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All of Your Questions About RV Air Conditioners Answered

The basics of safe AC operation begin with ensuring you have ample power supply to run your air conditioner. Before moving on, let’s answer a few questions: 

Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner on 30-amp Power?

If your RV requires 30-amp service, that will be enough to run your RV air conditioner. If your RV has multiple AC units, you’ll likely need 50-amp service to run both (or all) units. If your RV requires a 50-amp service, you may be able to use a 30-amp adapter to run a single air conditioning unit, but not multiple.

Your best bet for safely running your RV’s air conditioner is connecting to the electrical service your RV is designed for.

Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner on 15-amp Power?

Theoretically, 15-amp power is enough to power an average air conditioner. The problem is figuring out whether your specific AC unit is “average.” You’ll need to know the exact amperage required for your unit. If you have a larger unit that draws more than 15 amps, you won’t be able to run your AC on 15-amp power.

Even if your AC draws less than 15 amps, you may be unable to run any additional electrical appliances without overloading the circuit. For example, the combined draws of your AC unit, RV refrigerator, and electric water heater may be enough to trip a breaker. 

There’s also the question of surge watts versus running watts. Even an AC unit that draws less than 15 amps when running may draw more when starting up, resulting in a tripped breaker. 

To combat this issue, some have gotten away with installing a soft-start device or manually soft-start by turning on the fan for about 30 seconds before switching to the lowest AC setting and working your way up from there. 

However, installing soft start devices or manually attempting to operate an AC with less than the designated power supply minimums may void your warranty, cause damage to the equipment, and possibly result in fire. 

Bottom line: your best bet for safely running your RV’s air conditioner is connecting to the electrical service your RV is designed for.

Can I Run My RV Air Conditioner on 120?

Standard 120 electric power supplies about 15 amps. So, running your AC unit while plugged into a standard 120 outlet is possible if your AC draws less than 15 amps and you’re not running too many additional RV appliances simultaneously. 

The problems are the same as running on a 15-amp shore power connection . You’ll need to consider surge watts, you won’t be able to run many other appliances, and you’ll need to know exactly what else is drawing on that circuit. If someone plugs a box fan into an outlet on the same circuit, it could be enough to trip the breaker. 

Safe AC Usage Tips

Now that you’re familiar with AC power considerations, here are a few tips for safe use: 

• Turn off all appliances before starting your air conditioner. AC units draw more when starting up (surge watts) than they do once they’re operating (running watts). Turning off appliances reduces the chances of overloading a circuit when the unit starts. 
• Inspect the shroud regularly. The shroud protects the AC components mounted on your roof. Check it before and after each trip to ensure it isn’t cracked or missing. Cracks allow dust, moisture, and other debris to degrade sensitive AC components.
• Keep doors and windows closed. Minimize the stress on your unit by trapping cool air in and keeping warm air out. 
• Park in the shade. This also reduces how hard your air conditioner needs to work by limiting your RV’s exposure to direct sunlight.

How to Clean an RV Air Conditioner

The basics of safe AC operation begin with regularly inspecting and cleaning the unit’s air filter. Here are some tips to help:

How to Clean an RV Air Conditioner Filter

Inspecting and cleaning your air filter should be done every 3-4 months . To clean the filter, either rinse with water and allow it to dry completely or vacuum out loose debris before rinsing and drying.

Here’s a complete guide to maintaining your RV’s air conditioner for more AC maintenance tips. 

The Top Questions About RV Air Conditioners

Let’s explore these common questions to learn about AC units and how to responsibly cool your RV. 

How Many Amps Does an RV Air Conditioner Use?

The average RV air conditioner draws between 11 and 16 amps, but there are units (smaller and larger) that fall outside that range. Energy efficiency also comes into play. You can have two AC units of the same size, but the more efficient model will usually draw fewer running amps.

Here’s a quick breakdown of average AC amp draw relative to unit size in British thermal units (BTUs):

Amp ratings are listed for 70℉. Add 1 amp for every 10℉ outside temp above 70.  

How Many Watts Does an RV Air Conditioner Use?

Calculating AC wattage requires multiplying amps by voltage. AC units run on a 120-volt circuit, which you can multiply by the unit’s amperage to convert to wattage. You’ll notice that you can also divide a unit’s BTU rating by 10 to get an approximate measure of running wattage.

This is helpful when determining if you can safely run your air conditioner with a generator, which usually offers a wattage rating versus an amperage rating.

Here are some average wattage ratings by AC size: 

Will a 3500-watt Generator Run an RV Air Conditioner?

The short answer is yes, for most. But you’ll need to know your unit’s surge and running watts. Larger units will draw more wattage and may hinder your ability to run other RV appliances , even with a 3500-watt generator. 

Here are some generator size recommendations based on your RV’s electrical demands: 

• 30-Amp RVs: Minimum 3,500-watt generator
• 50-Amp RVs: 6,000 to 8,000 watt generator for RVs with dual ACs; 10,000 to 12,500-watt generator for RVs with three ACs.

Check out more tips for choosing the right size generator for your RV.

How Long Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner?

Most RV air conditioners last 6-8 years if maintained properly. The more diligent you are with service and maintenance, the longer you’ll be able to run your unit. 

When camping, you can run your AC 24 hours a day. You’ll just want to use a modest thermostat setting that allows the compressor to cycle on and off periodically. For larger RVs with two or three units, you can cycle between them to give the units intermittent breaks. 

Having a consistent power source is the most important thing to keep your unit running efficiently. This isn’t an issue when you’re plugged into 30 or 50-amp service , but you’ll be limited to your generator’s run time if powering your AC using an appropriately sized RV generator. 

How Do I Make My RV Air Conditioner Colder?

If your air conditioner isn’t lowering the temperature inside your RV to a comfortable level, here are a few things to try: 

• Adjust the thermostat. It could be as simple as telling your unit you want it to be colder inside your RV.  
• Move to a more shaded location. Reducing your RV’s exposure to direct sunlight will make your AC more effective because it won’t have to work as hard. 
• Add insulation to roof vents and windows. This traps cool air inside instead of allowing it to escape. 
• Clean and/or replace the air filter. Insufficient airflow reduces your air conditioner’s effectiveness. 
• Clean the coils or fins. Clogged condenser or evaporator coils will also reduce AC efficiency. These should be checked and cleaned every other year. 
• Check your power supply. Insufficient power will cause your AC to operate below its cooling capacity. 
• Minimize the number of occupants. Our bodies give off heat. The more people you have inside, the harder your AC works to cool things down. 
• Cook outside. Easier if your RV features an outdoor kitchen, but worth it to keep things cool inside your RV. 
• Shower in the bathhouse. Eliminates steam and condensation from hot water…unless you like cold showers. 
• Minimize the use of appliances and electronics. Every appliance in your RV gives off heat when it’s on. Reducing appliance and electronic usage will make life easier for your air conditioning unit.

Read our complete tutorial on how to improve the performance of your RV’s air conditioner.

What is the Smallest RV Air Conditioner?

Roof-mounted units are the most common type of air conditioner for RVs, but there are also small portable and window-mounted units. These are great options for RVs without AC or for supplementing an existing RV air conditioner. NewAir and EvaPolar are two top brands for small RV air conditioners. 

Find small portable RV air conditioners in our complete selection of RV AC units.  

Can You Add a Thermostat to an RV Air Conditioner?

Most AC units have a built-in thermostat or are wired to a wall-mounted thermostat in your RV. Aftermarket residential thermostats rarely work with RV air conditioners, and while upgrade kits are available, they must be from the AC’s manufacturer and be designed specifically for your unit.

These kits will likely require the installation of additional components that allow them to communicate properly with your AC. If your thermostat needs to be replaced, your best bet is to consult the owner’s manual and wiring diagrams for your model and contact your local Camping World Service Center .

Does RV Height Include the Air Conditioner?

Most RV manufacturers list heights measured from the ground to the highest point, typically your AC unit. A potential exception would be if the base model doesn’t include an air conditioner, but one is available as an upgrade. In that case, the listed height may not include the air conditioner. 

Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner While Driving?

You’ll only be able to run your RV’s air conditioner while driving if it’s equipped with a built-in generator and that generator is running. You should NEVER run a portable generator while driving in an attempt to power your air conditioner. If you’re riding in the cockpit, the dash AC should be enough to keep you and your navigator cool until you reach your destination. 

Hopefully, you know a lot more about air conditioners for RV use, how to use them, and how to ensure they keep your RV cool and comfortable. If you feel like you need to upgrade your AC unit, check out our full collection of RV air conditioners . 

Do you have any additional questions about RV air conditioners? Let us know in the comments below. 

And if you’re still learning the ins and outs of RV maintenance, check out our downloadable RV ownership and maintenance booklet !

• Comment (39)

How can you safely test your ac in the winter time to make sure it is working? Outside high temp is 45°. Inside temp is 65.

I’d like to better understand what you’d like to test. Are you just wanting to fire up your A/C to make sure it’s producing cool air? Or are you interested in testing temperature, air flow, and sound output?

I’ve seen folks use an anemometer (air speed) and a decibel meter to test their A/C’s operation in addition to a “feel test” to ensure it’s producing cold air. Let me know what exactly you’re wanting to test and I can hopefully provide further direction.

We have a 2009 Winnebago Vista 26P. The a/c was working fine at home and we drove to a campground an hour away and now it won’t cool. Campground checks all electric outlets and they were fine. We checked all breakers and fuses and they are all good. Is there a rest button somewhere for this a/c?

Hi, not sure if this helps but, I ran into that issue myself and found that if the a/c fan is not set to auto and the high speed fan is on, then the until won’t cycle the compressor on just causing air to blow from the high fan setting. That’s how I learned about both my G.E. a/c units. God bless

I reached out to our technical service team to get their thoughts. Here’s their reply:

Did it work when you got back home? There are many reasons that the power at the campground may have caused the problem: low voltage, reverse polarity, open ground, or even high voltage. Next time this happens, unplug the shore cord and try it with the onboard generator. If it works, the campground power is the issue. If nothing works at all since the trip, the outlet at the campground or an RV upstream could have been supplying 240VAC resulting in damage to the system. Did you leave the battery disconnects on while camping? The A/C system requires 12VDC for control power.

Let us know if you have any follow up questions!

I have an older Domitic (1993) forced air. On the inside of unit I remove the filter, then the plastic cover. There is the control box that has the wiring coming out of it. There is one with plug on it. Where does it plug in? Thanks.

Can you find a model number or any other identifying information on your unit?

With that, I can attempt to look through Dometic’s archived manuals to see if I can find the applicable one for your unit.

Jayco 195 2023 AC. Turn off them self . Ac stop all And I can’t turn it on.

What should I do?

Can you tell me a little more about the symptoms? Are any other electrical components impacted?

Have you checked all breakers and fuses on your RV’s circuit panel?

Your best bet may be to schedule an A/C diagnostic at your local service center: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations

Hi I have an Arctic Fox Silver 5th wheel and lately with the warmer weather we are having the single 13,500 btu unit is not quite up to it as well. The unit is pre-wired for a second unit in the bedroom which would take the place of the fantastic fan there. I have just started to look into doing this and it can be a bit confusing. I am handy enough to do this install myself as it’s pre-wired and the hole is already there. I’m trying to get my head wrapped around what I will need to purchase. I think I would need the compressor unit with cover for the exterior and just the control cover inside with it being vented only from that part of it, correct ? Only other thing would be the btu,’s needed for the second unit. I believe the area of this RV is 295 and I wouldn’t really need another 13,500 unit but maybe around 10,000 btu’s ? Also the next question is what brand or model should I be looking for and any advantage of looking at the heat pump style of unit, thanks in advance !

Will a ac unit and a heater unit from a 2008 Sunnybrook Bristol bay fit a 1997 travel supreme ??? Mine went out and they are parting out the 2008 ???

This is a tough one to answer. The short answer is probably, “I’d need more information on the makes of the specific appliances.” But I reached out to our technical service team to see if they had any thoughts. Here’s their reply:

In general, all manufacturers have many different models. They will have a chart on their respective webpages to show which components are compatible with one another. Be aware that most roof air conditioners are a three-part system: the roof unit, ceiling assembly, and thermostat and all must be properly matched. The prewiring in the coach must also match the set up. Even if all three are the same in both units, the 11 year separation will likely mean the revisions are incompatible.

You can also reach out to our renovation department to get their opinion or ask any follow up questions: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-collision-renovation

Hi I have a fifth wheel I have been having trouble with my air conditioner in the front bed room it shut off when it 98 out side and when it get cooler at night it still sometime shuts off what could be wrong with it and how could I fix it

Your best bet is to schedule an AC diagnostic at your nearest RV service center. Here’s where you can find the location that’s most convenient for you: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations

Hope that helps!

Great post! Air Conditioners truly bring a breath of fresh air to the world of mobile living. Your blog eloquently captures the significance of these cooling champions that turn caravans into comfortable sanctuaries even on the hottest days.

Hi David! We have a 2013 Tiffin Allegro Red with two roof top ACs (Coleman Mach 8). When connected to shore power, they work fine. When boondocking, they work fine using the generator. However; when we run them while driving using the generator, they cool for the first 10-15 miles, but then warm air starts blowing out. We’ve tried driving at slower speeds; we’ve tried only running one AC and closing doors in the rear of the coach. We start the engine, then generator, wait a few, then turn AC on to HI. We’ve taken it to a few places, but no one can figure out why. We are in 100 degree heat, so I don’t expect it to cool down drastically. Any suggestions?

Hi Jennifer,

Sorry for the delayed reply, but I wanted to reach out to our technical service team to get their thoughts. Here’s their reply:

We wish we could get our hands on it for a better look, but the system is pretty basic. You’ve already established that the shore power, generator power, and air conditioners work great when stationary, so it pretty much has to be related to airflow over the roof units. Things that come to mind are a speed induced vacuum or pressurization that starves the condenser fan and reduces or stops airflow across the outside coil. The same pressure anomalies could cause cooled discharge air to be forced into the return air plenum resulting in icing of the inside coil. The freeze probe in the inside coil might also sense temperatures below the cut off point due to this cold air infiltration which would result in the compressor shutting down.

You might benefit from scheduling an AC diagnostic at one of our service centers: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations

My Colman/ Mach AC unit runs great with my 3500 inverter or on my shore power 15 amp outlet. Recently my shore power breaker trips several times and eventually will start the AC. Also my inverter struggles to start the unit as well. I purchased my used trailer 3 years ago, it is 2011 Sprinter so I have no idea how old the AC unit is. Do I need to replace the unit or replace an internal part?

I’d have several follow up questions, but the easiest path is probably scheduling an appointment for an AC diagnostic: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

The techs will perform several tests to pinpoint the issue and recommend the best path forward.

Hope that’s helpful!

I am plugged into shore power but when the power went out during a storm my AC did not kick back on when the power came back and I lost the time on the microwave….does that mean my batteries are low or shot?

It’s more likely that you popped a circuit breaker or blew a fuse when the power went out. Have you checked the breaker on the shore power source, as well as the breakers and fuses on your RV’s circuit panel?

Our AC units, the main one in particular, don’t seem to be cooling well in the triple digit temperatures here in Texas. Our 5th wheel is parked for the next two years with shade unavailable. Is this normal in extreme heat?

Yes, this is normal operation for what you are describing. Try starting your AC earlier in the day, run the fan speed on high, and verify even air flow from all vents (you can use an anemometer for this). The main unit may need servicing. From your description, we’re guessing that the main unit is in the main living area and the other unit is only cooling the bedroom? RV ACs are only expected to cool 20 degrees less that the ambient temp within the RV.

If yours continues to struggle, I’d schedule a service appointment: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

When selecting a generator for your AC unit, compare the starting and running wattage to the generator’s capacity. Simply refer to the AC unit specifications to make an informed decision. In general, a 2,000 to 4,000-watt or higher generator should suffice for most RV AC units.

While RV is in storage or stored outside Is it necessary Tory your AC from time to time?

We have a 2022 Coachmen Sportscoach and the a/c runs great on power but when we try to run it while traveling using the generator the a/c won’t run.

I ran your question by a few of our technicians and they’d have several follow up questions. They replied that a quick test would be to see if both breakers on the gen set are in the on position. They’d guess that a circuit breaker is popped on the generator not allowing it to provide power to that circuit, but it’s always hard to guess without all the facts.

Your safest bet is to schedule a service appointment for a general AC diagnostic: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

Do I need to have my slides open to run air conditioner, I just cooling things down while getting ready to travel and cooling the Refrigerator.

Hi Richard!

Your slide-outs don’t need to be open for you to run your A/C. Hope that helps!

Hi Richard, we have a 28ft Pioneer it has a 13500 ac we can never get the temp below 79 it is very hot in this thing. Would a 15,000 btu make much of a difference? We only have 30 amp service in the RV

When is the last time you had your A/C inspected or serviced?

You may need to have our service team diagnose this issue, as an A/C that size in a unit of that length should be capable of cooling it below that temperature. Here’s the link to where you can contact our service team to schedule an appointment: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

I am having trouble with my 2023 Astoria FW. We have two a/c units (one in the main bedroom up front and one in the back bedroom) and have been running them for about 3 hours now. Both bedrooms are cool, but the living room/kitchen area in the middle of the rig is still soooo warm. Even with the I interior doors open so let the air flow through, the middle area will not cool down. All windows are closed and we have even tried opening the vent on the roof to see if that helps, but it is now working!

It really should go back to the dealer for inspection and testing. It sounds like all of the airflow is going to the ends as it follows the path of least resistance. The dealer will be able to determine if the vents are in the correct locations, that there are the required number, and that there are no obstructions. It may be necessary to add additional vents or baffles to balance the airflow and by default, comfort zones.

Here’s where you can find the dealership nearest you: https://rv.campingworld.com/locations

Hope that helps, but let us know if you have any follow up questions!

My ac stopped working while battling the three didget heat wave here. Now it will not turn back on. I can hear it click as if it were going to come on but then it doesn’t and no air blowing out? Please help me, what is the problem?

Hi Kimberly,

Have you checked your fuses and breakers?

Your best bet is to contact your local Camping World Service Center to schedule an AC inspection: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance

Let me know how it all works out!

I replaced a control box so that my turnstyle ac knobs are converted to thermostat controlled ac, propane furnace and heat strip. When testing, my newer Mach 3 Plus fan works on low and high but the ac won’t kick on. I ran a 30amp to 20 amp adapter to a 20 amp power cord and plugged in to 20amp plug at my rv storage area. No other electrical appliances were used during test. Any thoughts? Thanks much.

I reached out to our technical team and here’s their reply:

There are a bunch of conversion kits for various models and brands of A/C’s. Without specifics, it’s hard to say for sure, but it’s possible that one or more wires were not connected properly. Even if you followed the directions precisely, there may be a slight variation in his actual product from the instructions. Also, there may be DIP switches or terminal jumpers that are improperly configured.

