth, and educational programming, and literary discussions.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Fab. (@thephotofab)

Click here for more information.  Free with suggested admission.

TIP:  See what other museums are free in NYC . There are dozens!

PLACES TO EAT IN HARLEM

Here are a few restaurants that I and my fellow guides enjoy a lot and recommend to our tour guests looking for places to try soul food.

To learn a bit about the history of this fabulous cuisine, read our post on Soul Food in Harlem .

Sylvia’s House of Soul Food   328 Malcolm X Blvd. at 127th St.

Decades-old and world-famous, Harlem would not be the same without this restaurant.

To learn more about this iconic Harlem restaurant click here .

Amy Ruth's Restaurant 116th Street & Lenox Avenue (Malcolm X Blvd.)

Southern-styled cuisine starts with Amy Ruth's Restaurant. Do you want Soul Food?

Amy Ruth's Restaurant responds.

After sampling a popular daily special: the Chicken and Waffles dish, returning to Amy Ruth's will become your wish!

Red Rooster Harlem Restaurant 310 Lenox Avenue between 125th and 126th

A mix of traditional American food and diverse culinary appeals to the “New Harlem" scene.

The chef is award-winning chef Marcus Samuelsson, who also was the chef for the first State Dinner of the Obama administration. Fried chicken is a must-have.

Melba's American Comfort Food   300 West 114th St.

This attractive establishment stands out with its charming church pews sitting out front. This is one of the smaller restaurants in Harlem and seating is limited.

Check out the Southern Fried Chicken & Eggnog Waffles featured on the Food Network. Bonus: Tuesday is live music night!

Londel's   2620 Frederick Douglass Blvd.

Authentic Harlem food, although a bit more expensive than other places. But they have live music, so the extra money is worth it.

Miss Mamie’s Spoonbread Too 366 W 110th St.

Spoonbread is a corn-meal-based dish that resembles corn-meal souffle. Think Yorkshire pudding.

Delicious indeed. Norma Darden has been 'making it delicious and soulful' since 1997.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Carmela Manoli (@carmela_manoli)

Make My Cake 121 St Nicholas Ave and also 2380 Adam Clayton Powell Blvd.

This former home-based family business offers a tasty answer to any sweet tooth. With such yummy delights as cookies, cakes, cupcakes, and pies.

Be sure to check out their “Sweet Brand” of mugs, t-shirts, and hats.

Levain Bakery 2167 Frederick Douglass Blvd (at Eighth Ave)

Levain Bakery is a must for those who love chocolate chip cookies. The famous 6 oz. giant Chocolate Chip Walnut and Dark Chocolate Chip Chocolate cookies are sublime.

You can ask for your cookie to be warmed up for an extra gooey experience.

Yatenga Bistro 2269 Adam Clayton Powell Blvd.

Yatenga is located in the heart of Harlem and has a very rustic look with matched chairs and festive statues for sale. The mac and cheese is a huge favorite!

They have outdoor seating, which is a treat in nice weather.

NIGHTLIFE IN HARLEM

Be sure to also check out our post on things to do at night in NYC .

Apollo Theater  253 West 125th Street

There is no lack of live performances at the Apollo. You can see comedy, music, dance, theater, and more. See their calendar here .

Don't forget you can go see Amateur Night At The Apollo.

Shrine World Music Venue  2271 Adam Clayton Powell Boulevard

There is no cover charge to see great live music. You'll hear genres such as Hip Hop, African, and the Caribbean.

Be sure to check the Shrine’s website for the musical performance schedule.

Bill's Place  148 W 133rd St.

A visit here is like seeing great live jazz in a friend’s basement. It is intimate, informal, and incredible. You pay only the cover charge of $20 per person (cash only).

You can bring in your own drinks, wine, etc. as well as snacks. Make reservations ahead of time for this “only in New York" experience.

Harlem Nights  2361 Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvd (138th Street)

A cozy neighborhood bar with live music most nights, of many genres, including jazz, Latino, singer/songwriter music, and more. It’s a very welcoming atmosphere with playful cocktails and small plates of food.

Harlem Tavern  2153 Frederick Douglass Blvd (at 116th St)

This bar & grill has live music on Tuesday and Thursday nights. It’s authentic and you’ll find native Harlemites enjoying the tunes.

The Cotton Club 656 W. 125th St.

See live music at this iconic Harlem establishment that opened in 1920. Sip on classic a cocktail like Mai-Tais and Cosmopolitans. They also have a full menu for lunch and dinner. Music ranges from jazz, blues, and gospel.

GOSPEL SERVICES

Every Wednesday, Harlem resident, Lady Altoviese, a tour guide with Free Tours by Foot, presents her gospel performance.

There is no shortage of Harlem gospel tours. Before booking a tour, be sure to read our post,  Where to Hear Gospel Music for New York for Free .

If you prefer a guided tour that will ensure that you see some great gospel, here are a few choices:

• New York Pass - this tourist pass includes two free gospel experiences, a 9:30 a.m. Sunday gospel walk and a Wednesday evening walk. Both include gospel experiences. Check out our  review of the New York Pass  to see if it is right for you.
• Harlem Spirituals offers both Gospel Tour on Sunday as well as Gospel Tour on Wednesday . There are also Sunday  gospel tours that include brunch .

TIPS FROM LOCALS AND TRAVELERS

As we noted at the beginning of this post, I and my fellow tour guides like spending time in Harlem, and have visited all the places in this post.

We each have our favorites, but we like to share suggestions from members of our New York Travel Tips Facebook group. Here are a few recommendations.

We had a lot of locals chime in with their suggestions for sights that must be seen in Harlem. Most are from our list above.

Bruce has it all covered - and threw in City College. Founded in 1847, City College has a gorgeous campus with five landmark Neo-Gothic buildings.

It’s a bit of a hike from Central Harlem, so we don’t include it in this post, but if you are curious read about it here .

Like Bruce, Barbara also recommends the Schomburg Center and Revolution Bookshop. Lit lovers will enjoy this aspect of Harlem.

Rosa, a Harlem local suggests a visit to the Jazz Museum, one of our top 13 list!

She goes on to mention Astor Row, where you’ll see more than 20 three-story red brick houses built in the early 1880s.

If you like architecture mixed with history, take a stroll over to these houses.

Anina liked simply walking around Harlem admiring the brownstones, seeing locals coming from church on a Sunday, and shopping at the Malcolm Shabazz Market.

And she offers a great tip. Wear comfortable shoes if you’ll be doing so much walking!

Here Sandra adds a second vote for the Malcolm Shabazz Market and also mentions the lovely Harlem Meer in Central Park.

These group members stayed in Harlem and found that there were a lot of local cultural events like free jazz concerts and even Shakespeare performances.

Several group members spent their time in Harlem combining a meal at Red Rooster with a musical performance. Rave reviews all around!

In Dawn’s case, she combined her meal with a visit to hear gospel music.

You can switch it up at night by following a meal at Red Rooster with a show at the Apollo.

As for other restaurants, two of our favorites, Sylvia's and Amy Ruth's, were the most often mentioned restaurants.

There was plenty of enthusiasm among our group members about going to the Apollo Theater, in particular Amateur Night.

Like the group members above, Dorothy recommends tacking on a meal at Sylvia’s.

If you have more questions about Harlem (or anything else about NYC) that we haven't covered here, check out our New York Travel Tips Facebook group!

RELATED POSTS

• Guide to NYC Neighborhoods
• Things to Do in NYC
• Guided Tours of Harlem
• Where to Stay in NYC
• 5 Boroughs of NYC Explained

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Mount Morris Park Historic Walking Tour

Explore this amazing historic district

Delicious lunch included

Friendly, experienced guides from Harlem

Mount Morris Park & why you shouldn’t miss this tour

In 1971, Mount Morris Park Historic District was proclaimed to be a historic district by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission. On this tour, you’ll have the opportunity to visit a local park and famous Harlem landmarks while seeing the unaltered streetscapes of late 19th and early 20th-century brownstone townhouses and churches that represent the district’s eclectic style.