Your best bet might be to schedule an AC diagnostic at one of our service centers: https://rv.campingworld.com/rv-service-maintenance#js-anchor-locations

But let me know if you have any follow up questions!

I have a new 5th wheel coach with 3 of the dometic low profile ACs I recently noticed that if the power goes off, and back on, they don’t auto reset and come back on until you physically turn them on. Is there a setting or something to change this? Thank You

There are quite a few logic control systems on the market that manufacturers are utilizing to control today’s systems, acting as the thermostat if you will. Most are all 12-volt DC controlled. This being said, as long as the 12-volt DC remains when the shore power goes away, this should not happen. I would first ensure that the RV’s DC batteries are turned on while using shore power, this way if the shore power goes away the DC logic control system can retain the AC programming. If all is good there, I would need more info on the particular logic control system or thermostats.

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Can You Run the RV A/C While Driving?

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Updated March 31, 2024

I don’t know about you, but I can’t stand being too hot. And sometimes on super hot days I just can’t get cool enough while driving our RV. So I was wondering if I could run the RV rooftop AC while I was driving to help keep me and the rest of the RV nice and cool.

Of course, I did some research, and I was very happy to learn that the answer is YES! It is perfectly fine to run the RV A/C while driving!

Now when we drive on hot days, I stay cool, and we keep a blanket in the front seat so Susan can stay warm.

When I told Susan I was researching for the article, she asked me a bunch of questions about it. Do you have to run the generator while driving to run the A/C? Do you need a propane generator to run the A/C? Is it safe to run the generator? Is it cost-effective?

Well, we will answer all of these questions and more in the article ahead. So keep reading to learn how to stay cool while running the rooftop A/C while driving on hot days.

Why Would I Want to Run the Rooftop A/C While Driving?

This seems like a good place to begin the article. There are several reasons why you might need some additional A/C to stay cool while you are driving. And the type of RV you drive may play a role, as well.

One reason you may want to run the A/C when you are driving is that it may be so hot outside that the dash air conditioning just isn’t strong enough to keep you cool. This happened to us while we were driving in Death Valley, California, but it could happen anywhere.

The reason this happens is that the dash air has to keep the driving cabin cool while overcoming the heat from the back of the RV too.

Another reason you may want to run the rooftop air conditioner is to have more engine power when you are driving through mountains on hot days. Running the dash air puts a strain on the engine when climbing uphill. In order to get more engine power, I will turn off the dash A/C and run the rooftop A/C so we can stay cool and maintain a decent speed on the uphill climbs in mountain areas.

And finally, you may have passengers on board and the dash A/C will not keep the back of the RV cool enough to keep them comfortable. So, this is a great time to run the rooftop A/C and keep everyone cool and happy.

Does the Type of RV Make a Difference?

Yes, the type of RV (Class A versus Class C) does make a difference. We have a Class C RV so we have a couple of advantages just because of the design of the RV.

First of all, the windshield is shielded from the sun by the over the cab bunk, which extends out over the windshield like a giant visor. Also, the Class C design allows us to put the cabin curtain up behind us while we drive. This creates a smaller area for the dash A/C to cool while we drive.

Class A RVs are a different story. The windshield is huge and unshielded from the sun so the cab can heat up quite a bit. Also, separating the cab from the rest of the RV in Class A is more difficult.

Therefore, the dash A/C has to cool the cabin and some of the warmer air from the back of the RV to keep the driver cool. Although Class A RVs usually have fans around the windshield that can help to keep the front cabin area cool, on very hot sunny days, the fans may not be enough.

Do I Have to Run the Generator to Run The Rooftop A/C?

Yes, you have to run the generator to run the rooftop air conditioner. You have two different air conditioning systems in your RV. One is the dash air, just like your car’s A/C. It is powered by your engine and blows warm or cool air through the vents.

The other air conditioning system in your RV is the rooftop air conditioner, which runs off of electricity. So, you can actually run your dash A/C and rooftop A/C at the same time. And in fact, many people do just that.

There are two sources of electricity for your rooftop A/C. One is shore power, which is where you would plug the RV power cord into the electric receptacle at a campground, for example.

The other source of electricity that can power your rooftop A/C is the generator onboard your RV. Whether your generator is powered by propane or gasoline it produces electricity, which in turn, powers your A/C unit.

Is It Safe To Run The Generator While Driving?

Yes, running the RV generator while driving your RV is perfectly safe. However, you should know a couple of things to ensure you don’t have any problems.

If the generator is gasoline-powered, you should be sure to fill up the gas tank before driving with the generator on. The generator uses the same gasoline from the same gas tank that the RV uses to fuel the engine.

You probably won’t run out of gas while driving, but the generator will automatically cut off if the fuel tank drops below 1/4 tank. This is a safety feature built into most generators to ensure that all of the fuel in the gas tank isn’t used up just powering the generator. The safety feature helps prevent a situation where you end up stranded in the middle of nowhere with no gas in the gas tank.

If your generator is fueled by propane, then you should be aware of state or local laws that may prohibit the use of propane while driving. For example, in Maryland, where we live, you can’t run a propane generator while going through the harbor tunnel.

Check out the video below for more info. RVTravel and The RV Doctor put together this quick informative video.

Is it fuel efficient enough to run the rooftop A/C while driving?

Sorry, but I wouldn’t say running the rooftop A/C while driving is fuel-efficient. A gas generator will burn about 1/2 gallon per hour, and I doubt your fuel mileage will increase enough to compensate for the generator’s fuel consumption. But, in mountain conditions, turning off the dash air while climbing hills could make the break-even point a little closer.

The main reason for running the A/C while driving is simply comfort. If you are on vacation or a full-time RVer, why forego the creature comforts of home like A/C and roast while you are driving. We put thousands and thousands of miles a year on our RV, and we certainly don’t want to be uncomfortable while driving.

Final Thoughts about Running the RV A/C While Driving

Driving with the generator and rooftop A/C on is perfectly safe and will help you stay cool and comfortable while driving your RV. Even though it is not the most fuel-efficient way to drive your RV, you and any passengers on board will be cooler and happier on very hot days.

I hope you found this article to be helpful for staying cool in hot weather while driving your RV.

Do you have an idea or suggestion to share about how to stay cool while driving in hot weather? Please leave your comments below!

If you would like to contact us directly, please feel free to visit our Contact Page and send us an email.

Learn More:

– How to Maximize Your RV A/C Performance – WackO RV A/C Silencer: A Quieter Cooler RV A/C – Can I Run The RV Generator While Driving? – Will My RV Air Conditioner Run on 110 Electric Power – Can Solar Panels Really Power an RV Air Conditioner?

To see a list of all of our articles check out the Blog Archive !

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Mike Scarpignato created RVBlogger.com over five years ago in 2018 to share all we have learned about RV camping.

Mike is an avid outdoorsman with decades of experience tent camping and traveling in his 2008 Gulf Stream Conquest Class C RV and 2021 Thor Challenger Class A motorhome.

We attend RV Shows and visit RV dealerships all across the country to tour and review drivable motorhomes and towable trailers to provide the best evaluations of these RVs in our blog articles and YouTube videos.

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11 thoughts on “Can You Run the RV A/C While Driving?”

We tried doing this on a very hot day, but both ac’s blew warm air while we were driving running the generator. When we pulled over and restarted the ac’s, they were cooling while we were parked. When we started driving on the road, more warm air from ac. We asked several techs, but no one can tell us why. ACs run fine on shore power and while parked when using generator, but nnot while driving. 2013 Tiffin Allegro Red.

Great information! What happens if you are in an RV park in the summer but you don’t have any electric hookup and need to cool down your coach? If there is designated “quiet time” in the campsite what do you do?

Hi Salvatore,

I’ve been in this situation where I was boondocking and it was too hot. In that situation, I left and found a campground with electricity so I could turn on my AC. If I couldn’t do that and I couldn’t run my generator we use a large battery and a fan that we keep on board.

We can use the Schumacher Instant Power Station to plug things in, it all has USB ports to charge our phones and camera gear, and an air compressor, and an air pump to blow up air mattresses and it can jump start the battery that powers the RV engine. It does a lot and I highly recommend you keep one on board too. Here’s the link to find it on Amazon too https://amzn.to/3nfWCTW

It will power our fan overnight and then when we can turn the generator on after quiet hours we recharge it so we can use it again!

Your article was very informative, but (you knew that was coming). My 40′ Itasca Class A does not have a roof AC. It is in the “basement”. Actually under the bed in the right rear. Anything different in running a “roof air” vs running a “basement” AC?

Thank you so much for this invaluable information…we drove in suffocating heat yesterday and couldn’t keep our coach cool because we didn’t know we could run the rooftop AC! In 100 degree weather, is there danger in overheating the generator while driving?

Not on a modern generator. I leave the Phx area every July heading for cooler climates. Often it is 115deg+ and I run the coach AC’s off my onan marque gold 5400 without difficulties. The generator has an Overtemp shutdown safety. I’ve never triggered it. Once when it was 118deg I couldn’t get the coach cooler than 80deg while driving. Better than the alternative. Having said this, I do run full synthetic oil in the generator because of its better heat handling qualities. It makes me feel better. Not sure it really matters. My generator has over 1,200 hours on it.

My class A is gas engine up front. One thing to consider. If you get into slow traffic. The engine puts out a lot of heat plus the road is hot. The generator is using this air to cool itself. It may overheat.

Hi Stan, That is a really good point. Thanks for sharing! Mike

Thanks for the info! I plan on becoming a full time Rver in the future so I’m trying to gain as much knowledge as I can.

Hi Jennifer, I’m glad you found the info helpful. If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to email me directly or leave your question in the comments section. Thanks very much for letting me know you like the information! Mike

I too enjoyed your blog. My husband said you could run generator and ac while driving, but I didn’t believe him .I do you.

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RV With Tito

DIY tips, upgrades, and gear for a self-reliant RV lifestyle. Learn about RV solar power and boondocking while learning to perform your own RV maintenance and upgrades to save money.

How Much Power Do RV Air Conditioners Use, and Which RV Air Conditioners Are Most Efficient?

RV air conditioners are notorious for being the largest power consumers in modern RVs. When running they can draw between 700 watts (for a 10,000 BTU unit) all the way up to 1,500 watts (for a 15,000 BTU unit). In fact, at startup they can draw more than double that amount of power.

If you’re in the market for a new RV air conditioner, consider one of the high-efficiency models discussed here. There are several benefits of doing so. 

Benefits of Using an Efficient RV Rooftop Air Conditioner

Power more appliances when plugged in.

You’ll use less energy when plugged in at a campground leaving a surplus to run other appliances.

Use a Smaller Generator

A small generator can run your air conditioner and use less fuel when muggy, stifling heat makes you reach for the nearest neck cooling pad. 

Run an Air Conditioner on Solar Power and Lithium Batteries

Yes . It’s possible with the right off-grid setup. This used to be a crazy thought in the past. Now it’s more common than you think. An RV equipped with a properly sized battery bank, power inverter, and solar array can run a high efficiency air conditioner for several hours.

You’re Saving the World

Think green! Using less power means you’re helping to save the world, one watt at a time.

Are Energy Ratings Required for RV Air Conditioners?

No . There is no such mandate for RV rooftop air conditioners. There isn’t even a standard industry test. This makes comparing efficiency a real challenge.

Unlike RV air conditioners, standard window mounted air conditioners by law must have an Energy Guide label with a SEER or EER number. The higher the EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio), the more efficient it is.  

Only a few manufacturers publish their EER ratings. 

• General Electric 13.5k Rooftop A/C: EER = 5.9
• Furrion Chill 14.5k BTU Rooftop A/C: EER = 7.97

I put on my Sherlock Holmes monocle and trudged through the technical manuals of a dozen popular RV air conditioners, sleuthing for efficiency data.

After comparing the power draw from the top 12 RV air conditioners, I concluded that the average EER rating was roughly 6.0. That ain’t great. It’s half the legal minimum for a residential A/C system.

Thankfully, the major manufacturers all offer “ high-performance ” or “ high-efficiency ” AC models. Smaller industry competitors, like Advent Air and General Electric, do not. 

Best Energy-Efficient RV Air Conditioners

These models boast 25-40% better efficiency – but what does that mean?

• Will your rig get 25% colder?
• Will it cool down to the same temperature 25% faster?
• Will cooling performance stay exactly the same but use 25% less power?

That depends. It’s likely to be a combination of these factors.

Let’s take a look at my top picks. 

Atwood Air Command

The Atwood Air Command (according to Atwood) is reported to be equivalent to a regular 16k BTU air conditioner due to its upgraded compressor and dual-fan design. If you want to freeze out the family, you might purchase one of these. 

The Air Command is also super quiet.

Coleman-Mach 3 Power Saver

The Coleman-Mach 3 Power Saver provides cooling performance similar to the Atwood Air Command but with less power draw. It’s also a whopping 55 percent more efficient than Coleman’s Mach 3 Plus Signature Series model.

Furrion Chill

The Furion Chill claims to be 25% more efficient than competing single-fan models. It falls somewhere in the middle, offering both increased cooling performance and less power draw.

Dometic Penguin II High Efficiency (Low Profile)

The Dometic Penguin II High Efficiency is an ultra-low profile air conditioner. It’s not the most efficient unit on this list, but your choices are limited in the high-efficiency/low-profile category. 

How To Make Your RV Air Conditioner More Energy Efficient

Clean your air filter regularly.

Cleaning your intake air filter regularly will help ensure airflow is not blocked by dust and grime.

Install a Soft Start Device in Your Air Conditioner

Air conditioners draw a huge amount of energy at startup before settling down to a normal operating mode. This initial surge can be twice the amount of power than during normal operation.

A soft start device can easily be installed to eliminate that initial surge. The MicroAir EasyStart and RV Soft Start are two popular soft start devices available for a DIY install. The improvement is significant.

Eliminate that initial surge and you’ll only need a small 1800 Watt portable generator or 2000 Watt power inverter to power your air conditioner.

Insulate Your Windows

The windows in your RV let in a lot of heat especially when the sun is shining on them. Attaching some Reflectix Insulation with a little Velcro inside your windows will help keep the heat out. You’re air conditioner won’t need to work so hard to maintain the temperature.

Position Your RV Away From The Sun

If possible, position your RV so the hot sun passes overhead and not directly into your side windows. Extend your awning as needed to shade your windows as well.

What About a Mini-Split Air Conditioner?

Lastly I leave you with a brilliant DIY hack. Install a mini-split instead. Mini split air conditioners are nearly silent and three times as efficient as any rooftop RV unit . 

Unlike standard RV air conditioners, a mini-split separates the air conditioner into two components. The condenser unit is mounted outside and the evaporator component is mounted inside the space to be cooled. Refrigerant and electrical lines run between the two components. 

Mini splits have become very popular in tiny homes and in apartments. Some RV owners are even ditching their rooftop unit and installing a mini-split. Why? They are quiet and require less power to operate. Just do a quick search on YouTube and you’ll find several real-world examples of this.

How You Might Install a Mini-Split Air Conditioner in an RV

• First: Mount the interior handler (evaporator) on a sturdy cabinet or on the wall
• Second: Install the condenser unit in the RV basement or other location with adequate air flow
• Third: Connect the two units with a refrigerant line system.
• Fourth: Open the basement for airflow when parked, turn on the A/C, and enjoy nearly silent cooling!
• Finally, get rid of your old A/C or use it as a boat anchor

What do you think? Will mini-splits become standard in luxury RVs, or will manufacturers stick with tried n’ true rooftop air conditioners?

Using less energy is always a good thing, especially for air-conditioning. But it’s more than just doing your part for the environment and leaving a smaller carbon footprint. 

Let’s face it, air-conditioning your RV while off-grid is no longer a pipe dream. Large solar arrays, lithium batteries, and high-efficiency air conditioners have made powering an air conditioner without a generator possible. In fact, many RV owners are doing it.

If you’re in the market for a more efficient replacement A/C unit, then I hope this article helped you understand your options.

Author : Ross ( The RV Engineer ) – As an RV Engineer and blogger Ross helps demystify the inner workings of modern RVs and campers. Visit AskTheRVEngineer.com for analysis, RV tech talk, DIY mods and more from Ross. 

• URL: Dometic Atwood AirCommand – 13,500 BTU Standard Profile Rooftop Heat Pump, Ducted Application | Dometic.com
• URL: 15.5K Rooftop unit for Furrion Chill™ Air Conditioner System – Black | Furrion.com
• URL: Microsoft Word – 482X3-8XX Data Sheet.doc ( airxcel.com )
• URL: Microsoft Word – 482X8C9XX Data Sheet ( airxcel.com )
• URL: Coleman-mach Powersaver Series | Airxcel.com
• URL: Dometic RV Air Conditioners | Dometic.com

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How Long Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner?

Sometimes, you want to boondock or camp where there isn’t any available electricity. This has some people wondering how long can you run an RV air conditioner?

You can run your RV air conditioner off your generator for as long as you have gasoline in your tank. Since generators use very little gas, many people will run their air conditioning all night without issue.

But there’s a lot more to know about running your RV air conditioner than that!

We boondocked at a Walmart parking lot just a week ago. In our case, we ran the heat since it was chilly. It was on all night (both of them). My tank had just been filled up before parking, and when I checked the gauge in the morning, I couldn’t even tell if it had moved.

That’s how good the generator is at fuel efficiency (and the fridge was powered off of it too). But we’ll explain how it works, and how you’ll know how long you can run yours. Just keep reading!

Can I run my RV AC all night?

Yes. You can run your RV air conditioner all night either from a generator or if you are connected to a 50 amp hookup where you are parked. And most generators can run your AC all night using very little gasoline.

But if you have a roof air conditioner, which you probably do, you may find yourself surprised at how inefficient it is.

Roof air conditioners can only cool the ambient temperature inside about 20 degrees, even if it’s working perfectly. So if you’re in a really hot area, you’re going to want your air conditioning to function at optimal levels.

There are a few things you can do to optimize your RV air conditioner’s performance.

• Make sure your filters are clean and unobstructed. They can be blown out with an air compressor. Or they can be washed gently with lukewarm water and a mild detergent. Rinse well and let dry overnight.
• Make sure the air return is clear as well.
• Make sure condenser coils are not obstructed or pinched. This ensures the fan will blow hot air to the outside.
• Make sure you have at least 115 volts of AC power going to the unit. The unit will still operate at a lower voltage, but not at maximum capacity.
• Keep the windows shut, and the blinds closed during the day. This keeps as much cool air in as possible. It also keeps the heat out.
• Finally, and probably the easiest thing to do, park in the shade. Getting out of the sun means your unit won’t have to work as hard. It also means your rig will get cooler.