See some of the famous Harlem brownstones

Stroll across 125th Street, dubbed “the heartbeat of Harlem”

See landmarks Hotel Teresa, St. Martin’s Episcopal Church, Apollo Theater, and more

Visit one of our local parks where the Summer of Soul happened in 1969 and home to the last standing fire watchtower in New York City

Discover the area where Tammany Hall bosses lived and the notable Doctor's Row

Enjoy the Studio Museum of Harlem and the location of the James VanDerZee studio

Click the tabs to find out more

Trip details, the specifics, price (usd).

$75 per person

Meeting point

145 West 122nd Street, Suite 1 (between Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd and Lenox Avenue)

Availability

Mondays and Saturdays, all year-round

Exceptions: December 24-25, December 31-January 1

A delicious lunch

Not included

Transportation

What to bring

Please wear comfortable walking shoes, bring an open mind and heart, camera, and a smile on your face

Good to know

Tours must be booked at least 24 hours in advance.

What you'll do

The Mount Morris Park Historic District is New York City’s brownstone capital . Being one of the earliest landmarked districts in the five boroughs in Harlem, many of the houses in the neighborhood retain a high degree of integrity. The buildings within the Mount Morris Park Historic District Extension represent quality, design, and workmanship and create an exceptional character and strong sense of place. Mount Morris Park Historic District showcases a remarkable blend of late 19th and early 20th-century residential and church architecture associated with the Gilded Age.

The well-known “ Doctors’ Row ,” commonly referred to as West 122nd Street, Mount Morris Park West, and Malcolm X Boulevard, all demonstrate the remarkable survival of substantially unaltered 19th-century streetscapes, rare in most areas of Manhattan.

On this walking tour, you will have the chance to see, experience, admire, and learn about this historic district, with many landmark stops on the way. Our local, friendly, and experienced tour guides will take you off the beaten path and show you some hidden gems within this great community. Once the walking tour comes to a close, you will be treated to lunch at a local Harlem restaurant and the opportunity to savor some of the local delights.

Welcome to Harlem takes pride in showing off our beautiful city and sharing the history of the Mount Morris Park Historic District and all of the beautiful sights along the way!

Check out what our guests are saying

Peter3801 | 2022.

Worth every step!

Our guide Doris gave us a fascinating tour of Harlem, filled with history and personal stories. We loved hearing about the people and culture which create the distinctiveness of the Harlem neighborhood. The walking was at an easy pace, and the lunch was delicious. Get out of downtown and midtown and explore the diversity of New York with this very interesting tour.

Obie S | 2021

Harlem is much more than the Apollo.

Carolyn helps you understand the rich history of Harlem. We were familiar with the Harlem Renaissance, but we learned that it was just one slice of the History. Waiting to start the tour, we learned a lot sitting in Carolyn’s place.

hapagirl24 | 2021

Take this wonderful tour, you won’t regret it!

Carolyn is a great tour guide. She is very knowledgeable and down to earth. We walked for 5 miles, but it didn’t seem like it because she made it so interesting. The lunch was delicious!

DBrown9880 | June 2019

My daughter and I made reservations for the Mount Morris Park tour. Overall, it was a great introduction to the heart of Harlem and Sheryl, our guide, is very personable and knowledgeable. Read more

Kathy M | May 2019

Cheryl was an exceptional tour guide with extensive knowledge of the Harlem community and changes over time. Great tour and delicious lunch! Read more

Koen | January 2019

Carolyn showed me around Harlem and it was so great! She knows so much about Harlem and NYC, is so passionate about Harlem and I just found it so enjoyable and interesting walking around with her in Harlem – hearing all the stories. Carolyn’s tour was one of the highlights during my visit. Yes, I definitely recommend Carolyn’s Mount Morris Park tour! Read more

You may also like...