In short, if you want to run your RV air conditioner all night, make sure it’s maintained properly and that you park in the shade.

That will allow the air conditioner to work hard without working harder than it has to.

My greenroom RV – with catering at my door no less! #aircon #feelingspecial pic.twitter.com/xYg4WbDu13 — Kimberley Wintle (@Wimblekimble) May 23, 2014

Can you run an RV AC on the battery?

No. Most RVs will not be able run an air conditioner off battery power. While many RVs do have more than 1 battery, it is not typically enough power to operate an air conditioning unit, and many RVs have 2 or more AC units.

Air conditioning requires a lot of electricity just to get started. It also involves a lot of electricity to keep running for just an hour.

Most newer RVs come equipped with a 15,000 BTU air conditioning unit. These units need a minimum of 3,500 watts to get the unit started. Then, it takes about 1,500 watts to keep it running.

Most RVs don’t come with an inverter. A nd the ones that do come with an inverter that ranges from 1,000 watts to 2,000 watts.

This is not enough juice to convert your battery power to usable AC electricity. You will need at least a 4,000-watt DC-to-AC power inverter.

Only the higher-end, larger fifth-wheel trailers, Class A motorhomes, and higher-end Class B vans come equipped with power inverters.

And most of those come with two or three air conditioning units. This means you will need a power inverter as high as 7,000 watts to start and run the air conditioning.

If you want to run your air conditioning off battery power, you would need three 100 AH (amp-hour) Lithium Ion-Phosphate batteries, about 1,500 watts of solar panels , and a 7,000-watt power inverter.

This would run two 15,000 BTU air conditioning units for about an hour. To get 8 hours of running time, you will need about eight lithium batteries. That’s 240 pounds of batteries alone.

You will also need solar panels to recharge the batteries.

With batteries, solar panels, and other miscellaneous parts, you’re looking at spending upwards of $12,000 just to run two air conditioning units for only 8 hours per day.

I’ve got the best hubby ever, aircon in our rv is playing up so off he goes on a fan hunt, this is all he could find but boy they’re good 💖💖💖💖 pic.twitter.com/d4xbq4t4Ke — tanya rolls (@rocketsgal) August 7, 2020

Can I run my RV air conditioner on 110?

Technically, 110v is enough to power an RV air conditioner . However, most are hardwired into the RV and not easily just plugged into a 110v outlet. Most RVs are designed to be connected to 50 amp, or 30 amp connectors supplied by the campground.

But there are a few things you need to be aware of when using 110.

Firstly, you should be aware of how RV electricity works. Typically, homes run on AC, and vehicles run on DC type of current. Luckily, most RVs come with both DC and a system to hook up AC, such as when you are plugging into a home outlet.

A typical household electrical socket is 15 amps. This means you’ll need a 30 amp adapter like this one on Amazon , so you can get the full 30 amps needed to run your air conditioning.

If your RV AC does have an accessible cord, then it would be best if you also used a heavy-duty extension cord to plug into the 110v outlet. Using the wrong kind of cord could not only be a fire hazard, but it won’t pull the amperage you need.

Secondly, run the A/C on the lowest setting.

On average, roof air conditioners pull 12-16 amps. Then when it kicks in, it will draw up to 7 times the number of amps than it does while it’s just running. It needs to be on the lowest setting so that the A/C kicking surge doesn’t risk damage to your RV or the home.

Finally, the only thing running should be the air conditioner. Don’t run anything else in the RV while the air conditioning is running on a home outlet.

Today is the reason you need this. And ours are working perfectly! #aircon #rimor #motorhome #hottestdayoftheyear pic.twitter.com/mX4VlmPgZX — Go Explore Scotland (@GoExploreScot) July 19, 2016

How much gas does an RV air conditioner use?

You can run the AC in your RV on a generator for 8 hours and not likely use more than 2 gallons of gas. And diesel-operated generators burn even less fuel than unleaded gas.

If you are camping off-grid or don’t want to run your air conditioner off of electricity, you can use a portable generator. Portable generators are great because you can run more than just the air conditioning, unlike using a 110 outlet.

The three most common types of generators are diesel, LP, and gasoline.

Of course, the more load you have, the more fuel you will use. So if you just want to run the air conditioning, you won’t burn as much fuel as if you were running the refrigerator, coffee maker, and TV at the same time.

When considering an RV, there are a few factors to consider.

Diesel-operated generators burn cleaner than gasoline or propane. And both diesel or unleaded generators in an RV will typically use the same gas tank as the motor.

When properly cared for, you can get 1,000 or more hours out of both propane and diesel before they need to be overhauled.

You may also want to consider flammability. Gasoline and propane are highly flammable, while diesel is the least flammable.

Noise levels are also something to consider. Propane generators are usually the least noisy, whereas diesel generators are the noisiest.

But I can attest, that with the generator on and the windows closed, the generator noise is pretty minimal on any somewhat modern RV.

This is a great time to repair your RV air conditioning unit before you need it this coming year. #rvrepair #rvaircondtioning #rvairconditioner #texas #bellville #houston #camping pic.twitter.com/6MJvmESKvA — madrvrepair (@madrvrepair) October 15, 2018

Can you run an RV air conditioner while driving?

Yes. You can use both the dash air conditioner as well as the rooftop air conditioner while driving. The dash air conditioning can always be running as long as the engine is on. The rooftop air conditioner will require the generator to be on to provide its power.

In fact, it may be a good thing to run your air conditioning while you are driving.

Just like any motor-driven thing, if your generator isn’t used frequently enough, it will fail to work or need repairs more frequently.

For my family, the generator is almost always on except when we are parked at a campsite and connected to hookups. That’s because my daughters not only like to watch TV while I’m driving but more importantly because the fridge is powered by the generator unless we’re connected.

Oftentimes, people underutilize their generators because campsites provide electricity. So using it while driving can increase the usage to help keep it in good working order.

Final thoughts

You can run your RV air conditioner for long periods, including all night when using electricity or your generator.

If you really want to run your RV air conditioner on battery power, it’s going to require quite an extensive set up with Lithium-Ion Phosphate batteries, solar panels, and a power inverter.

It is possible to run the air conditioning on a 110 outlet. Just be careful and follow proper procedures. Generators are necessary if you want to camp in hot areas and want to use the air conditioning.

In order to keep your generator in good working order , consider running it while you are driving.

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Jeff Campbell

Jeff Campbell travels on and off with his 3 daughters in a Newmar Baystar Class A Motorhome. He writes extensively on both RVs, campgrounds, parenting on the road tips, remote learning & schooling, and much more! Click Here to learn more about me. Click Here to learn more about my site. Editorial Policies.

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5 Things You Need To Know About RV AC Maintenance

• Maintenance, Modifications and Repairs

How RV A/C Maintenance Makes Camping Better

Taking care of your RV is important for ensuring it lasts for years and years of camping fun. Obviously, this means cleaning and resealing the body of your RV, but it also means maintaining the appliances within your RV.

One of the most important appliances to keep in good shape is your air conditioning unit, meaning RV AC maintenance should definitely make its way onto your to-do list every 6 months or so. 

Wondering what you need to know about RV AC maintenance? You’ve come to the right place! In this article, we will cover the top 5 things you should know about maintaining the air conditioner on your trailer or motorhome so you can ensure you stay nice and cool on all of your camping adventures. 

1. Inspect the RV A/C Cover

The first thing you’ll notice when looking at your air conditioner from the outside is the plastic shroud or cover that goes over the unit. This cover is more important than you might imagine.

It isn’t just for covering up the unit and making your RV more aesthetically pleasing. Nope, this cover also protects your RV AC unit from dirt, debris, and other foreign objects that might want to make their way inside. Additionally, it helps prevent low-hanging limbs from damaging the unit should you drive under them. 

Unfortunately, these shrouds tend to become damaged over time. Bright sunlight can cause the plastic AC covers to become brittle, making it easy for them to crack and break. Of course, driving under low-hanging branches and other objects that may scrape can also cause damage, as can hail. 

Because it’s so common for AC shrouds to become damaged, it’s important that you peek at yours a couple times a year to ensure it’s still in good shape and able to do its job. 

2. Check for A/C leaks

When you own an RV, water is your worst enemy. Even the smallest leak can cause damage over time, meaning it’s imperative to take care of areas where water can enter your rig as quickly as possible. 

One place where many people don’t know to watch for leaks is around the AC unit. RV air conditioners are set into a big hole in the roof, and rather than being sealed with the usual caulk-type sealant, they are designed to keep water out with a rubber ring. This ring must be properly placed, tightened down, and free of damage to function properly, meaning it isn’t unheard of for it to let water in. To make matters worse, RV air conditioners produce a lot of water themselves. This means it isn’t just rainwater that can sneak in under that seal. 

In order to ensure you aren’t a victim of water leaks around the AC, check the rubber ring for damage or wear every 6 months or so. While you’re at it, tighten the screws that hold your air conditioner in place. 

3. Straight fins are key

If you remove the shroud from your AC, you will notice a set of metal fins on the unit. These fins are very delicate and can get bent out of shape over time.

Because the AC unit works best when the fins are straight and free of debris, it’s a good idea to use a comb to very carefully straighten any bent fins, and a vacuum to get rid of dirt. You can also spray the fins with a spray bottle of water and mild soap. Like the other RV AC maintenance tasks on this list, this should be done every 6 months or so. 

4. Recharging isn’t possible

When a typical house air conditioner stops working properly, it could be that the unit needs to be recharged. However, this isn’t the case with RV air conditioners. These units cannot be recharged, so if you’re having problems with one, you will need to look elsewhere for a solution. 

5. Filters can (and should) be washed

One very basic thing you can do if you’re having air conditioner trouble in your trailer or motorhome is to check out the AC filter. These filters are made to be washed in warm soapy water and should be set in the sun to dry. This should happen at least every six months, but if you’re using the air conditioner on a regular basis, you might find yourself cleaning the filter every month or so. 

Eventually, your air conditioner filter will become too worn to wash and reuse. In this case, you will need to purchase a new filter. If you can’t find a filter to perfectly fit your unit, buying a larger one and cutting it down to fit is perfectly acceptable. 

Other RV air conditioner tips

The things mentioned above are the most important RV AC maintenance tips. That said, there are a few other things we think you should know about your AC unit. 

Ensure you have enough power

RV air conditioners require a lot of power to run. The majority of this power is used on startup to get the compressor up and running. Starting an air conditioner with too little power can lead to damage over time.

For this reason, we discourage people from running their AC when plugged into a 15- or 20-amp outlet. 

Use a soft starter

If you find yourself needing to run your AC when plugged into a 20-amp outlet, or you want to be able to run the air conditioner while using a smaller generator, you might find it useful to install an air conditioner soft starter . This cuts back on the amount of power needed to start the AC, meaning you won’t damage the unit by using it whenever less power is available. With the SoftStartRV , you can even run 2 A/C units on just 30 amps of power.

Track your maintenance

Because there are several things to keep track of in terms of AC maintenance, and because your RV as whole comes with an enormous list of maintenance tasks, we highly recommend finding a way to track your maintenance. Some people use a paper calendar or planner, but we prefer using RV LIFE Maintenance for this purpose. 

For more RV AC maintenance tips, check out this video from Love Your RV :

Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner While Driving?

You’re driving to Florida for your family’s spring break vacation and looking forward to the hot weather. The traffic’s moving nicely; the kids are strapped in at the dinette table and playing a game — when suddenly the afternoon sun’s golden rays start beating down through your RV window.

At first, it feels great. You soak it in, but after a few minutes, those coveted rays start to burn .

That sun is hot . And it’s not long before you’re shading your face, and your kids start complaining about the heat. 

This is when you ask the all-important question: Can you run an RV air conditioner while driving?

While the answer varies based on your RV and what type of RV generator you have, rest assured that there are ways to keep your camper cooler while traveling.

Can I Use Both My Dashboard and a Rooftop Air Conditioner While Driving my RV?

RVs typically have a dashboard and a rooftop air conditioner to deal with the RV’s air conditioning needs.

The dashboard AC is powered by the vehicle’s engine and is great for cooling smaller spaces.

A rooftop AC, by contrast, is more powerful and efficient and can be powered by a generator while driving. 

So, which one should you use? Both are great options, but each lends its own advantages and limitations.

Dashboard Air Conditioning

A dashboard air conditioner, also known as “dash air,” is just like a car’s dash air conditioner. It provides warm or cool airflow through the vents. Since the engine powers it, you always have the dash air available while driving and don’t need an additional power source to run it. 

While “dash air” can keep your front seat passengers cool, can the dash air cool the rest of the RV, too?

While you could rig up some electric fans to circulate the cooler air, the downside to relying on the dashboard AC is that for a larger Class C recreational vehicle , it’s that it’s not sufficient for cooling the entire RV, namely the living space behind the driver’s area. 

This is where an RV’s rooftop air conditioner comes in handy, as it’s a stronger cooling agent, capable of blowing cool air through larger spaces.

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Rooftop Air Conditioning

Rooftop air conditioners, such as an RV’s rooftop AC, sit atop the RV’s roof and cool the entire living space. 

While driving, you can use your rooftop AC if it’s safe to use your generator while driving. If you do choose to use your generator mid road trip, you’ll incur higher fuel costs, but your passengers will thank you.

Despite their increased power requirements, rooftop AC units are really the only way to keep your RV living spaces cool and comfortable , even on those especially scorching days.

By using a combination of both systems , you can ensure a pleasant and cozy cabin for everyone inside the RV, no matter where your passengers are sitting.

Is It Safe to Run My RV’s Generator to Power My Rooftop Air Conditioning While Driving?

The safety of you and your passengers is paramount. The thought may have crossed your mind: Is it safe to run a rooftop A/C while driving? After all, there’s an inherent difference between, “ Can I run my RV air conditioner while driving?” and “ S hould I run it while driving?” 

Yes, you always can , but it’s not completely risk-free to run all generators while driving. 

A propane generator or gas generator should not be used while driving. Both of these generators use explosive fuels to generate power. If you end up in an accident while using one of these fuels, you risk a fire or explosion that is more likely to harm your passengers and destroy your RV. (In fact, there are propane usage laws that warn against this very thing.)

But if you have an electric motor powered by solar panels, for example, then keeping your generator running while you’re driving isn’t a safety risk. Adhering to these safety measures allows for a comfortable, worry-free journey that does not compromise the well-being of those onboard. 

How to Stay Cool Without Rooftop AC While Driving

So, you’ve learned that you shouldn’t use your propane generator while driving. You’re all about complying with the law and safety measures that protect people, but your RV will (inevitably) get hot without an A/C running. So, how do you keep your passengers cool on hot days?

Here are some practical changes you can make to your RV to keep the cabin area cooler on your next road trip. 

Run the Air Conditioner Before You Leave

If you cool your RV to the desired temperature before departure, you can keep your RV at a comfortable temperature for the beginning of your journey. If you cover your windows, then you can slow the gradual heating process of your RV.

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Incorporate window coverings.

The sunlight seeping through your RV windows creates the greenhouse effect that keeps your plants happy during a chilly spring. Unfortunately, this same effect heats up your travel trailer mighty quickly. 

You can keep internal temperatures low by using shades or blackout curtains to block direct sunlight.

Invest in Window Tinting

Some RVs don’t lend themselves to window covering. In some cases, RV owners just don’t like the appearance of bulk blackout curtains. If you’re one of those people, invest in quality window tinting that blocks UV rays.

Open a Window

This does depend on what type of window you have. If you have the windows that you crank, then no , don’t open those while driving. But if you have windows that slide down, it’s perfectly safe to open your windows and allow fresh air to circulate.

Use Battery-Powered Fans

There are two ways to use fans when cooling cabins in RVs. First, you can angle a fan so that it’s blowing directly on the passengers. That works okay, but the air that’s circulating will still be warm.

Alternatively, you can set up your fans strategically so that they pull air from the front cab (where the dash air conditioning is running), effectively circulating cool air.

Buy a Portable AC Unit

While pricey, you can always purchase portable, battery-powered air conditioners if your dash air conditioning just isn’t cutting it. These portable AC units can operate for up to eight hours on a single charge.

But take note, not just any portable AC unit will work. You need one that has its own battery power source. If you try to hook up your portable unit to your RV battery power, you risk draining your RV battery before you get where you’re going. 

What Not to Do 

Finally, let’s end with a quick what NOT to do. When people get desperate, they crank open their ceiling vents while in motion to allow airflow. This is a bad idea.

Don’t crank open the ceiling vents while driving. It’s hard on gas mileage and your hardware. While it does provide for some air flow, those cranks aren’t designed to withstand that kind of wind resistance, and they could break. 

Air conditioning systems are a beautiful thing. They allow you to drive your RV to exotic places yet still sleep comfortably when it’s hot. 

But what if you need to park your RV in a hot climate for the long term? 

That’s where Neighbor can help. Neighbor — a peer-to-peer marketplace — provides legal, safe, climate-controlled, and budget-friendly storage spaces for RVs.

And before you store your RV in a hot climate, here are eleven things you need to do. 

Related Posts

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Keeping your car cool in summer: 10 expert tips, the 2024 guide to the best rv generator, can you use an rv in the winter a guide to cold weather rv camping , how to charge rv batteries efficiently: 4 methods.

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Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner While Driving?

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Can You Run an RV Air Conditioner While Driving? The Ultimate Guide

Summer is in full swing and that means one thing for RVers – road trips! If you’re like most people, you’ll want to keep your RV as cool as possible during the hot summer months. One of the best ways to do this is by using the RV air conditioner. But can you run your air conditioner while driving? In this article, we will answer that question and give you some tips on how to use your AC safely and efficiently.

Using RV Air Conditioning While Driving

The most significant thing to keep in mind when utilizing your RV AC while driving is that you’ll need a generator. The AC unit will put a strain on the battery, so you’ll need to make sure the generator is running to keep everything going. You should also keep an eye on the temperature gauge; if it starts to get too hot, turn off the AC unit until the temperature drops again.

Another thing to keep in mind is that you’ll need to be careful of low overpasses and bridges. The AC unit is tall, and if you’re not careful, you could end up damaging the unit (or worse).

Dash Air Conditioning

Some RVs come with a dash AC, which can be used while driving. However, these units are not as powerful as the ones that run off of generators, so you may not be able to keep the entire RV cool. Additionally, dash air conditioners can be noisy, so if you’re trying to enjoy the scenery or listen to music while driving, it may not be the best option.

Finally, remember to conserve fuel by driving at a lower speed. It will use more power the faster you’re going, so it’s best to take it easy on the gas pedal.

Rooftop Air Conditioning

If your RV has a rooftop AC, you’ll need to be extra careful while driving. These units are even taller than dash air conditioners, so you’ll need to be aware of low bridges and overpasses. Additionally, the weight of the AC unit can put a strain on the roof of the RV, so make sure to go slowly and avoid bumpy roads.