Harlem civil rights walking tour with lunch, harlem jammin jazz tour, the harlem rhythm and rhyme walking tour.

5 of the Best Harlem Walking Tours

Find out what makes the Big Apple’s Harlem so special on these fascinating walking tours of the neighborhood.

(Photo: Viator.com)

“Harlem is a stage. It’s like its own planet” according to the singer Teyana Taylor. This New York locale fizzes with creativity and has been immortalized in music and on the silver screen in countless movies and TV shows over the years. Today it is just as vibrant as ever, and a great place to tap into the soul of New York. Taking in a Harlem gospel tour or neighborhood walking tour with a local is a great way to learn all about the unique social fabric of Harlem and the history that made it this way.

Central Harlem Hub of African American Culture

A fantastic way to understand Harlem as a neighborhood today in the context of its past is on this two-hour walking tour. With your guide, you will explore the Central Harlem sites where jazz was allowed to explode into a full-blown scene, transforming the lives and fortunes of the area forever. You will pass by the area’s most storied stately homes and churches, along with other notable landmarks such as the Apollo Theater. Tours run on Saturday only at 10am. From $25 per person.

Book at Getyourguide.com

Harlem Hip-Hop Walking Tour

Hip-hop was born in New York City. While primarily emerging from The Bronx, nearby Harlem had a strong hand in the game as well, particularly given the area’s musical pedigree. This tour seeks out all things hip-hop, including backdrops to some of the early music videos, the Graffiti Wall of Fame, and the many venues where anyone who was anyone in hip-hop performed and hung out. Entry to the Museum of the City of New York is included in the price. Tours run from Thu-Tue. From $45 per person.

Book at Viator.com

(Photo: Getyourguide.com)

Harlem Renaissance Walking Tour with Lunch

The social history of Harlem is fascinating, with many memorable characters contributing to the neighborhood’s charm and atmosphere through the decades. This three-hour walking tour focusses primarily on what was known as the Harlem Renaissance, a period of intense creativity in the 1920s and 30s where music, dance, literature and fashion thrived. Expect plenty of enthralling stories about the likes of Duke Ellington, Pig Foot Mary, Langston Hughes and many more. Tours on Friday only. From $71 per person.

New York City’s Harlem Highlights and Gospel Concert

Harlem gospel choirs are the embodiment of uplifting and energetic Christian devotion. This side of Harlem is unlike any other, offering a unique experience during your stay. This tour begins with a guide through the history of the area, from its Dutch farming roots to the rich cultural terrain that it is today. Finally, you will stop at the ARC Gospel Choir, for a resounding concert. This tour runs only on Wednesday. From $80 per person.

Harlem Jazz Crawl Tour

If jazz is your jam, then this single-focus tour is the ultimate in Harlem’s musical stylings, both past and present. It combines a history tour of the neighborhood’s key jazz scene haunts with two separate sets of live music at different clubs, allowing you the chance to get a feel for the breadth of the genre. If you consider yourself an accomplished singer or instrumentalist, you can even join in with the band. This tour usually runs Wed-Mon each week, although schedules can vary in winter. From $139 per person.

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"You Are Here" - Black History Walking Tours of Lower Manhattan & Harlem

You Are Here Walking Tours LLC

25 Best NYC Tours for Families: From Boat Rides to Free Walking Tours and More

W ith so much to explore in New York City, it’s hard to know where to start. That’s where these NYC tours come in handy. There are so many innovative ways to see the city and explore and learn about New York from expert guides. From boat tours to walking tours to historical tours and food tours, we've rounded up 25 family-friendly tours of NYC guaranteed to help you find the perfect way to discover the city’s hidden secrets and fun facts.

We've got tons more picks for enjoying New York City with kids in our Visitors Guide for Families , which includes our picks for the top attractions in NYC and 100 things to do in NYC with kids before they grow up .

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Family-Friendly General Interest Tours of NYC

1. contrasts, color, and character bus tour of nyc – midtown west.

Best for : Ages 10+

The Contrasts, Color, and Character Bus Tour might jump off from Midtown, but it's an excellent tour if you want to step outside of Manhattan and explore New York City’s outer boroughs, including Brooklyn, the Bronx, and Queens. On this tour, expect to ride around on a bus and hear about Harlem’s African American history at the Apollo Theater, see numerous graffiti murals and bold street art that decorates the outer boroughs, and learn about the culture and everyday life of Brooklyn’s Hasidic Jewish community.

2. Broadway and Times Square Walking Tour – Midtown West

Best for : All ages

1 hour, 45 minutes

If you want to be immersed in the heart of New York City, the Broadway and Times Square Walking Tour is the tour for you. On this NYC tour, guests learn about Broadway's different theaters and hear some spooky stories and behind-the-scenes tales. This a great New York City tour for kids as it’s less than 2 hours and kids under 4 get in for FREE!

3. Brooklyn Bridge and Dumbo Neighborhood Walking Tour – Civic Center

2 1/2 hours

This tour steps off on the Manhattan side of the Brooklyn Bridge. Hear about the construction of the infamous Brooklyn Bridge as you walk across this NYC landmark. From the bridge, you’ll be able to see beautiful city views. Once you hit Brooklyn, you’ll have the opportunity to explore Dumbo’s galleries and shops, before snapping a family photo with the city skyline as your famed backdrop.

4. Secrets of Grand Central Walking Tour – Midtown East

1 1/2 hours

The famed Grand Central Terminal is full of surprises you’d never expect! This New York City transport hub is popular for many reasons, but even people who commute through it daily don’t know its hidden secrets. From a concealed tennis court to a backward ceiling, you’ll learn all the confidential history. Stick around once your tour is over to enjoy some of these fun, kid-friendly finds .

5. New York In A Day Walking Tour – Midtown West

This tour makes for an ambitious adventure for any family, so definitely note that it lasts six hours, and pack snacks and water accordingly! Explore all the highlights of New York City, from Times Square to the 9/11 Memorial to the Statue of Liberty on foot, via subway, and even by ferry. Make sure to bring good walking shoes.

Best Boat Tours of NYC for Families

6. circle line manhattan cruise – hell's kitchen.

Best for : Ages 3+

If you’re looking for a solid boat tour, the Circle Line Manhattan Cruise is a great choice. This guided boat tour circumnavigates the entire island, offering views of New York City’s waterfront. See the skyline, sail under the Brooklyn Bridge, and even snap a postcard-worthy picture of the Statue of Liberty. Guests learn about all five boroughs as you sail past. This boat tour of NYC lasts a whopping 2 1/2 hours. If you're crunched for time, consider booking the 50-minute Downtown Express Sightseeing Cruise  guided by the same company.

7. Freedom Liberty Cruise – Hell's Kitchen

1 hour, 15 minutes

The Freedom Liberty Cruise is another popular boat tour in NYC. As you cruise along the Hudson River, you’ll see major landmarks, such as the Statue of Liberty and Freedom Tower. Instead of a guided tour, this boat tour of NYC is more free-form, and passengers take in the views with their families, take photos, and enjoy concessions from the boat. This more relaxed, less structured option may be a better choice for some families.

8. North River Lobster Company – Hell's Kitchen

What's not family-friendly about a Hudson River cruise that comes complete with a seafood lunch or dinner? As this boat sets sail up the Hudson River, its waitstaff gets to work, keeping cups filled and tummies full. There's a full bar on board. Feeding a crowd? Opt for The Shelly, a 28-inch classic lobster roll with slaw and chips served on a board and worthy to feed the entire family. Kids can top off their meal with a lobster-claw-shaped popsicle in a variety of flavors.

9. Manhattan Adventure Boat Tour – Battery Park City

Best for : Ages 5+

If you’re looking for a more exhilarating option, the Manhattan Adventure Boat Tour is the best option. This intimate, 12-person, narrated NYC tour cruise takes place on a speed boat, so expect to go fast while you explore some of New York’s must-see sights, including the Brooklyn Bridge, the Statue of Liberty, The High Line, and the Freedom Tower.