As with dash air conditioners, you should lower all of the windows in the RV before turning on the rooftop AC unit.

Finally, keep in mind that a rooftop AC unit will use more power than a dash unit; if possible, try to find a campsite with hookups so you can plug into shore power and run the AC unit without draining your battery.

Different Generators Used for Your RV Air Conditioning

There are a few types of generators that you can use to power your RV AC while driving.

An RV generator

An RV generator is the most common type of generator used to power RV air conditioners.

RV generators are usually gas-powered and can be used to power other appliances in your RV as well.

The downside to using an RV generator is that they can be noisy and produce fumes.

If you’re not comfortable using a generator, there are other options available.

Some RVs come with solar panels. Solar panels are a great option if you’re looking for a quiet and environmentally friendly way to power your AC.

Another option is to use a portable battery pack. Battery packs can be plugged into your RV and used to power your device for a limited amount of time.

Medium Inverter Generator

The medium inverter generator is a great option if you’re looking for a generator that’s quiet and environmentally friendly.

Medium inverter generators are powered by batteries, so there’s no need to worry about fumes or noise.

They’re also relatively small and easy to store, making them a great option for RVs.

The downside to using a medium inverter generator is that they’re not as powerful as RV generators.

Make sure to choose the right size generator for your needs.

2 Small Inverter Generators

If you have a small RV and are only running one air conditioner, then a small inverter generator should be plenty of power. These generators are quiet and fuel-efficient, making them perfect for RVs. [1]

The two main brands of small inverter generators are Honda and Yamaha . Both of these brands make great generators that will last for years.

If you have a larger RV or are running multiple air conditioners, then you will need a larger generator. These generators can be quite loud, so if noise is a concern, you may want to look into getting a soundproofing enclosure for your generator.

Why Would I Want to Run the Rooftop A/C While Driving?

Does the type of rv make a difference.

The answer to this question is a resounding yes! The type of RV you have will definitely make a difference in whether or not you can run it while driving. For instance, if you have a fifth-wheel RV, then you typically cannot run your device while driving because the weight of the RV puts too much strain on the engine. However, if you have a lighter-weight travel trailer or pop up camper, then you should be able to run your device while driving without any problems.

Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule and there are some RVs that are designed to be able to handle the weight of running. If you’re not sure whether or not your RV falls into this category, then it’s always best to check with the manufacturer to be sure.

Do I Have to Run the Generator to Run The Rooftop AC?

The answer to this question is no, you don’t have to run the generator to use your RV AC while driving. We recommend having the generator running while using the AC unit. This is because it will help to keep the battery charging and will also provide a consistent power supply to the AC unit.

RV air conditioners are designed to work off of either 110v or 12v power. Most units will come with a built-in converter that will allow them to operate off of either type of power source. If your RV is equipped with an inverter, then you can run your AC unit off of the 110v power source. If you don’t have an inverter, then you’ll need to use the 12v power source.

Most RVs will have a 30-amp or 50-amp electrical system. The size of your RV’s electrical system will determine how many appliances you can run at one time. If you are connected to shore power, you may run as many appliances as the electrical system in your RV will allow. If you are running off of the generator, then you will want to limit the number of appliances that you are using. This is because the generator can only produce so much power and if you overload it, then it could cause damage to the generator or to the RV.

We recommend that you follow these tips:

• Ensure that the generator is running and that it is properly maintained.
• Limit the number of appliances that you are using while the AC unit is running.
• Keep an eye on the battery level and make sure to stop and recharge it if it gets too low.
• Ensure to turn off the air conditioner if it gets too cold in the RV and open some windows for ventilation. [2]

Is It Safe To Run The Generator While Driving?

The answer to this question is a bit more complicated. Here are a few things to bear in mind. First, ensure you’re obeying all the local laws and regulations regarding generators. Some states have laws that prohibit running a generator while driving, so be sure to check before you hit the road. Secondly, be aware of your surroundings and drive defensively. If you’re running the generator, chances are other drivers will be able to hear it. Be courteous and don’t block traffic or cause any accidents. Finally, make sure you’re not overloading the RV’s electrical system. The last thing you want is to cause a fire while on the road.

Is It Fuel Efficient to Run the Rooftop AC while Driving?

The quick answer is no. If you want to conserve fuel, it’s best to turn off it while driving and open the windows instead.

There are some exceptions where it might make sense to run it. For example, if you’re going to be driving in stop-and-go traffic on a hot day, it might be more comfortable (and less sweaty) to keep the AC running.

Another exception is if you have young children or pets in the RV with you. They may not be able to handle the heat as well as adults, so keeping the AC running for their comfort is probably worth the extra fuel consumption.

Steps For Running The AC Safely

Assuming that you have a level spot to park on and all the necessary hookups, you’ll want to take the following steps to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.

First, open all the windows and doors in your RV. You want as much airflow as possible circulating throughout the space.

Next, set up any fans you have inside the RV so they’re blowing outwards. This will assist in the removal of any hot air that may have accumulated near the ceiling.

Then, turn on your AC unit and set it to “Fan” mode. Let it run for a few minutes before setting it to “Cool.” Doing this will help prevent your AC from freezing up.

Now, you can close all the windows and doors in your RV, except for one window or door that’s slightly cracked open for preventing any condensation from building up inside your RV. [3]

Last, keep an eye on the temperature inside your RV and make sure it doesn’t get too cold. If it does, open a window or door to let some of the cool air out.

Tips on Keeping Your RV Cool

Here are a few tips that will help you keep your RV cool while driving.

Use RV floor insulation covers

One way to keep your RV cool is by using floor insulation covers. This will help reflect the heat away from the floor and into the air.

Another tip is to use window shades or curtains. This will help keep the sun from shining in and heating up the RV.

Finally, you can use a fan to circulate the air inside the RV. This will ensure that the cold air is equally distributed throughout the area.

Close window covers

When you are driving, be sure to close all of the window covers.

Turn on the AC before starting your trip

Make sure to turn on the RV AC before you start your trip for cooling down the space before you even start driving.

Park in the shade

When you stop for the day, try to park in the shade.

Grill and cook outside

Another way is by cooking and grilling outside. This will help to keep the heat out of the RV and make it more comfortable inside.

Go somewhere cooler

If you are really struggling to keep your RV cool, then you may want to consider going somewhere that is cooler. This can be a higher elevation or a different climate altogether. [4]

How long can you run RV AC on battery?

This is a difficult question to answer because it depends on the size of your battery, the power of your RV AC unit, and how much electricity your other RV appliances are using. However, in general, you should be able to run a small AC unit for about four hours on a single battery charge. If you have a larger battery and/or a more powerful AC unit, you may be able to run it for longer.

Of course, if you’re driving while using the AC, you’ll be using even more electricity and will need to recharge your batteries more frequently. It’s important to keep this in mind when planning extended trips in your RV.

If you’re not sure how long your particular setup will last, it’s always a good idea to bring along a backup generator just in case.

Does it hurt to run an RV air conditioner?

The answer to this question is a resounding no ! In fact, running your AC is actually pretty darn easy on your engine.

Here’s why: most RVs have what’s called an inverter. This nifty little device converts the DC power from your batteries into AC power that can be used to run things like your AC, microwave, and TV. So, when you plug your RV into shore power (or use a generator), the inverter does its thing and voila! You’ve got AC power for all of your goodies. [5]

Now, when you’re driving down the road, the inverter is constantly working to keep those DC batteries charged up. And, since the engine is already running and using fuel, there’s really no extra strain on it to run the air conditioner (or any other AC-powered devices).

Can you turn on the AC while driving?

The answer is yes ! First, you’ll want to make sure that your RV has an auxiliary battery that can power the AC unit. Second, you’ll want to run the AC on low or moderate settings to avoid draining your battery too quickly. And finally, if you’re going to be running the AC while driving, it’s always a good idea to have someone else in the RV to keep an eye on things. [6]

With those caveats in mind, let’s take a look at how to actually turn on it while driving. The first thing you’ll need to do is locate the switch for your RV’s auxiliary battery. This switch is usually located near the RV’s main electrical panel. Once you’ve found the switch, flip it to the “On” position.

Next, you’ll need to locate the thermostat. The thermostat is usually located on the wall near the AC unit itself. Once you’ve found the thermostat, set it to your desired temperature.

Finally, you’ll need to start the engine of your RV. Once the engine is running, Flip the switch to the “On” position. And that’s it! You should now have cool air flowing through your RV while you’re driving down the road.

How long can you run RV AC?

The answer to this question is a bit more complicated than a simple yes or no. If you have a newer RV, then you most likely can run your AC while driving. However, older RVs were not designed to handle the stress of having the AC running while driving down the road. This can cause undue wear and tear on your RV and potentially lead to problems down the road.

How Can I Keep My Trailer Cool When I Drive?

There are a few different ways that you can keep your trailer cool. One way is to use an AC. Another way is to use a fan. And the last way is to use both an AC and a fan together.

RV air conditioners are great because they will cool down the trailer quickly. However, they do use a lot of electricity. So, if you’re going to be driving for a long time, it’s probably not the best idea to run your device the whole time.

Fans are a great way to keep your trailer cool without using as much electricity. You can either put a fan in the window or use a portable fan.

If you use both an RV air conditioner and a fan together, you’ll be able to keep your trailer cool without using as much electricity. And, you’ll also be able to keep the inside of your trailer more comfortable.

Can I run my RV AC all night?

This is a common question, and unfortunately, there isn’t a simple answer. It really depends on your RV set-up and how much power you have available. If you’re plugged into shore power, then you can run your AC all night without any issues. However, if you’re running off of battery power, then you’ll need to be more conservative with your usage.

Another factor to consider is the temperature outside. If it’s cool enough outside, then you may not need to run your AC at all! Just open up some windows and enjoy the fresh air.

At the end of the day, it’s up to you to decide how to best use your RV AC. Just be mindful of your power usage and make sure you have a good understanding of your RV set-up. With a little bit of planning, you can enjoy a comfortable night’s sleep no matter where you are.

Can you run an RV AC on the battery?

The answer is yes! However, it will only run for a limited amount of time before the battery needs to be recharged. To get the most out of your battery, we recommend turning off all other electronics and appliances while running the device.

Useful Video: How to Run RV Air Conditioning AC efficiently while driving with kids

Thus, you can run an AC while driving, but there are a few things to bear in mind. First, ensure your generator is properly sized for your AC. Second, be mindful of how much power your device is using and monitor your battery levels. And finally, use a surge protector to help protect the AC from voltage spikes. By following these tips, you can enjoy cool comfort while on the road.

References:

• https://camperreport.com/can-you-use-rv-air-conditioning-while-driving/
• https://rvblogger.com/blog/can-i-run-the-rv-a-c-while-driving/
• https://www.centralhtg.com/blog/starting-your-a/c-for-the-first-time-this-summer
• https://koa.com/blog/14-tricks-for-keeping-your-rv-cool-in-the-summer/
• https://www.jeffsetter.com/how-long-can-you-run-an-rv-air-conditioner/
• https://www.topgear.com.ph/features/tip-sheet/drive-ac-off-a57-20180103

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Can RV AC Run Continuously?

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Stepping into a hot RV after a long day of summer activities can quickly dampen your mood. You may want to leave your AC on continuously during the day while you’re out exploring. However, you’re first wondering if you even can – or should – run your AC all day.

Can my RV air conditioner run all day?

You can run your RV’s air conditioner continuously without causing a problem. If you’re going to run the AC all day, adjust your thermostat a bit lower so your compressor can still cycle on and off. Most importantly, you need to have enough of your power source if you would like to keep your RV’s AC on all day. 

If you have 2 units you can alternate between the front and rear AC to give each a break.

AC is undoubtedly an essential in my rig. I can’t imagine going on a summer trip without it, considering how quickly RVs – especially trailers – can heat up in the sun. 

Most RVs have AC units. In fact, it’s rare to find one that doesn’t. This post will answer all of your questions about running your AC all day; I’ll even give you some tips on how to do this most efficiently.

How Does RV AC Work?

An RV’s air conditioner works to remove heat from the air inside your RV. This can be done through two separate types of AC systems: ducted or ductless air conditioner units.

Smaller motorhomes or RVs usually have ductless AC systems – these are often found on top of the RV or in a window. These simply blow cool air from the unit into the room via one-way vents instead of a ducted system.

Larger motorhomes that have more than one AC unit, and include ducts in the ceilings, have ducted RV AC systems. Ducted systems are generally more expensive, but are also more efficient and quieter. A ducted system may also be known as a compressor system.

Here is how an RV air conditioning system works:

• First, gaseous refrigerant vapors are pressurized and heated in the compressor . These vapors get piped through a condenser and into the evaporator .
• The evaporator is meanwhile absorbing heat from the warm air of the RV’s interior. As this warm air travels over the cool coils of the evaporator, the temperature of the air drops.
• This cooler air then gets blown back into the RV’s interior through vents. The refrigerant flows back into the compressor and the cycle continues to repeat itself.

This process cools the RV interior by dissipating, circulating and dehumidifying the air. Some warm air is also pushed out of the RV by fans and the condenser.

How Long Can You Safely Run an AC in an RV?

You can safely let the AC run in your RV continuously – even all day long – as long as you have a consistent and adequate power source. This will either be a 30- or 50-amp hookup or a large enough generator.

However, it’s also important to make sure your power source will supply enough starting and running wattage. If your wattage is too low, your AC might not start up or it will quit running before it should.

Keep in mind that an RV’s AC unit can generally only cool the air inside your rig to about 20 degrees lower than the temperature outside. So if the temperature is forecasted to be over 100* Fahrenheit that day, your RV will only be able to cool off to about 80* F.

How Many Watts Do I Need to Run My RV AC All Day?

If you’re planning on leaving your RV air conditioning unit running all day, you need to make sure you have enough power supply to provide adequate wattage to start and run your AC unit. This will depend on the BTU of your RV AC.

The BTU, or British thermal unit, measures how much energy your AC unit uses to remove heat from the air. A smaller, 7,000 BTU unit will require only about 1,700 watts to start and 600 to continue to run. However, AC units of 13,500-15,000 BTUs require around 3,000 watts for start up and 1250-1500 running watts.

It’s important to consider the “running wattage” needed for your AC unit, as this will allow the air conditioner to run continuously and maintain coolness inside your RV.

Your thermostat also will help balance and control the temperature of your RV per your preference. 

How Do I Set My RV AC to Run All Day?

Your RV’s air conditioner is designed to operate off of an intake temperature from outside air. So you should expect your AC unit to be able to cool the air only to about 20 degrees cooler than outside temperatures.

This is important to keep in mind when setting your thermostat, especially if you plan to let it run all day long.

To set your RV AC to run continuously, follow these steps:

• First, set your AC unit to either “high cool” or “low cool”. This adjusts the fan speed and how hard the air blows into the RV.
• Then, set the temperature to “cool” or “cold”.  The “fan” setting only brings in outside air without cooling it, so you want to make sure it’s actually being cooled off.
• Last, set your preferred temperature to about 73-77 degrees Fahrenheit. If you set the temperature too low and the air is too humid, the AC could freeze up.

Pro Tip: Don’t go lower than 70 degrees on the thermostat as this can put the whole system at risk.

For more efficient cooling, get up early to turn your AC on. This will prevent the inside of your rig from getting too warm first, which will take longer to cool off later.

You will have a consistent temperature until night. During the night is also the best time to set your thermostat to a lower temperature.

Is It OK to Run Your RV AC All the Time?

Your RV’s air conditioner can safely run continuously as long as you are plugged into a continuous power supply. Your AC can run all day long, without causing problems, if you are on a large enough generator or other adequate electric source. However, keep in mind that if you’re on a generator, your neighbors may get a bit irritated listening to it run all day long.

Tips on Maintaining RV AC Unit

Generally, an RV’s air conditioner will last about 4-8 years. However, with proper care and maintenance, it can be longer than that. 

Proper, routine maintenance is key to increasing the lifespan of your RV’s AC unit. Here are 5 simple ways to keep your air conditioner working longer:

• When your AC is not in use, open your roof vent to let the moisture evaporate.
• Keep the fan inside your AC unit oiled. This will help the fan – as well as the rest of the unit – to work more effectively.
• When your RV is not in use or during the off-season, make sure to cover the AC unit. If you can, invest in a good quality cover , like this one from Amazon. This will help protect your AC unit from rain, snow, UV rays, and debris.
• Clean your AC’s air filter. Depending on how often you use the AC, you should clean the filter at least once or twice a month. If necessary, you can easily find replacement filters online .
• Avoid overworking your AC. Try to set the temperature a little warmer (75 deg F) so it doesn’t have to work as hard. Also, only run it all day when necessary – not all the time.

How to Keep Your RV Cool During Summer

Besides running the AC all day long, there are other ways to keep your rig cool while you’re off the road. Here are a few tips to help you keep your camper cool during summer:

• Park in the shade. If you can’t find a spot that shades the whole rig, try to at least make sure your AC and refrigerator are shaded.
• Use an awning or window shades. Covering your RV windows with awnings or shades will help your RV absorb less heat. ( Read here whether Blinds or Curtains are better )
• Try cooking outside. Cooking inside your RV, especially on the gas stove top, will quickly heat up the whole RV. So instead of cooking every meal inside, try grilling or cooking on a gas stovetop outside.
• Use LED lights instead of incandescent. LED lights are much cooler and more efficient on a hot day. LEDs will last longer on battery, too.
• Cover your skylights. Just like windows, skylights are a big source of solar gain inside your RV. If you don’t need them for the light, cover them with a shade. You can find magnetic skylight covers on Amazon – they’re very affordable and easy to use.

Important Related Questions

How cold should an rv ac get.

Most people will stay pretty comfortable in an RV set at 73-75 degrees Fahrenheit. However, as discussed earlier, your AC unit is only able to cool your RV off to about 20 degrees lower than the outside temperature.

Can I Run My AC with Solar Power?

An RV air conditioner can run on a solar panel – as long as the panel is large enough. Your AC unit may require additional watts to start up. At least 3,500 watts is generally recommended for start-up and 1,800 watts for continuous running.

If you’re going to run your RV’s AC all day, you will need a continuous supply of power. Most RV systems will not get this with solar power and battery banks.

When Is the Best Time to Run My RV AC – During the Day or at Night?

There is no “best time” to run your RV’s AC. However, there is a more “effective” time to start running your AC, especially if you plan to let it run all day.

If you’re planning to run your AC continuously on a hot day, turn it on early in the morning – or even at night – is best. That way it can start cooling off your RV before the air inside gets too hot.

What Size of AC Do I Need for My RV?

The size of air conditioning unit you’ll need for an RV depends on the size of your rig.