RELATED : 3 Days in NYC an Ultimate Itinerary from a Local Mom

A guided tour of the Metropolitan Museum of Art lets families connect to artwork in unexpected ways. Photo by Jody Mercier

Pop-Culture, Music, and Museum Tours of NYC

10. museum tour for theater lovers – upper east side.

Best for: Ages 8+

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is a kid-friendly treasure , but if your family is into theater, take the Staged tour. Fun for the whole family, this interactive museum tour looks at the history of theater from ancient Greece to contemporary musicals that its stories inspired. It also examines other cultures and how they used theater for thousands of years. Throughout this NYC museum tour, there are activities and questions to keep your family engaged. This is definitely a fun one!

11. Super Tour of NYC: Heroes! Comics! More! – Midtown West

Best for : Ages 6+

The Super Tour of NYC is full of comic books and cinema lore! Visit the iconic locations where favorite superheroes “saved the day.” Guests see 40 locations over three hours. If you aren’t a fan of comics at the start of this tour, you will be by the end.

12. Walking Tour: All-of-a-Kind Family – Lower East Side

Even if you haven’t read Sydney Taylor's classic book All-of-a-Kind Family , families love exploring the story and its characters on the Lower East Side with this dedicated walking tour. To make the most out of the tour, try to read the book beforehand, and then immerse yourselves in the excitement of visiting the Main Sanctuary of the Eldridge Street Synagogue, the Allen Street tenements, Hester and Orchard Streets, Seward Park, Seward Park Library, and The Pickle Guys, which carries characters’ favorite snack.

13. Griffins, Goblets, and Gold: A Magical Arts Tour – Upper East Side

Another guided tour of The Met, the Griffins, Goblets, and Gold Tour is a must-see. This two-hour tour explores the museum’s magical items, including parts of an actual castle, depictions of mythical creatures, and spooky objects. The whole family gets a chance to create their own magical world! Intrigued? Better get your tickets!

14. NYC TV and Movie Tour – Midtown West

The NYC TV and Movie Tour invites guests to travel around New York City, learning about the filming locations for favorite TV shows and movies from the comfort of a coach bus. Led by an NYC actor, you get the inside scoop on all the stops along the tour, and the host even quizzes you and your family with some fun trivia.

15. Radio City Music Hall Stage Door Tour – Rockefeller Center

If you and your family haven’t visited Radio City Music Hall, booking the Stage Door Tour is a great way to experience this art-deco treasure. During this NYC tour, guests go behind the scenes of this iconic NYC location to explore its astonishing history. Plus, at the end of the tour, you meet a real Radio City Rockette! Read our full review here and book your tickets online .

Historic Educational NYC Tours for Families

16. chinatown official historic district tour – chinatown.

The Chinatown Official Historic District Tour is a 90-minute walking tour that sheds light on Chinatown's unique history. Aside from seeing a Taoist Temple, the largest Buddhist statue in NYC, and more, guests get exclusive access to places that are usually off-limits to the public.

17. NYC Slavery and the Underground Railroad Walking Tour – Financial District

On this historical tour, guests learn about the origins of slavery in colonial New York, visit the African Burial Ground National Monument, and explore a former stop along the Underground Railroad. Hear stories of courage and learn facts you won’t hear anywhere else.

18. Gilded Age Mansions Tour – Upper East Side

Sometimes it’s fun to take a trip back in time and on this Gilded Ages Mansions Tour, you can do just that! Learn about historic scandals and romances while stepping inside a few of the only remaining Gilded Age mansions located on Fifth Avenue. Visitors learn about the families who lived in these houses, and take in the beautiful architecture of the era. This is a tour for the kids who love a great story!

19. Secrets of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island Walking Tour – Battery Park

If you’re interested in immigration history and want to teach your children a little about their ancestors, the Secrets of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island Walking Tour is a wonderful place to start. On this NYC tour, explore both Liberty and Ellis Island, while hearing stories of the immigrants who arrived through Ellis Island and their journey to America.