If you want to get technical, use the following formula to determine what size AC unit you need for your RV:

• RV A=V/.416
• RV A is the RV air conditioner size (or btu)
• V is the volume of the RV, which can be found by multiplying the RV’s length, width, and height

In other words, divide the RV’s volume (length x width x height) by .416

The two most common sizes of RV air conditioner units are 13,500 and 15,000 BTUs. Generally, an RV will require about 60-80 BTUs per square foot to stay cool.

In Layman’s terms, small motorhomes or campers will stay cool with smaller AC units, while bigger RV’s will require larger ACs. Some larger rigs are equipped with two AC units that can be used alternately to avoid unnecessary wear and tear.

Can I Run RV AC on Battery?

Running your RV AC requires a lot of power. Therefore, it is not recommended to run your RV’s AC unit on battery unless it’s a small unit that you only plan to run for a short time.

Another way you can run your camper’s AC on battery is by using a 4,000 watts DC-to-AC power converter. However, most RVs only have a maximum inverter of 2000 watts. Some high-end RVs that come with 2 or 3 air conditioning units, though, may already have a larger power inverter.

Final Thoughts in Running an RV AC All-day

It’s common to want to conserve energy by only running our AC units when inside our campers. However, running it all day – regardless if you’re inside or outside the rig – is actually better for both you and your AC. 

Your AC consumes a lot of energy upon starting. In addition, it will consume extra energy trying to cool off an already-hot rig. Turning it on and off multiple times a day also wastes extra energy.

Instead, start your AC at night or early in the morning. That way, your RV won’t have the chance to build up extra heat. Your air conditioning unit will use much less energy keeping the rig cool if it starts off at a cooler temperature.

Keep the tips we discussed earlier in mind, and remember to perform regular maintenance on your AC unit for maximum efficiency and a longer lifespan.

There are also many other things you need to keep in mind when planning to take your RV out on the road. For helpful checklists and planners, visit my Etsy store here .

If you want other RV tips and hacks, you can start here.

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Why is My RV AC fan not working? Troubleshooting Guide for RV Air Conditioners

This RV air conditioner troubleshooting guide will help determine what’s wrong with your RV AC fan or unit and how to fix it. Includes maintenance tips for keeping your AC running smoothly…

I am afraid that it will not be safe to keep the air conditioner on continuously in my RV, the information you share helps me a lot. Now I can comfortably turn it on without worrying about anything happening.

I am glad this has helped.

I will keep reading your website. Thanks for writing this!

Hello. Not to worry about constant A/C use. Due to work, I, my husband & cat (who adopted us on the road), live full time 8yrs in our (now a) 2018 Cougar 5th wheel. Having the furball means the place can’t get over 80 (99* was once hit, windows open, fans on, but he was sprawled on the floor near his water, and camper took FOREVER to cool, once I turned A/Cs on) Much of this article is perfect info for an average vacationer. We gotta do what we gotta do! Currently, we’re are at a campground with NO SHADE. And gusty winds preventing awning or canopy use 90% of the time. Especially when husband is home, they run constantly. Like the Arctic. Our & A/C health is fine. Keep regular maintenance on units (we have 2 & alternate.) clean filters weekly. And hope to relocate to a place with trees (but then there can be issues with mold and critter damage) Life’s a gamble. Live it & enjoy!

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The Savvy Campers

How to Run the AC while Boondocking

Boondocking is the ultimate self-sufficient camping experience. With nearly non-existent amenities when boondocking, running luxury items such as an AC unit when you have no main power can make keeping cool a challenge. How can you run an AC while boondocking?

The only way to run an AC effectively and efficiently while boondocking is with a portable generator. Electrical units that reduce the AC startup power requirements allow the use of a smaller, quieter, more fuel-efficient portable generator. Solar power is not an efficient means to run the AC .

Camping in out-of-the-way places where not many other people are around is an exhilarating experience. Looking out over the expanse of the wilderness while you enjoy your morning coffee and not being able to see another human being holds a particular attraction. Once the sun gets higher in the sky and your RV starts to heat up, you may wonder if running your AC to ease the heat is possible!

Can You Run An Air Conditioner While Boondocking?

Older RVs and campers fitted with older technology air conditioners are considered dinosaurs of the camping world. These older vehicles are not as well insulated as modern camping vehicles, and the AC units are not very efficient and are very power-hungry.

If you are the proud owner of an older RV or camper, running the AC while boondocking may not be possible at all. Older AC units draw a massive spike of power when the compressor first kicks in, which often only direct mains power can handle.

This huge power draw from old AC units makes it impractical to run them from a generator. The generator would be too large to be practical as a portable power source for boondocking.

AC Needs Power Irrespective Of Location

Air conditioner units of any kind need a source of significant power to run, especially for the startup power overheads for the unit.

Modern RVs and campers have some benefits over older models . The new models are better insulated, which prevents the RV from heating up as quickly as older models.

Modern AC units installed in new RVs and campers are much more efficient at cooling the vehicle and require less electricity to power these units. Advances in technology have also provided specialized electronics that further decrease the startup electricity demands of RV air conditioner units. 

A generator is needed to run an air conditioner on a RV when boondocking. Many a/c units require extra watts to start the load.

Aftermarket products such as the  SoftStartRV SSRV3T by NetworkRV  reduce the startup demands of these camping AC units to the point that they can be powered by a  small 2000-Watt generator .

A  2000-Watt or 3000-Watt generator is small, compact, and runs quietly compared to larger generators. What is the point of going to the wilderness to enjoy the quiet, only to have the serenity disturbed by a thumping generator?

Many of these smaller generators are called portable inverter generators to power the load, and the gasoline motor is used to charge the batteries . This requires a smaller motor resulting in a much quieter generator.

These smaller generators are very fuel-efficient  and sip gas gently compared to larger gas-guzzling generators. Their compact size and fuel efficiency make them perfect for running the AC on your modern RV or camper. We recommend this generator , which is smaller in size as well as quiet.

If you arent in the market to purchase and install a soft start for your air conditioner on your RV, another great option is this generator . It has a higher wattage to power the load but will use more gasoline than its smaller counterpart.

Can You Run Your AC On Solar Power While Boondocking?

Solar energy is clean power and completely noise-free, so many RV owners consider using this power source to power their AC.

Whether solar panels can be used to power your A/C unit or not will depend on the capacity of the solar solution you have. However, even if you have a high-capacity system, it is not recommended as a long-term method for running your air conditioning unit. In addition to a large solar array of 1,000+ watts, you will need several lithium batteries and a large 3,000+ watt inverter to run the load. Cost-wise, it is very expensive to do this.

Running the AC is simply an inefficient use of your solar energy, and you will most likely find that if you run the AC on your solar system, you will be able to run very little else off the system. The AC unit will dominate the power and will deplete the batteries very quickly.

Solar power is an effective method of powering everything else in your RV except the AC! The AC requires a stronger power source, with a portable inverter generator being the best solution.

Do You Really Need To Run The AC While Boondocking? 

Is it really necessary to run your AC while boondocking? There are ways to cool your RV down while boondocking to limit the need to resort to the AC unit.

These steps will limit the heat your RV absorbs, keeping the interior cooler and reducing the need to run the AC.

• RV parking orientation . The walls of the RV are insulated, which helps to keep the interior of the vehicle cool. The main way the heat gets into the RV is when the windows are exposed to direct sunshine. You can park your RV facing east or west, which will limit the amount of time the sun shines directly on the side windows. The bonus is you will be able to enjoy spectacular sunsets or sunrises while sitting outside your RV!
• Use an awning to shade the windows . An awning is an effective way to keep the sun off the windows and provide some shade outside the RV.
• Insulate the windows . Reflective tinting or film can be put on the windows to reflect the sun’s heat away from the vehicle.
• Park in the shade. Shady spots can be significantly cooler than the general air temperature and will help to keep your RV cool.
• Don’t park on asphalt, concrete, or hard-baked ground. These surfaces will reflect heat from the sun up into your RV, increasing the temperature inside the RV.
• Open the RV windows . Parking in the shade and opening the windows and doors of the RV will help to get airflow through the vehicle, reducing the inside temperature.
• Install more efficient fans . Most RVs and campers have standard extractor fans installed, which are not very efficient at removing warm air from the vehicle’s interior. Installing more efficient fans will draw the hot air out the top of the vehicle and draw cooler air from the windows and doors. Our favorite pick is this model. We have tested the best models and this one came out ahead.

• Camp near water . Lakes and dams provide cooler ambient temperatures around their perimeter. Finding a shady spot close to a large body of water will go a long way to keeping your RV cool.
• Choose your boondocking location . Higher altitude locations or areas on the Pacific coast of the US have generally cooler temperatures than locations in the south and in the desert regions. Selecting a cooler location and the right time of year will allow you to experience the wilderness without the need for running your AC.

Boondocking or dispersed camping is becoming a popular method of camping because of its wild, remote, unspoiled beauty of the wilderness and limited human interaction.

Camping with limited amenities means you may have to make alternative plans to run your AC or find a way to do without this appliance.

The only efficient way to power your AC is with a generator. Finding ways to use a small, relatively silent inverter generator is the best option to limit noise pollution in the quiet outdoors!

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Can You Run the RV Air Conditioner on 15 Amps Circuit?

There’s nothing worse than being stuck in a hot RV with no air conditioning. But before you start sweating, be sure to check and see if your RV air conditioner can run on 15 amps. Many RVs have adapters that allow you to plug into a standard household outlet, but not all air conditioners are created equal.

So if you’re not sure whether or not your RV air conditioner will work on 15 amps , be sure to do some research first. You don’t want to be caught in the middle of summer without any relief from the heat!

Is It Possible to run the RV air conditioner on 15 amps?

Yes, you can run an RV air conditioner on 15 amps, but it may not be as effective as running it on 30 amps. If you are only going to be using the air conditioner for a short period of time, then 15 amps should be fine. However, if you are planning on using the air conditioner for extended periods of time, you may want to consider running it on 30 amps.

How to run an RV air conditioner on 15 amps?

The air conditioner in your RV is a vital part of making your vacation comfortable. However, you may be wondering if you can run it on 15 amps instead of the 30 that is typically required. The good news is that yes, you can run your RV air conditioner on 15 amps, but there are some things to keep in mind.

Step 1: First, you will need to make sure that your RV air conditioner is specifically designed for 15 amp usage. Not all air conditioners are made the same and some require more power than others. Once you have confirmed that your air conditioner can in fact be run on 15 amps, there are a few things you will need to do in order to make it work.

Step 2: you need to unplug any other appliances that may be running on the same circuit as the air conditioner. This includes things like microwaves, TVs, and stereos. Once these are all unplugged, you can then plug in the air conditioner.

Step 3: you need to make sure that the air conditioner is the only thing plugged into the circuit. If there are any other appliances plugged in, they could cause the air conditioner to overload the circuit and trip the breaker.

Step 4: you need to turn on the air conditioner and set it to the desired temperature. Once it is running, you should not have any problems keeping cool. However, if you find that the air conditioner is not cooling as well as it should, you may need to turn it up a bit.

Step 5: if you have an older model RV, you may need to upgrade your electrical system in order to accommodate running the air conditioner on 15 amps. This includes things like upgrading your wiring and getting a new breaker box. However, if you have a newer RV, this should not be necessary.

Keep in mind that running your RV air conditioner on 15 amps is not going to be as powerful as running it on 30. Therefore, you may want to consider only using it when it is absolutely necessary. Additionally, you may want to run it for shorter periods of time in order to avoid overworking the system.

By following these tips, you can easily run your RV air conditioner on 15 amps and stay cool all summer long!

Comparison Chart for watts and Amps for RV Air Conditioners with BTU values:

What are the benefits of running it on 15 amps.

Some benefits of running your RV air conditioner on 15 amps include:

You’ll save energy:

Running your RV air conditioner on 15 amps rather than 30 amps can save you up to 50% on your energy consumption.

You’ll extend the life of your RV air conditioner:

Running your RV air conditioner on 15 amps will help to extend its lifespan since it won’t have to work as hard.

Your RV air conditioner will cool your RV more efficiently:

15 amps of power provide more consistent cooling than 30 amps, meaning your RV will stay cooler for longer.

It will run more quietly:

RV air conditioners that run on 15 amps tend to be quieter than those that run on 30 amps. So, if you’re looking for a more peaceful camping experience, this might be the way to go.

You may be able to use a smaller generator:

If you opt to run your RV air conditioner on 15 amps, you may be able to get away with using a smaller generator. This can be helpful if you’re trying to save space or cut down on weight.

It will cool the RV more quickly:

RV air conditioners that run on 30 amps tend to cool the RV more quickly than those that run on 15 amps. So, if you’re looking for a more immediate cooling solution, this might be the way to go.

The air conditioner will last longer:

RV air conditioners that run on 30 amps will typically have a longer lifespan than those that run on 15 amps. So, if you’re looking for an air conditioner that will last for years to come, this might be the best option.

If you’re not sure whether your RV air conditioner can handle running on 15 amps, it’s always best to check with the manufacturer. However, most RV air conditioners are designed to run on both 15 and 30 amps, so you should be able to find a model that will work for you.

>>Learn More: Can RV Air Conditioner Run Continuously? A Detailed Guide

What are the drawbacks of running it on 15 amps?

Some drawbacks of running your RV air conditioner on 15 amps include:

It will take longer to cool your RV down:

Since the air conditioner won’t be able to generate as much power, it will take longer to cool your RV down.

You may have to run your RV air conditioner on a higher setting:

To achieve the same level of cooling, you may have to run your RV air conditioner on a higher setting. This could lead to increased energy consumption.

It will cool the RV more slowly:

RV air conditioners that run on 15 amps will typically cool the RV more slowly than those that run on 30 amps. So, if you’re looking for a more immediate cooling solution, this might not be the best option.

You may need a larger generator:

If you opt to run your RV air conditioner on 15 amps, you may need a larger generator to provide enough power. This can be inconvenient if you’re trying to save space or cut down on weight.

All in all, there are some downsides to running your RV air conditioner on 15 amps as well. For one, it will take longer to cool your RV down since the air conditioner won’t be able to generate as much power.

Additionally, you may have to run your RV air conditioner on a higher setting to achieve the same level of cooling, which could lead to increased energy consumption.

What are some tips for reducing energy consumption when running an RV air conditioner?

There are a few things you can do to reduce energy consumption when running your RV air conditioner:

-Run the air conditioner on a lower setting: This will help to reduce energy consumption.

-Close the windows and doors: This will help to keep the cool air inside the RV.

-Use fans: In addition to running the air conditioner, you can use fans to help circulate the cool air throughout the RV.

-Turn off lights: Lights generate heat, so turning them off will help to keep the RV cool.

-Block the sun: By shading the RV, you can help to keep it cooler.

In conclusion, Deciding whether to run your RV air conditioner on 15 or 30 amps can be a difficult decision. However, by weighing the pros and cons of each option, you can make an informed decision that’s right for you.

If you’re looking to save energy and extend the life of your RV air conditioner, running it on 15 amps may be the way to go. However, if you need your RV to cool down quickly, you may want to stick with 30 amps.

Frequently Asked Questions:

How long does it take for an rv air conditioner to cool down.

The time it takes for an RV air conditioner to cool down depends on a number of factors, including the size of the RV, the type of air conditioner, and the amount of power (15 or 30 amps) that the air conditioner is running on. Generally speaking, it will take longer to cool down an RV if the air conditioner is running on 15 amps rather than 30 amps.

Do I need a special type of air conditioner to run on 15 amps?

No, you don’t need a special type of air conditioner to run on 15 amps. Any air conditioner that is designed for use in an RV can be run on 15 or 30 amps.

Can I run my RV air conditioner on a generator?

Yes, you can run your RV air conditioner on a generator. However, you will need to make sure that the generator is large enough to provide the necessary power. If you’re running your air conditioner on 15 amps, you’ll need a generator that can provide at least 1800 watts of power. If you’re running your air conditioner on 30 amps, you’ll need a generator that can provide at least 3600 watts of power.

Can I use an extension cord to run my RV air conditioner?

Yes, you can use an extension cord to run your RV air conditioner. However, you will need to make sure that the extension cord is rated for the amount of power that your air conditioner will be consuming. For example, if you’re running your air conditioner on 15 amps, you’ll need an extension cord that is rated for at least 1875 watts.

Can I run my RV air conditioner on solar power?

Yes, you can run your RV air conditioner on solar power. However, you will need to make sure that your solar panel system is large enough to provide the necessary power.

If you’re running your air conditioner on 15 amps, you’ll need a solar panel system that can provide at least 1800 watts of power. If you’re running your air conditioner on 30 amps, you’ll need a solar panel system that can provide at least 3600 watts of power.

Hi I’m Joiel Borid Creators of RV Outsider. Wild Life’s first camping was started when I’m 8 years old, at the Home Front Yard. Moto of RV Outsider shares my experience, expertise, and knowledge that I learned, and apprises about my next journey. So stay tuned with RV Outsider.

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How much power does an RV AC use? A guide to RV air conditioners’ power usage

• Updated on February 10, 2024
• Cooling and Heating , Electricity Usage

In this article, my goal is to offer a straightforward explanation of how RV air conditioners consume electricity.

To achieve this, I’ll start by clarifying the different aspects of your RV AC’s electricity use, specifically its Power Usage (measured in Watts) and Energy Consumption (measured in kWh) . I’ll highlight the distinctions between these two terms and explore their interconnection.

Next, I’ll break down each of these aspects, discussing them individually and guiding you on how to accurately calculate them.

Let’s get started.

I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Understanding electricity consumption: power vs. energy.

To understand the electricity consumption of your RV air conditioner, you’ll first need to understand how that electricity consumption is measured.

There are 2 main units that matter the most when trying to measure the electricity usage of an air conditioner : kWh and kW, and although they look similar, they measure two different aspects of electricity, and should not be used interchangeably.

• kWh : This stands for kiloWatt-hours and is equal to 1000 Wh (Watt-hours). kWh and Wh are the conventional units for measuring Electrical Energy . For example, we can say that an RV air conditioner consumes 10 kWh (or 10,000 Wh) per day, or a solar panel produces 1 kWh (1000 Wh) per day.
• kW : This stands for kiloWatts and is equal to 1000 W (Watts) . kW and W are the conventional units used to measure Electrical Power . For example, we can say that an RV AC unit is using 1000 Watts of power at a given moment, or, a solar panel is producing 120 Watts at a given moment.

The difference, or rather, the relationship between kWh (Energy) and kW (Power), is that Power measures the rate at which Energy is being transferred (consumed or produced). This relationship can be expressed as follows:

Energy (in Wh or kWh) = Power (in W or kW)  x Time (in hours)

For example, if a TV continuously uses 30 Watts of power and is left on for 10 hours, it could be said that the TV consumed 300 Wh of energy during those 10 hours (30 Watts x 10 hours).

If the same TV is only left on for 30 minutes (0.5 hours), it could be said that it consumed 15 Wh during that 30 minutes (30 Watts x 0.5 hours).

Learn more about Energy (kWh) and Power (kW), and the difference between them here .

There are 2 more units that measure electricity, which would be useful to know about. These units are Amps (A) and Volts (V) , which respectively measure Amperage (Current) and Voltage (Potential) .

Learn more about Amps and Volts here .

Now, there is a relationship between Power (Watts), Current (Amps), and Voltage (Volts), and this relationship is expressed as follows:

Power (in Watts) = Amperage (in Amps)  x Voltage (in Volts)

For example, if an air conditioner operates at 120 Volts, and is rated at 10 Amps, the power rating (wattage) of the air conditioner can be calculated as such:

Power (W) = Amperage (A)  x Voltage (V)

Power (W) = 10 A  x 120 V

Power (W) = 1200 Watts

Power (kW) = 1.2 kilo-Watts

Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s dive into the electricity requirements for RV air conditioners.

How much power does an RV air conditioner use?

The amount of power that an RV AC uses will mainly depend on the cooling capacity of the air conditioner, which is measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units) . The higher the BTU rating of the RV AC, the more power (watts) will be required to run it.

Typically, RV air conditioners come in 13,500 or 15,000 BTU ratings. Air conditioners in this range usually operate at 1,300 to 1,500 watts, although in some instances, they might peak at 1,800 to 2,000 watts during normal operation.

However, during the initial startup phase, the power requirements of these air conditioners may surge and potentially reach up to 6,500 – 8,000 Watts.

This brief surge during startup is generally not a concern when running the AC on shore power. But if you plan to use an inverter or a generator to power your RV AC, the starting wattage becomes a critical consideration.

For larger RVs equipped with two air conditioners, such as 5th wheels, travel trailers, and motorhomes, the combined cooling capacity typically ranges from 27,000 to 30,000 BTUs.

If both air conditioners are running simultaneously, their power draw during normal operation could go up to 3,500 to 4,000 watts, but it can briefly spike to 8,000 to 10,000 watts when one AC starts up while the other is already running.

To visualize this, here’s a table that estimates the Power (Watts) and Current (Amps) requirements of RV air conditioners based on their BTU ratings:

It’s important to note that the values in the table are rough estimates, giving you an idea of how much power (in watts) and current (in amps) these RV air conditioners might potentially need during regular operation and when starting up.

While these estimates were calculated based on the typical electrical characteristics of these air conditioners, please keep in mind that the actual power consumption of your RV air conditioner depends on the specific model and its electrical specifications.

Let me explain how you can use the electrical specifications of your RV air conditioner to determine its power requirements.

The RV AC nameplate, often attached to the side of the unit on the roof, holds all the details you require to find out how much power your AC uses.

When you find it, if it doesn’t directly state the rated power usage in Watts, check for the Amperage and Voltage specifications.

The Amperage ratings of the air conditioner will usually be specified in Amps (or A for short) under RLA and/or FLA.

RLA stands for Rated Load Amps and refers to the maximum amount of electrical current (in Amps) that the compressor should draw when steadily providing the maximum output. For example, in the image above, you can see that the manufacturer specifies a  12.2 Amps compressor’s RLA.

FLA stands for Full Load Amps , and in this case, refers to the maximum amount of current that the air conditioner’s fan uses when providing the maximum output. For example, in the image above, you can see that the manufacturer specifies 3.4 Amps as the fan motor FLA.

Now, both the compressor and the fan draw current when the RV AC is running. Therefore, the amount of current, in Amps, that the RV AC may potentially require during normal operation can be calculated as follows:

Potential Running Amps = Compressor’s RLA (Amps) + Fan Motor’s FLA (Amps)

In our particular example, the potential amp draw of the air conditioner is:

Potential Running Amps = 12.2 Amps + 3.4 Amps

Potential Running Amps = 15.6 Amps

Now that we know the amperage of the air conditioner (15.6 Amps) and the manufacturer specifies 115 Volts and the Voltage of the unit, we can calculate the potential running watts of the RV AC:

Potential Running Watts = Potential Running Amps x Voltage

Potential Running Watts = 15.6 Amps x 115 Volts

Potential Running Watts = 1794 Watts

According to these calculations, the air conditioner in our example should at most use 1794 Watts of power under full load.

Now, what we’ve just calculated is the “continuous” power usage of the unit, which is the amount of power it uses in its steady state of operation.

However, as previously mentioned, when the unit is initially turned on, it will require a much greater amount of power to initiate.

This amount of power that the RV AC uses when starting up can also be calculated using the Voltage rating of the unit (115 Volts) and the Surge Current specified by the manufacturer:

For example, if you take a second look at the nameplate of this AC unit, you can see that the manufacturer specifies “Compressor’s LRA” of 63 Amps .

LRA stands for “Locked Rotor Amps”, and it indicates the potential amount of current that the motor within the compressor might require to overcome its static state and gain momentum .

When you turn on the AC, the fan typically starts running first, and in a few seconds, the compressor kicks in. Therefore, the potential amp draw of the AC unit during startup can be calculated as follows:

Potential Starting Amps = Compressor’s LRA (Amps) + Fan Motor’s FLA (Amps)

Potential Starting Amps = 63 Amps + 3.4 Amps

Potential Starting Amps = 66.4 Amps

As a result, the potential starting wattage of this unit is:

Potential Starting Watts = Potential Starting Amps x Voltage

Potential Starting Watts = 66.4 Amps x 115 Volts

Potential Starting Watts = 7636 Watts

According to the specifications of this air conditioner, the unit could potentially require up to 7636 Watts (7.6 kW) of power to start up.

Now, it is important to note that this starting wattage is not typical, and represents a maximum, or a worst-case scenario. However, when sizing equipment that should be able to operate the RV AC, such as an inverter or a generator, this “potential” starting wattage should be taken into consideration.

Read more about this here:

• What size generator to run an RV AC?
• What size inverter to run an RV AC?

Now, as explained at the beginning of this article, the power usage (Watts) of the air conditioner is only one aspect of its electricity usage. An even more important aspect is the Energy Consumption of the unit, especially if you’re planning on running the RV AC on solar or on batteries .

This brings us to the next section.

How much energy does an RV air conditioner use?

As mentioned above, the amount of energy that your RV AC consumes will mainly depend on the power it draws when it’s running, as well as the unit’s usage duration.

However, just like any air conditioner, the energy consumption of an RV air conditioner will also depend on other factors, such as:

• The outdoor temperature
• The indoor temperature setpoint
• The quality of the RV’s insulation
• The efficiency of the unit

Be that as it may, as a rule of thumb, the average RV air conditioner will generally consume between 0.8 and 1.3 kWh of energy per hour. For example, if you leave your RV’s air conditioner for 6 hours a day, the AC unit should consume between 5 and 8 kWh of energy per day.

To provide some more perspective, the following table estimates the energy consumption of RV air conditioners of different BTU ratings:

The estimates provided in the table above should give you a good understanding of your RV air conditioner’s hourly energy consumption. This information can be combined with your daily usage patterns to calculate the daily or even monthly energy usage of the AC:

Daily Energy Usage (kWh/day) = Hourly Energy Usage (kWh/hour) x Daily Usage (hours/day)

For instance, a 15,000 BTU RV AC typically consumes about 0.9 to 1.3 kWh (kiloWatt-hours) of energy per hour of operation. If you assume it runs for 8 hours each day, this would translate to approximately 7 – 10 kWh of energy consumption daily.

If your RV has two ACs running simultaneously, it will naturally consume twice that amount of energy.

Now, if you’re interested in running your RV air conditioner using solar panels and batteries, I’ve prepared detailed posts on the subject. Here are the links:

• Tips for running an RV air conditioner on solar
• How much solar power to run an RV air conditioner?
• How many batteries to run an RV air conditioner?

If you plan to operate your RV AC with a generator, you may want to refer to this article to learn more about fuel consumption.

If your goal is simply to determine the costs associated with running your AC while connected to the grid, please continue reading.

How much does it cost to run an RV air conditioner?

The cost of running your RV air conditioner mainly depends on how much energy it consumes. This, in turn, is influenced by the AC unit’s cooling capacity and various operating factors like temperature, humidity, how long you use it each day, and how efficient it is.

Additionally, the final cost will vary depending on the electricity rates in the area.

As a general rule of thumb, RV air conditioners with ratings of 13,500/15,000 BTUs usually use about 1 to 1.2 kWh (kilowatt-hours) of energy for every hour they run. Considering the average cost of electricity in the United States, which is roughly 16 cents per kWh, this would mean an hourly cost of around 16 – 19 cents.

Assuming the same energy usage per hour, electricity cost, and an 8-hour daily operation, you can expect your RV air conditioner to cost approximately $1.4 per day or $42 per month to operate.

For a clearer view, here’s a table estimating the hourly operating cost of RV air conditioners based on their BTU rating:

The cost estimates provided in the table are based on the typical hourly energy consumption of these RV ACs, combined with the U.S. national average cost per kWh of about $0.16/kWh.

However, it’s vital to highlight that, aside from your RV AC’s energy use, the actual operating cost can vary significantly based on the local electricity rates. The real cost per kWh can fall anywhere between 10 to 30 cents ($0.1 to $0.3).

However, it is important to emphasize that, aside from your RV AC’s energy use, the actual operating cost can vary significantly based on the local electricity rates . Depending on the area, the actual cost per kWh can range from 10 to 30 cents a kWh ($0.1 to $0.3).

Let’s take a practical example. Suppose you have a 15000 BTU RV air conditioner that typically consumes 1.2 kWh of energy per hour, and that you run it for 8 hours each day.

To find the daily energy usage:

Daily Energy Consumption (kWh/day) = Average Hourly Energy Consumption (kWh/hour) x Daily Usage Duration (hours/day)

Daily Energy Consumption (kWh/day) = 1.2 kWh/hour x 8 hours/day

Daily Energy Consumption (kWh/day) = 9.6 kWh/day

Now, let’s assume your RV is hooked up somewhere in Texas, where the average cost per kWh, according to the Energy Information Administration (EIA) , is about 14.2 cents ($0.142) per kWh.

With these assumptions in mind, the daily cost of running the air conditioner can be calculated as follows:

Daily Cost ($/day) = Daily Energy Consumption (kWh/day) x Cost per kWh ($/kWh)

Daily Cost ($/day) = 9.6 kWh/day x $0.142/kWh

Daily Cost ($/day) = $1.36 per day

For the monthly cost:

Monthly Cost ($/month) = Daily Cost ($/day) x 30 (days/month)

Monthly Cost ($/month) = $1.36/day x 30

Monthly Cost ($/month) = $40.8 per month

To save you time, I’ve created a calculator that can estimate the daily and monthly costs of running your RV air conditioner based on its BTU rating, daily usage hours, and location:

Younes Anas EL IDRISSI

Younes Anas EL IDRISSI is the founder of RenewableWise.com and the driving force behind it. As a former Electrical Engineer and an energy self-sufficiency enthusiast , Younes' mission is to leverage his expertise and experience to simplify the complexities of solar energy and make it easily understandable for anyone looking into DIY energy solutions . Learn more about Younes and the story of RenewableWise here .

Hi Younes, Can you answer a question. I would like to run my a/c in my 5th wheel while going down the road. (I do not have an onboard generator). Can the truck alternator provide enough amps to keep the 5th wheel batteries charged and running the a/c. If I understand what I am asking, it is DC (alternator) to DC (batteries) to inverter AC to run the a/c How do you accomplish this. Thanks Bob.

Hey there Bob,

The amps that the alternator produces might be enough to run the AC if you’re driving at highway speed. However, I don’t think the alternator alone is enough to run the AC for a long time, as air conditioners use a relatively high amount of energy. At some point, the batteries will be depleted and will have to be recharged externally. Hope this helps.

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Best RV AC Units Reviewed 2024 (13,500 & 15,000 BTU)

What Is The Best RV AC Unit?

RV air conditioners have changed a lot over the years and it may be time for an upgrade.

Big brand names like Dometic, Airxcel/Coleman, and Advent have been making better, more efficient, and sometimes slimmer, AC units for campers.

Related Product: Power an RV AC using a smaller generator using a Hutch Mountain Microair Easy Start (click to view on Amazon)

Newer RV air conditioners are not only better in design and function.

Did you know you can install an RV air conditioner in a normal vent cover with no ducts necessary?

You can have an extra AC in the bedroom of your travel trailer or easily install one in your van or newly converted bus.

See Also:  How To Easily Replace An RV AC With A Fan, Vent, or Skylight

I’ve researched the best RV AC units for ducted and non-ducted RVs, trailers, vans, buses, and even horse trailers.

There are 15,000 and 13,500 BTU RV air conditioners, low profile, and standard.

Whatever your RV AC need, this review has you covered.

Summary (Links to Amaz0n)

Best Overall – Dometic Brisk II RV Air Conditioner

Least Wind Resistance – Dometic Penguin II Low Profile RV AC

• Coleman Mach RV Air Conditioners
• Lowest Power Usage – ASA Electronics Advent Air RV AC
• Furrion Chill Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

Table of Contents show What Is The Best RV AC Unit? Best RV AC Units Reviews & Info 1. Dometic Brisk II RV Air Conditioner 2. Dometic Penguin II Low Profile RV AC 3. Coleman Mach RV Air Conditioners 4. ASA Electronics Advent Air RV AC 5. Furrion Chill Rooftop RV Air Conditioner What To Look For In An RV AC Unit Conclusion & My RV Air Conditioner Recommendations Frequently Asked Questions About RV Air Conditioners How can I make an RV AC run quieter? Why is the initial start up wattage higher than the running wattage on an RV AC Unit? How to run an RV AC with a small generator (Easy Start) Can RV air conditioners be recharged? Does an RV air conditioner run on propane? What causes RV air conditioners to freeze up? How to clean an RV air conditioner filter. Do I Need To Run A Dehumidifier When The RV AC Is Running?

Best Overall

Least Wind Resistance

Lowest Power Usage

Last update on 2024-05-01 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Best RV AC Units Reviews & Info

1. dometic brisk ii rv air conditioner.

Check Price at Amazon

Dometic is one of the biggest names in camper appliances and gear. There’s a good chance that the air conditioner on your RV is a Dometic.

The Brisk II is Dometic’s standard air conditioner for RVs, travel trailers, 5th-wheels, buses, and even vans.

If you’re replacing an older AC, the Brisk II is going to be a big upgrade.

Dometic spent 2 years redesigning its classic RV AC units.

They ended up making a more durable, lighter, quieter, smaller, and more environmentally friendly camper air conditioner.

It has 15% more airflow than the Brisk I and is 19% lighter.

Both the 13.5k BTU and the 15k BTU (click to view on Amazon) version of the Brisk II have an electrical rating of 115 V AC and are compatible with ducted or non-ducted systems.

On the high setting, they have a 350 CFM airflow which is higher than most.

They both use the universal 14″x14″ roof fit.

Almost all the vents in campers use a 14″x14″ hole as well so if you want an extra RV AC unit for your bedroom Dometic Brisk II will most likely work.

There is even a black version (click to view on Amazon) available.

Both sizes of units are 27.23″ long, 29.18″ wide, and 12.7″ tall.

See Also:  The Best Camping Gas Generators That Will Run Your RV AC

If you installing this camper air conditioner into a ducted system, use the Dometic Quick-Cool Return Air Package (click to view on Amazon) to replace the vent cover on the inside.

If you are installing a Brisk II Dometic RV AC in a non-ducted system like in a van, bus, small trailer, or camper you are going to need the compatible Dometic Non-Ducted Control Panel (click to view on Amazon) .

This ceiling panel is both a duct to blow out the cold air from the Dometic AC unit, and the control panel where you adjust the temperature and turn it on and off.

It is also compatible with the Dometic Brisk II with Heat (click to view on Amazon) if you want the AC+Heat combo.

Note that the Brisk II with heat weights significantly more than the standard Brisk II at 82 lbs.

Related:  Can You Replace A 13,500 BTU RV AC With A 15,000 BTU RV AC?

Now let’s talk about the differences between the 13,500 BTU and the 15,000 BTU Dometic Brisk II.

The 13,500 BTU Brisk II which is the smaller version weighs 72 lbs, uses 3,953 initial start-up watts, and uses 1,670 watts when running.

If you are going to run this with a generator, I suggest getting one that has at least 5,000 running watts.

The Dometic Brisk II 15,000 BTU weighs 75 lbs, uses 4,392 initial start-up watts and 1,725 watts when running.

The 15,000 BTU RV AC unit is 11% more powerful than the 13,500 BTU unit.

It can run on the same size of generator and doesn’t take that much more power or weigh much more.

If you are buying an AC for a bus, RV, travel trailer, or 5th-wheel I suggest going with the 15,000 BTU because you get more bang for your buck and it puts out more cold air.

The Dometic Brisk II RV Air Conditioner is a true classic when it comes to RV air conditioners.

Dometic makes high-quality RV accessories and its standard RV AC unit is affordable and works just like it should.

It’s perfect if you already have a Dometic unit and need a replacement that will be an upgrade.

• 13,500 & 15,000 BTU Options
• Ducted & Non-Ducted Compatible
• Lightweight
• High Profile Creates Wind Drag

2. Dometic Penguin II Low Profile RV AC

The Dometic Penguin II is a lot like the Brisk II just a much more low profile version.

It’s a fantastic option if you have a large RV or trailer with multiple AC units or you travel a lot and want to cut down on fuel costs with a more aerodynamic RV air conditioner.

It has all the benefits of the Dometic Brisk II, like the lower vibrations, quieter running, and high cold air output but with half the height.

There is a 13.5K BTU polar white and a black version (click to view on Amazon) available.

Now for the differences.

The Dometic Penguin II is short, measuring only 10 inches tall once installed, but it is longer than your average RV AC unit, measuring 40 inches long and 29 inches wide.

It’s also much heavier than the Dometic Brisk II reviewed above.

The 13,5000 version weighs 99 lbs and is for non-ducted campers only.

You need a Dometic Control Assembly (click to view on Amazon) to run it.

The electrical rating is 115V AC, initial start up watts is 3,953 with 1,731 running watts, and airflow on high is 320 CFM.

See Also:  Best Portable Quiet Inverter Generators For RV Camping

The “High Capacity” or 15,000 BTU Penguin II (click to view on Amazon) weighs 110 lbs and is both duct and non-duct compatible. The electrical rating is 120V AC.

The initial start up watts is 4,392 with 1,762 running watts.

When using it in the ducted application, it can be controlled using the Dometic Duo Therm Comfort Control 2 (click to view on Amazon) .