20. Catacombs by Candlelight – Little Italy

Best for : Ages 8+

If you’re looking for a unique NYC tour, the Catacombs by Candlelight Tour at the Basilica of St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral is a stunner. This historic tour takes guests into the catacombs and explores parts of the building that are usually closed to the public. This is a tour your family will always remember!

21. Birthplace of Hip-Hop Bus Tour – Midtown West

The Birthplace of Hip-Hop Bus Tour gives families a new way to discover music history. Journey through Harlem and the Bronx while learning about hip-hop's early days. Hear personal, real-time narratives and see secret rap battle sites! After this tour of NYC, your children will know everything about the hip-hop pioneer legends.

Family-Friendly NYC Food Tours

22. tea around town: afternoon tea bus tour – manhattan, ny.

This tour is a magical moving tea room paired with live entertainment. Pass sights like Grand Central Terminal, the New York Public Library's main branch, and Radio City Music Hall as you sip tea and champagne and eat scones and sweets in a double-decker bus dripping with luxurious floral decor.

23. A Slice of Brooklyn Pizza Tour – Union Square

4 1/2 hours

Everyone loves pizza, and this is New York pizza at its best! Whether you’re a seasoned local or just visiting, exploring the world of pizza on the Slice of Brooklyn Pizza Tour is a delicious option. This bus tour escorts visitors to two Brooklyn pizzerias and shows you sites along the way, such as Coney Island’s boardwalk.

24. The Original Cupcake Tour – Greenwich Village

If there is one thing kids love, it’s cupcakes! So, for a sweet treat, consider taking your family on The Original Cupcake Tour of Greenwich Village. Explore multiple bake shops and indulge in their treats during this guided food tour of NYC. Plus, get the chance to create your own cupcake. Who says you can't have your cake and eat it, too?

25. Walking and Food Tour – Flushing, Queens

Enjoy some tasty foods on the Walking and Food Tour in the melting pot of Flushing, Queens. This is a great tour for children who are open to trying new foods—diverse cuisines such as Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese, and Indian are all on the menu. Little foodies get to try some of the best Flushing street food and snacks, guided by a local with a passion for cuisine.

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Princeton University Art Museum Gets Six Site-Specific New Works

As the museum’s new building nears completion, shadowed by controversy, artists respond with new commissions.

By Hilarie M. Sheets

Reporting from Princeton, N.J.

Princeton University has a long history of commissioning public art by the likes of Henry Moore, Louise Nevelson, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, dating back to the 1960s. And when the Princeton University Art Museum opens to the public next year, at almost double the size of its original building, six new large-scale works by women and artists of color will have pride of place — visible beacons near the building’s perimeter, both indoors and out at this central crossroads on campus.

The artworks include four site-specific commissions by Diana Al-Hadid , Nick Cave , Jane Irish and Tuan Andrew Nguyen and two acquisitions by Jun Kaneko and Rose B. Simpson .

“From every access point toward the museum, there will be works of public art so that people can almost use them as visual markers of arrival,” James Steward, its director, said.

“I was thinking about how to bring voices that maybe were not yet adequately represented on our campus,” Steward said. The new artworks help “break down the distinctions between indoors and outdoors,” he added, as part of the goal to enhance accessibility and engagement with the museum’s encyclopedic collection, some 115,000 objects. (The institution is renowned for its Chinese paintings, photography and pre-Columbian holdings.)

The 1966 building was demolished in 2021 to make way for the new one. The museum has an annual operating budget of $29 million (60 percent of which comes from endowment income) and has 120 employees, expected to grow to 180 by the opening in 2025.

The 146,000-square-foot building, which is divided into nine interlocking pavilions for each area of its holdings, will place all of its collection galleries on the second floor, giving them parity. Nearly ignored in Steward’s tour was mention of the new building’s designer, the Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye , acclaimed for the National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington, D.C. Last year, Adjaye was accused of sexual misconduct by three former employees and has stepped back from day to day oversight on several projects.

As was reported at the time, Adjaye denied the accusations. “I absolutely reject any claims of sexual misconduct, abuse or criminal wrongdoing,” he said in 2023 in a statement.

Steward said in an interview, “We were 50 percent through construction” at the time of the allegations. “We were obviously not going to tear the building down and start over again.”

It is credited as an Adjaye Associates project, but Steward said the architect is no longer personally involved and the remaining work is in the hands of the collaborating architects Cooper Robertson . (Similarly, the Studio Museum in Harlem ’s new building is nearing completion with Adjaye Associates and Cooper Robertson.) The Shelburne Museum in Vermont , on the other hand, which had hired Adjaye to build its new center for Native American art, had barely begun the design process last year and chose to cut all ties with his firm.

Princeton’s building was fully funded — two-thirds by private donors, one-third by the university — before its groundbreaking in 2021. “We have to reclaim our own values that have shaped the project,” the director said.

He suggested those values are embedded in the four new artist commissions, which each respond directly to the architecture and the collections.

Cave is scaling up one of his vibrant “Soundsuit” figures to 40 feet tall — it will bow toward arriving visitors as part of a mosaic combining glass, wood and metal that wraps around two walls of the entrance court. The fantastical form will be adorned in a costume of flowers with a halo of spinning tops and globes.

“I see this figure as the master of ceremonies that will welcome you,” said Cave, a Chicago-based artist, who titled his piece “Let me introduce myself. They call me MC, Prince Brighton.” A cloudscape with eight Adinkra symbols from West Africa, including ones for unity, peace, truth and courage, surrounds the figure.

Al-Hadid, a Syrian-born, New York-based sculptor, will create a ghostly ziggurat in aluminum rising 15 feet on the East terrace.

“I am interested in the suggestion that this ancient structure might lay stored — in some ways buried — within a very contemporary new building,” she said, explaining that she was inspired by objects in the museum’s collection from near her birthplace in Aleppo and from Turkey.

For a narrow double-height gallery above another entrance, Nguyen has made a 20-foot-high kinetic mobile nodding to Calder. It will dangle over ancient mosaics embedded in the floor from the late 2nd-century A.D., which were discovered during excavations of Antioch in modern Turkey during the 1930s by a Princeton-led team. The polished discs of the mobile are modeled on unexploded ordnance from the Vietnam War that has killed many farmers in the decades since, part of ongoing research by Nguyen, a Vietnam-based visual artist .

“It’s the reincarnation of this bomb material left over from the detritus of war,” said Nguyen, who has designed his sculpture with bells and mallets that will chime in the breeze. “It kind of looks like this rising dragon, responding to the old mosaic of a Medusa on the ground.”

For a small viewing room cantilevered from one of the second-floor pavilions, Irish, who is based in Philadelphia, created “Cosmos Beyond Atrocity,” a Renaissance-style ceiling painting. Inside its architectural coffers, she painted vignettes of violence drawn from the museum’s art collection, including Medea slaying her children, the martyrdom of Saint Sebastian, and Judith beheading Holofernes (so much of the Western canon of art is premised on such images). But her ceiling offers a different vision of the cosmos in the center, based on images of pacifism. The trompe l’oeil composition appears to rip open in the middle, revealing an atmospheric sky, populated with figures from the Vietnam antiwar movement in the United States.

Steward thinks that people walking down the sidewalk “will see this gloriously colored ceiling and want to discover what it is.”

He said he hoped the day would come eventually when the role that Adjaye played in the design of the building could be discussed without tainting the project.

“As a culture, we’re going to have to grapple more successfully with how we deal with the maker versus the work,” Steward said.

“If we were to apply the standards of today to the art of the past, our galleries would probably be decimated.”

An earlier version of this article omitted information about accusations against David Adjaye. He has denied all accusations of sexual misconduct, abuse or criminal wrongdoing.

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