The airflow on high is 310 CFM.

Both versions of the Penguin II can be run with a 5,000 or higher watt generator and have the universal 14″x14″ opening for almost any RV or trailer vents.

The Dometic Penguin II Low Profile RV AC has all the things you love about Dometic RV air conditioners but with a very slim aerodynamic body.

The low profile will save you on gas mileage, especially if you have more than one.

Some people even use these on small trailers or vans because luggage racks fit over them. The only downside is how heavy they are.

• Only 10″ Tall
• Less Wind Resistance Than Standard Options
• 15K BTU Ducted & Non-Ducted Compatible
• 13.5K Non-Ducted Only

3. Coleman Mach RV Air Conditioners

Airxcel makes the Coleman Mach RV air conditioners, which are also very popular in the world of camping.

Its RV AC units are a lot like the Dometic Brisk II in power usage and style.

But they have a few additions in quality and craftsmanship that make their RV air conditioners some of the best around.

There are two size options, the Coleman Mach 15 Plus that is 15,000 BTU (linked to in the picture above). And the Coleman Mach 3 Plus, which is 13,500 btu.

The Coleman Mach 3 Plus (click to view on Amazon) is powerful enough to work as a ducted and non-ducted unit.

If you use it as a non-ducted RV AC, get the compatible Coleman Mach Non-Duct Ceiling Assembly (click to view on Amazon) .

The Mach 3 Plus has a heating element with a 5,600 BTU rating and weighs 90 lbs.

It has a 115V AC electrical rating, uses 3,500 initial start up watts, and runs on 1,695 watts.

It produces a 320 CFM airflow, weighs a reasonable 90 lbs, and has all copper tubing and gas-flux brazed joints for durability when driving down the road.

The Coleman Mach 15 Plus comes in white or black (click to view on Amazon) and also weighs 90 lbs.

It has an electrical rating of 115V AC, the initial start up watts are 3,900, and runs on 1,800 watts.

The airflow on high is 320 CFM. All the tubing is gas-flux brazed copper.

If you want an RV air conditioner and heater combo, there is a version of the Coleman Mach 15 Plus with heating and cooling capabilities (click to view on Amazon) .

Both sizes of Coleman Mach RV AC units are duct and non-duct compatible with a variety of uses, such as vans, buses, and small RVs.

If you are replacing an existing ducted RV AC with a Colman Mach, you can use the existing thermostat already on your RV or trailer.

If you are installing a brand new system, you will need a Coleman Mach Thermostat (click to view on Amazon) .

See Also:  Best Portable Power Station/Solar Generator For Camping

All the Coleman Mach camper air conditioners in this review fit in the universal 14″x14″ hole and are 42″ long, 28″ wide, and 16″ tall.

Both versions need to be run with a 5,000 watt or larger generator.

The Coleman Mach RV Air Conditioners are made with high-quality materials and put together the right way.

They will withstand the constant bumps of long dirt roads and freeways.

If you spend most of your time boondocking and driving on rough roads, the Coleman brand may stay in better shape than other RV AC brands.

• Duct & Non-Duct Compatible
• Lowest Initial Start Up Watt Usage (Both Versions)
• RV AC/Heater Combo Option

4. ASA Electronics Advent Air RV AC

ASA Electronics is another large camper air conditioner brand.

Its 13,500 btu RV AC is one of the few you can run with a 3,500 watt generator without using a soft start kit (read more about RV AC soft start kits in FAQ section below).

There is both a 15,000 BTU (click to view on Amazon) and 13,500 BTU option.

Both sizes of the Advent rooftop RV air conditioners are made with metal base pans, non-ozone depleting coolants, and silicone coated cooling fins to reduce freeze-ups.

They have a 320 cfm airflow and both are duct and non-duct compatible.

You need the ASA non-ducted ceiling assembly (click to view on Amazon) for non-duct installation.

Both versions run off of 115V AC power and fit 14.25″x14.25″ holes.

Advent’s 13,500 BTU RV air conditioner weighs 69 lbs and measures 35″ long, 30″ wide, and 13.2″ tall.

It uses 3,000 initial watts and runs on 1,450 watts. You can run it with a 3,500 watt generator.

See Also:  Best Indoor & Outdoor Weather Stations For Home And RV

The 15,000 BTU RV AC unit weighs 69 lbs and measures 33.5″ long, 25.6″ wide, and 15″ tall.

It uses 4,500 initial watts and runs on 1,800 watts. You need a 5,000 watt generator to run it.

The ASA Electronics Advent Air RV AC Units are the more basic camper air conditioners, but when you need to keep your RV, trailer, van, or bus cool, they will do the job.

The 13,500 option could be the best choice for van owners because it’s the lightest RV AC unit in this review and also uses the lowest start up watts.

• Good Basic Option
• 13.5K BTU Uses Least Amount Of Watts

5. Furrion Chill Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

The Furrion Chill Rooftop RV AC units not only look different from your average camper air conditioner, they also use slightly different BTU ratings.

Instead of going with the standard 13,500 and 15,000, the Furrion Chills are 14,500 and 15,500 BTUs.

The difference is small, but it’s something to note when reviewing.

Both sizes of the Furrion RV AC units have two fans which help with better air distribution and efficiency.

Furrion advertises them to be 25% more efficient than the standard single fan RV AC’s.

For better durability and resistance against the wear and tear of RV travel, these RV AC units use Vibrationsmart and Climatesmart technology.

The Vibrationsmart helps keep everything together while driving. The Climatesmart helps the RV AC work at full capacity in extreme climates.

Like all RV AC units, the Furrion Chill goes on the roof, and reducing wind resistance to help with gas mileage is a priority.

To help with this, the units are fairly lightweight and have an aerodynamic design with a narrow nose that cuts into the wind and directs it away.

See Also:  Best Remote Start Generators – Portable & Inverter

The 14,500 BTU version (linked to above) weighs 88 lbs and measures 35 inches long, 28 inches wide, and 14 inches tall.

It uses 115V power, and runs with 3,450 starting watts, and 1,620 running watts.

The 15,500 BTU (click to view on Amazon) weighs 90 lbs and measures around 36 inches long, 28.5 inches wide, 14 inches tall.

It’s not that much larger than the 14,500 version.

It uses 115V power and runs with 3,760 watts and 1,720 running watts.

The Furrion Chills are compatible with both ducted and non-ducted systems.

For either system you will need to get the Furrion Chill Air Distribution Box (click to view on Amazon) and the Furrion Single Zone Wall Thermostat (click to view on Amazon) .

The Furrion Chill Rooftop RV Air Conditioner is going to be the best choice for a direct Furrion RV AC replacement.

It’s also a nice upgrade if you are looking to swap out your old rooftop RV AC for a newer one.

The power usage of both versions is fairly low and they aren’t as heavy as some of the other RV AC units in this review.

Furrion is a very trusted name in the camper industry and you may already have a lot of its products in your own RV or trailer.

They make good quality RV products and the Chill AC units are built to last and cool in hot climates.

• 14,500 & 15,500 BTU Options
• Made For Extra Hot Climates
• Fairly Quiet When Running
• Need To Get Inner Cover & Thermo Control
• No Single Non-Ducted Cover

What To Look For In An RV AC Unit

Total Watts Used (Starting Watts)

If you only look at the running watts used, an RV roof AC doesn’t look like it needs very much power.

But if your generator isn’t powerful enough, or you are plugged into a 15 or 20 amp outlet, you will definitely trip the breaker when you try to run it.

The reason for this is the initial or start up watts that are used to start the compressor inside the AC unit.

To get things running, an AC will use a high surge of power that is normally about double what the running watts are.

Many home electronics like microwaves and residential refrigerators do this as well, which is why campers have their own specialty appliances that are more power friendly.

Even if you are plugged into 30 or 50 amp shore power, make sure you aren’t using too many appliances when you start up the RV air conditioner because the surge watts could still trip the breaker.

If you are planning on using a generator to run your RV AC, look at the surge watts so you know how many total watts it will need to output to start the compressor.

There is a way around the start up watts you can read about in the FAQ section below.

RV AC units are a lot heavier than they look.

While the wiring and general installation process are fairly easy, getting the old unit off of the camper roof and getting the new one up safely can be a bit of a challenge.

If you don’t have the resources to lift a heavy 100 lbs rooftop air conditioner onto your camper, consider getting one of the lighter ones.

Weight could also be a factor when loading your camper. If you never use your RV AC, getting rid of that extra weight will help a lot.

Related:  How To Easily Replace An RV AC With A Fan, Vent, or Skylight

Ducted Or Non-Ducted

Many large RVs, travel trailers, and 5th-wheels come with ducted RV air conditioners.

The duct openings are the round vents you may have noticed throughout your camper’s ceiling.

Many RV AC units are compatible with ducted campers, but some are for non-ducted only.

Non-ducted RV AC units are found mostly in smaller trailers and vans.

Instead of a duct system, the air is blown out directly under the unit via an interior vent cover.

The difference between a non-ducted RV AC inside cover and a ducted one is normally the control system.

On a ducted system, the controls are normally on the thermostat on the wall.

A non-ducted system usually has the controls on the inner vent cover itself.

If you are planning on replacing the RV AC unit in your camper, finding out if it’s a ducted system may help you decide on which one is best for you.

Conclusion & My RV Air Conditioner Recommendations

Even in mild climates, campers can get really warm inside. The sun has a way of heating them up.

If you camp in a van, it can be even more difficult to stay cool on hot sunny days.

RV air conditioner units are one of the best ways to keep your RV cool, but only if you are connected to 30 amp or 50 amp power or have a high power generator.

Standard RV AC units won’t work with regular 15 or 20 amp 120V outlets (home wall outlets) because of the high initial watt usage.

See Also:  Best RV Roof Caulks: When To Use Self Leveling Lap Sealants

That being said, there is a way to add what’s called an easy start, sometimes referred to as a “soft start” that allows you to use an RV AC with a smaller generator.

You can read more about it in the FAQ section below.

All the RV AC units in this review are the standard rooftop kind and the options are mostly between the 13,500 and 15,000 BTU versions.

Looking at things like total power usage, weight, and wind resistance will help you choose the best style for your camper.

I have to go with the Dometic Brisk II as the best overall RV air conditioner.

The reason it beat out similar RV ACs is mostly because of the overall performance and weight.

It’s around 20 lbs lighter than the other high performance option in this review.

Saving weight not only helps when installing, but helps save on travel costs in the long run.

Another reason it’s my top pick is it has the highest airflow output in this review.

Airflow is important for cooling down RVs because they don’t normally have great insulation.

It can take a lot of initial cold air to cool them down.

Another thing I like about Dometic is the availability of replacement parts.

They have excellent customer service and because of how used their brand is you can find a lot of their parts at local dealers and RV stores.

The unit is compact and has a sleek aerodynamic design that will reduce wind drag and hold up against all kinds of weather and the sun.

If you are a snowbird or full-time RVer who travels long distances in an RV or trailer, getting an RV AC unit that doesn’t stick up very high is a good idea for a few reasons.

The biggest benefit to a low profile RV AC like the Dometic Penguin II, is saving on gas mileage.

It also reduces the risk of being too tall for structures you have to drive under, like gas station roofs and bridges.

It may not seem like a lot, but 6 inches of height can be the difference between smashing the RV AC into something and narrowly missing it.

I’ve seen several destroyed rooftop air conditioners, and it was just a few inches too tall every time.

If you are tired of worrying about the bulky RV AC on the roof and want to save a little on gas mileage, switching to a low profile RV AC will help a lot.

Lowest Power Usage (Initial & Running Watts) – ASA Electronics Advent Air RV AC

If you like having an RV AC, but you rarely camp connected to 30 or 50 amp power, consider getting a low power air conditioner like the ASA Electronics Advent 13,500 BTU.

It uses the least amount of both running watts (1,4500) and starting watts (3,000).

Most RV AC units require a 4,000 to 5,000 watt generator, but the Advent could be run with a 3,000 water generator with a high surge watt rating.

You could even use a 2,000 watt generator if you add a soft start kit.

It’s not the most powerful option, but for boondockers and dry campers, it could be the most usable option.

See Also:  Best Foldable Solar Panel Chargers For Camping

Frequently Asked Questions About RV Air Conditioners

How can i make an rv ac run quieter.

RV AC units are loud. The compressor humming combined with the large, loud fan running usually results in a lot of noise.

To make things worse, everything is happening directly over your head, which makes it that much more annoying.

It’s mostly something you just have to live with if you want cold air inside your RV.

If it seems like your RV AC unit is way louder than it should be, you can check a few things to fix it.

First, make sure all the bolts and screws securing the unit to the roof are tight.

You may need to remove the inner cover to get to the main bolts. Once you’ve tightened those, make sure the inner cover is replaced and secured.

Cleaning the filter may also help reduce noise, as the fan could be working overtime to push air through a dirty filter.

Also check the fan underneath the shroud. It’s not uncommon for debris to get caught underneath the cover.

If there’s stuff inside the RV AC, the fan will move it around, which can make a lot of noise and vibrations.

There are also products out there called RV AC Silencers. They are basically an inner cover that is insulated to help reduce the noise that gets into the camper.

The last thing you can try is upgrading your RV air conditioner.

Newer fans are much quieter and a brand new fully charged RV AC probably won’t have to be run as long to fully chill your RV and less run time means less noise.

Why is the initial start up wattage higher than the running wattage on an RV AC Unit?

Camper air conditioners use compressors to cool down air and when a compressor starts up it draws a lot of power to get going.

Once it’s started, it drops back down to what is called the running wattage.

Some people are fooled when they see the wattage of an AC and think they can use a small generator to run it.

In most cases, they will need a generator that can output almost double the number of running watts to start the RV AC’s compressor.

How to run an RV AC with a small generator (Easy Start)

Now you know what initial start up watts are and why you need a large generator to run an RV air conditioner.

But there is a way to cheat the system and run an RV AC on a smaller generator by using a soft start.

With a soft start, you can use a 2000 watt Honda generator or a 3,000 watt generator of any other brand with a 121cc engine to run most 13,500 and 15,000 BTU RV air conditioners.

You can also use the soft start to run 2 RV AC units at the same time on a 30 amp power source.

The best soft start is the Hutch Mountain MicroAir Easy Start (click to view on Amazon) .

It works by using a microprocessor to deliver the perfect amount of power at a certain time to start up the air compressor.

In other words, it tricks the compressor into starting even though the initial watts are lower than it normally needs.

The soft start connects directly to your AC roof unit and is an easy installation.

For detailed instructions, check out this video by the RVgeeks.

Can RV air conditioners be recharged?

RV air conditioners are not made to be recharged.

If your AC system is leaking the refrigerant, there may be something that needs fixing or the unit will need to be replaced.

Does an RV air conditioner run on propane?

No, RV air conditioners run on electricity only, even the ones with heating elements.

What causes RV air conditioners to freeze up?

A common problem with the AC units on RVs is the coils or cooling fins freezing up.

If your AC is getting noisy, or the fan isn’t blowing out the normal amount of cold air, you may have a frozen unit.

You can check by taking off the shroud on your RV’s AC and looking for visible ice.

If your AC is frozen, turn it off immediately. Further freezing can damage it.

There are a few reasons an AC freezes: the coils are dirty, there is a lot of moisture in the air, the thermostat isn’t working correctly, the refrigerant levels are low, the air filter is clogged, or the condenser coils are dirty.

I suggest checking the air filter first because that’s the most common problem.

Once you’ve cleaned the air filter, run the fan part of the AC for a few hours.

This will defrost the coils. If the coils look dirty, clean them before turning your AC back on.

How to clean an RV air conditioner filter.

A dirty RV air conditioner filter is the most common reason for an RV AC to not be putting out enough air.

If you use your RV AC regularly, you need to check the filter at least once a month. A dirty AC filter can damage the AC or cause it to freeze up.

You can clean an RV AC filter a few times with water or even with a vacuum. Eventually, the filter will need to be replaced because even cleaning it with water and a vacuum will not be enough.

The good news is RV AC filters are easy to find and inexpensive.

Do I Need To Run A Dehumidifier When The RV AC Is Running?

I’ve written a full post answering this question. You can find it here.

Have any more questions about RV air conditioners? Leave a comment below.

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Can You Run Your RV AC While Boondocking?

One of the biggest challenges of boondocking is maintaining climate control, especially during the hot summer months. Your RV air conditioner can help you beat the heat, but can you run it while boondocking? The answer is not a simple yes or no.

It is possible to run your RV air conditioner while off the grid. If you are using a generator,  the power output of that generator is the main factor to consider. If you are on battery power, your inverter size, battery capacity and solar capacity must all be factored in. 

There are a variety of factors that influence your ability to run your air conditioner while boondocking. In this article, we’ll explore the ins and outs of running your RV air conditioner while boondocking, and provide you with some practical tips to make it work. 

Factors to Consider Before Using Your RV AC While Boondocking

Before deciding if and how you will power up your RV air conditioner while you are boondocking, make sure you have considered each of the following variables:

• Power Requirements of Your AC Unit
• Power Output of Your Generator
• Capacity of Your Inverter
• Capacity of Your Battery and Solar System

1. Power Requirements of Your AC Unit

The first thing you will want to know is the size of your RV’s AC unit, which is measured in BTUs. The number of BTUs indicates the amount of energy the AC unit uses to remove heat from the inside air.

The vast majority of RV air conditioners are 15,000 BTU roof-mounted units that run on 120 volt AC power. Depending on its length, an RV might have one, two or three of these AC units. Each of these units draws 3500 watts when initially starting up (this is called “surge current”), then draws 1500 watts when running.

Some smaller RVs have 5000 BTU units that run on 120 volt AC power. These units require 1000 watts to start up and will use 450 watts when running continuously. 

Some RV air conditioning units do not operate on 120 volt AC power, but instead are 12 volt DC units that can run directly off of the battery system. This is a newer technology that is best used in smaller RVs with less square footage needing to be cooled.

Look through your RV owner’s manual to determine the size and type of your RV’s AC.

The initial startup (the “surge current”) of a 120 volt AC air conditioner is the most important variable to pay attention to when calculating the power demands of the unit. When you are plugged into shore power at an RV park, you don’t need to think about your air conditioner turning on and off, since the shore power is supplying enough watts to your RV’s power system. For example, a 30 amp plug supplies 3600 continuous watts (30 amps x 120 volts) and a 50 amp plug supplies 6000 watts. 

But when you are boondocking without hookups, and therefore need other power sources that will likely be limited (as we will discuss later in this article), every high-power demand must be paid attention to.

One way to reduce the initial startup (“surge current”) wattage of your RV’s AC is to install a soft start kit such as a MicroAir EasyStart . The EasyStart regulates the amount of voltage going to the motor of an AC unit when it starts up, gradually increasing the start-up current. 

With an EasyStart, the start current is reduced up to 65-75%. For a 15,000 BTU unit that normally takes 3500 watts when starting, the EasyStart reduces that to be no more than the operating current of 1500 watts. This lower power requirement greatly helps when working with a more limited power supply.

If you have multiple AC units, remember that each of the AC units will have power demands, especially when starting up. Depending on your power supply, you may need to only use one AC unit while boondocking, and keep the other unit(s) turned off the entire time.

2. Power Output of Your Generator

If you are using a generator while boondocking and want to run your RV air conditioner, your generator’s power output, which is measured in watts, must be able to handle your AC’s power consumption. 

Your generator’s power output (watts) can easily be found in your owner’s manual and is also often printed right on the side of the generator. 

Once you familiarize yourself with the power requirements of your RV’s AC unit as well as the power output of your generator, you will know very clearly whether your generator is capable of powering your AC. 

For example, as we discussed above, the 15,000 BTU roof-mounted AC that is installed on most RVs requires 3500 watts to start up and 1500 watts to run. If you have a 3500 watt generator or larger, you will have all you need to power up your AC and keep it running. If you have an EasyStart installed, a 2000 watt generator will be sufficient to run your AC.

If you have a factory installed on-board generator that is permanently wired into your power system, that generator will have enough wattage to be able to run your air conditioning unit. 

3. Capacity of Your Inverter

If you don’t use a generator to provide 120 volt AC power directly to your RV, you will be relying on your 12 volt DC battery system to power everything, using what’s called an inverter. This built-in inverter is used to convert the 12 volt DC battery power to 120 volt AC power.  

However, does your inverter have enough watts to run large 120 volt AC appliances such as an air conditioning unit? Remember that even with an EasyStart installed, a 15,000 BTU air conditioner will need 1500 watts to run. 

Unfortunately, most RVs come with inverters that convert less than 1500 watts. In the minds of most RV manufacturers,  a lower capacity inverter (typically 1200 watts) is much cheaper to install and is sufficient enough to run most things (such as small appliances and electronics) whenever the RV is unplugged. 

With this kind of power system configuration that uses a lower capacity inverter, a boondocking RVer is expected to do without the power-hungry appliances such as an AC unit or a microwave. These larger appliances don’t even turn on whenever the RV is unplugged. 

An automatic switch (called a transfer switch) is used to supply the 120 volt AC power to large appliances whenever the RV is plugged in, and will disconnect the power to those same appliances whenever the RV is not plugged in. 

As we stated earlier, if you have an on-board generator that is wired permanently into your power system, your air conditioner and other large appliances are able to power on after you start your on-board generator, even if you are not plugged in shore power. 

If your inverter can’t run your air conditioner and other large appliances, you may want to consider replacing your inverter with a higher capacity one. We highly recommend the Victron Energy MultiPlus-II . This MultiPlus model is actually an inverter, a converter (battery charger) and a transfer switch all in one. With a MultiPlus in place, your RV would be fully equipped to run your air conditioner and any other large appliance.

Installing a MultiPlus requires a high amount of technical know-how and likely a reworking of your RV’s power system. If you don’t feel comfortable taking on this kind of installation, you can do some online research or calling around to see who in your area could do the work for you.

We highly recommend you don’t try to modify your RV’s power system unless you are absolutely certain you understand what you are doing.

Note: If you are new to RVing, we recommend getting a complete understanding of how each of your appliances are powered. For example, your water heater is likely powered by 120 volt AC when AC is supplied, and powered by propane when it’s not. Your refrigerator may run on 120 volt AC when AC is supplied, or propane and 12 volt DC whenever you are disconnected from 120 volt AC power.

4. Capacity of Your Battery and Solar System

Assuming you have an inverter like a MultiPlus that is capable of powering your air conditioner, the next variable to factor in is your battery and solar system. You must have a battery and solar system that can handle running your AC as long as needed. A 15,000 BTU air conditioner drawing 1500 watts continuously will drain batteries quickly, so it’s necessary to have enough batteries to handle that drain and enough solar to continuously recharge the batteries as they drain.

If your batteries are lead acid, you shouldn’t try to use them for power-hungry appliances like an AC. Lead acid batteries won’t last long at all and if you drain them down below 50% capacity you might ruin them long term. 

A large bank of lithium batteries, on the other hand, would have what it takes to run your AC for a while. We recommend Battle Born lithium batteries , and you would need to install a number of them to have a high enough battery capacity. 

Battery capacity is measured in amp hours, a measurement used to indicate how much power the battery can provide before it runs out. A common lithium battery can provide 100 amp hours, so if you had five of them linked together your system would have a capacity of 500 amp hours.

To determine how fast a 15,000 BTU air conditioner will drain a 12 volt lithium battery system, the following formula is used:

Watts / Volts = Amps

Using this formula we know that a 15,000 BTU air conditioner using 1500 watts continuously from a 12 volt battery system would use up 125 amps (1500 watts / 12 volts ) from your battery system after only one hour! This is more than what one 100 amp lithium battery can provide. When we consider this reality, we see how important it is to have a fairly large bank of lithium batteries to be able to run your AC.

Note: Calculating amp use of a large RV appliance is often misunderstood when its power source could be either 120 volts AC (from shore power or a generator) or 12 volts DC (from the battery system). When a 15,000 BTU RV air conditioner is powered directly by 120 volts AC (from shore power or a generator), it draws 12.5 amps (1500 watts / 120 volts). But when it’s powered by a 12 volt battery system, the air conditioner draws 125 amps from that system as we just described. Even though the 12 volts DC is being converted to 120 volts AC by the inverter, the power source is still 12 volts. Thus, 12 volts must be used in the formula to get the true amp draw from the battery system!

In addition to needing a large bank of lithium batteries, a large array of solar panels is required to recharge the bank of batteries. We stated earlier that when a 15,000 BTU air conditioner runs on battery it’s going to draw 1500 watts (or 125 amps) continuously from the battery system.

Thus, the array of solar panels needs to keep up with resupplying that same amount. A general rule of thumb is to have 250 watts of solar for every 100 amp hours of battery. A 500 amp hour battery bank should ideally be matched with 1250 watts of solar. 

If your RV was equipped with this kind of battery and solar system, you could plan to run your AC unit for a while. You would know your solar panels were recharging your batteries at a good rate, and your panels would continue to recharge the batteries quickly after you turn off your AC. 

Of course this is all assuming it was a sunny day and your solar panels were not being blocked by trees.

Things to Keep in Mind When Running Your AC

If you have everything you need to run your AC while boondocking, there are a few things to keep in mind.

• Your other appliances need power too. In this entire article, we’ve been focused on the power requirements and demands of the air conditioner. Keep in mind all of your other appliances and electronics that also will need power when you are boondocking. 
• Larger generators are loud. If you decide to bring along a larger generator just to be able to run your AC, it will be much louder than a smaller generator. The generator noise might overcome the peace and quiet you would be enjoying otherwise.
• Cloudy weather may reduce your solar energy. If you are equipped to run your AC off of battery and solar and are hoping to use your AC, check the weather forecast to make sure you’ll be getting enough sun while you are boondocking.

Other Ways to Stay Cool

While running an RV air conditioner while boondocking is certainly possible with the right equipment, most RVs don’t have all that right equipment. Even if your RV is properly equipped, running your AC may not always be the most practical or efficient. 

If you’re looking for alternative ways to stay cool when boondocking, here are some options to consider:

• Portable air conditioner : If you can’t or don’t want to run your large RV air conditioner, you can invest in a smaller, portable air conditioner that doesn’t draw as much power.
• Evaporative (swamp) cooler : Another alternative to traditional RV air conditioners is a swamp cooler. These units work by evaporating water to cool the air, and they can be an effective way to keep your RV cool in dry climates. However, they do require a constant supply of water, and they can’t be used in more humid climates, so they may not be practical in all boondocking situations.
• Natural ventilation: Don’t forget the availability of natural ventilation. By opening your windows and using fans, you can create a cross-breeze that will help keep your RV cool and comfortable. This is a great option if you want to conserve power and enjoy the fresh air.

Running your RV air conditioner while boondocking is definitely possible, but it requires having the right power systems and equipment. By bringing the right generator, or having the proper battery bank and array of solar panels, you can stay cool when enjoying the great outdoors.

If you’re not equipped to run your RV air conditioner while boondocking, there are other options to consider, such as portable air conditioners, swamp coolers, and natural ventilation. Choose the method that works best for your specific needs and situation.

Related Questions

How can i extend my time boondocking.

The best way to extend boondocking time is to expand your utility capacity and storage. Increasing your supply of power, water and propane as well as supplementing your black and grey tank capacity, will prolong your stay many days. By minimizing your usage of power, water, propane and sewer, you can lengthen your time boondocking even more. Read our article How To Extend Your Time Boondocking In An RV .

How Do I Bring More Water for Boondocking?

When boondocking in remote locations, the stay is often cut short because you run out of fresh water. Increasing the amount of fresh water you can carry will allow you to extend your time boondocking without you running out of water. Read our article How to Carry Extra Water in an RV – 5 Ways to Expand Capacity .

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power an RV air conditioner with solar? Yes, It’s Possible – And Here’s How

• Last Updated: February 20, 2024
• 15 minutes read

Renewable energy alternatives are already popular for many new homes and green construction projects.

For RV owners, installing a solar panel on your RV roof is a great way to reduce your energy costs and increase your ability to live off-the-grid. 

But can solar power really generate enough wattage to power large appliances like your RV air conditioner?

So can you power  an  RV air conditioner  with  solar ? Yes, It is definitely possible to power even the largest RV air conditioning unit with solar power, but you’ll need to design your installation based on the size of your A/C unit and how much starting and running wattage it requires. These two factors, along with the size of the panels you install, will dictate how many panels you need to effectively use solar power for RV air conditioner power supply.

For example, many RV air conditioning units require somewhere between 1,700 and 3,500 starting watts and 600 to 1,500 running watts.

The exact wattage needs of your A/C unit, as well as the size of the solar panels you want to install, will dictate how many panels you need for a useful solar installation. 

So how can you properly set up your rig to use solar power for your RV air conditioner and other appliances? 

In this article, I’m going to explain the intricacies of setting up a solar power installation for an RV air conditioner.

I’ll also cover how solar panels work for an RV, how to choose panel size, and some frequently asked questions about solar power for RVs. 

But first, let’s briefly talk about the pros and cons of solar energy! 

RV Solar Power Pros and Cons

Solar energy is often touted as a “unending power source,” the reality of harnessing solar power is still a bit complicated.

Since you’re here researching solar power for your RV, I’m assuming you already know a bit about the topic.

So I want to use this section to simply provide a few important advantages and disadvantages of solar energy. 

The Pros of solar panels for RV

The biggest advantage of solar energy is renewability. Every day, the sun is going to rise, even if it’s cloudy and your installation isn’t able to function at optimal efficiency.

Putting the question of whether or not there are clouds in the sky to the side, the biggest benefit of solar energy is that it’s 100% renewable. 

Another benefit of solar energy is decreased reliance on the electric grid. For most RVers, the ability to plug in (or not) often dictates our travel itineraries.

Even when it’s not operating at 100% efficiency, solar energy can reduce your overall electricity costs and give you more freedom to explore remote locations. 

Solar energy can also be used for a variety of applications. While we’re focusing on using solar power for RV air conditioners in this article, solar energy can also be used for heating and other electrical applications. 

Lastly, solar energy also requires very little maintenance. Once you have your panels installed and wiring run correctly, you’ll probably only need to worry about cleaning your panels off three or four times a year to keep them operating efficiently.  

The Cons of Solar Energy

The most glaring disadvantage of solar energy is the initial setup cost. It’s not necessarily cheap to acquire solar panels to begin your RV solar power installation.

Then you’ll need batteries, wiring, an inverter, any necessary hardware to secure your panels properly to your RV’s roof. 

Solar energy is also very dependent on, you guessed it, cloud cover. Panels need direct sunlight to operate at peak efficiency.

Weather doesn’t always cooperate and it sometimes can be difficult to find a place to park that will give your panels direct sun exposure. 

Battery storage can be expensive and inefficient. Hooking batteries up to your solar panels allows you to charge them up while the sun is out so that you can use that energy for your appliances at night.

Unfortunately, large-capacity batteries can be quite expensive. 

Although the technology is rapidly improving efficient solar panels still require quite a bit of space.

Depending on the size of your RV and your power needs, your panel installation might end up taking up most of your existing roof space. 

How Solar Panels Work for an RV

To understand how solar panels can work for an RV air conditioner (or other appliances), we have to first understand the various parts of a proper solar installation.

At minimum, you have the solar panels themselves and a collection of batteries (often known as a ‘battery bank’) that provides power directly to all of your RV’s 12-volt DC electronics. 

In order to power any 120-volt AC electronics, like your air conditioner, you’ll need to install an inverter as well. In short, the panels collect solar energy and charge up your battery bank.

The battery bank supplies electricity directly to 12-volt DC electronics and indirectly, through an inverter, to 120-volt AC electronics. 

From a more technical standpoint, the function of a solar panel is actually to allow particles of light to free electrons from atoms.

In doing so, panels supply a flow of electricity into the battery bank to which they are connected.

That electricity is now stored in your batteries, but the amount of electricity you can store depends, at least somewhat, on the size of your batteries.

The electrical panel on every RV has an AC side and a DC side. Common batteries used in solar installations are able to supply power directly to the DC side of your RV’s electrical panel without the need for any conversion. 

Getting power to the AC side of your RV’s electrical panel, however, does require a conversion.

This means you’ll need to wire in an inverter between your battery bank and the AC side of your electrical panel if you want to use solar power for an RV air conditioner. 

All in all, the installation process isn’t overly complex, as long you understand the flow of energy from panel to battery to DC or through inverter to AC.

But the question of whether or not you can use solar power for RV air conditioner power supply really comes down to the size of the components (panels, batteries, inverter) that you select.  

How to Power an RV Air Conditioner with Solar

In order to provide enough power for an RV air conditioner, you’ll need to understand how much electricity the unit on your specific RV requires.

Then it becomes a matter of selecting the right size panels, batteries, and inverter to meet those electrical needs. 

1: Choosing The Size Of Your Solar Components To Power An RV Air Conditioner

For starters, you’ll need to know how many amps your air conditioner pulls during operation. Many RVs come with a standard air conditioning unit with a 13,500 BTU rating.

There are, however, certain RVs with larger A/C units rated much higher.

For the purposes of the calculations throughout the remainder of this section, we’re going to use averages for a 13,500 BTU air conditioning unit. 

If your RV’s electrical panel has an LED display that tells you how many amps you’re pulling, figuring out your draw might be as simple as turning on your A/C unit and reading the display.

However, this could also be a great opportunity to employ an RV surge protector with an LED display if your rig’s electrical panel doesn’t have a built-in LED monitor. 

Once you know how many amps your air conditioning pulls at different settings, you’ll have a few figures to work with as you determine the size of the various components you’ll need for your solar energy installation. 

2: Figure out how many solar panels you need To Run Your RV AC

In addition to the amperage drawn by your air conditioner, you should also think about how many hours a day you intend on running your A/C unit.

Running your A/C for four hours a day, for example, will draw 600 Ah per day from your batteries. 

If we assume that you’re parked near a hill where you only receive five hours of direct sunlight over the course of the day, then your solar panels will need to generate 120 amps for those full five hours every day in order to adequately recharge your batteries. 

So, How many solar panels do You need to run an RV air conditioner ? In order to keep this level of operation up for that 13,500 BTU A/C unit in your RV, you’d need to install a minimum of 1,728 watts of solar panels (120 amps x 14.4 volts = 1,728 watts).

This calculation assumes that you really do receive direct sunlight for that full five hours every day and that you’re not running any other appliances besides your air conditioning unit.

3: Sizing RV battery bank

Now we get to the actual storage of electricity. This involves a little less complex calculation, but it’s still an important part of sizing up your solar installation.

With this A/C unit that draws 150 amps, we’re going to need an extra 150 Ah of capacity for every hour that you plan to run your A/C at night or simply when the sun isn’t shining directly on your panels. 

I know that I’ve liked to run my A/C for an hour before I go to bed so that I’m more comfortable trying to fall asleep.

But that requires an extra 150 Ah of battery capacity that I might not have with my current setup. 

The capacity of your battery bank will determine how long you can continue to operate your RV conditioner on cloudy days or in the evenings.

Using my above example, if my current capacity is 500 Ah, I’d have to boost that up to closer to 650 Ah if I wished to run my A/C for that hour before climbing into bed. 

Calculating your minimum Ah capacity requires an understanding of several factors. First, you’ll have to determine your average electrical usage per day (measured in Watt hours).

Next, you’ll need to decide how many days of backup battery capacity you want to have on hand in case of emergency, or simply if you’re into off-grid RV travel. 

Then, you’ll need to analyze the average depth of discharge for your current battery bank. And finally, you’ll need to determine the average temperature your batteries will be exposed to wherever you’re living or traveling. 

Here is a great table that provides an example of how to calculate minimum Ah capacity for a battery bank: 

4: Connect the Inverter to The RV Solar Power System

The last essential piece of your solar installation is the DC-to-AC inverter. The size of your inverter will largely depend on the starting wattage of your air conditioning unit.

Most 13,500 BTU air conditioners have a starting wattage between 2800 and 3000 watts. However, you don’t want to necessarily max out your inverter every time you start up your A/C.

So, you’ll most likely want an RV inverter between 3500 and 4000 watts. Of course, this number will be higher if you have a larger air conditioning unit that requires a higher starting wattage. 

Running wattage, on the other hand, is usually less than starting wattage for all RV appliances, including your A/C unit.

That being said, be careful to look at starting wattage over running wattage when determining how large of an inverter to incorporate into your solar installation. 

While it’s possible to use a smaller inverter along with a soft start to reduce starting wattage, the safest way to design your installation is to use an inverter that’s rated for 700 to 1200 watts higher than the starting wattage of your RV air conditioning unit. 

How To Install Solar Panels On Your RV

When mounting solar panels on the roof of your RV, the method of installation will depend on whether you’ve chosen rigid or flexible panels.

Rigid panels require screws for secure mounting while certain flexible panels can use an adhesive material to affix to your roof.

If you do go the flexible panel route, make sure the material of your roof membrane is suited to the adhesive material you’re using to secure panels. 

Step 1: Layout Your Panels

Start by laying out your panels where you envision mounting them.

Make sure nearby vents or air conditioning units aren’t going to cast shade on the panels where you intend to mount them, as this will compromise the efficiency of your installation. 

It also makes sense to mount your panels as close to your battery bank as possible to avoid using excess wiring. 

Step 2: Secure Mounting Hardware

Next, secure the mounting hardware to your roof, being careful to apply an appropriate sealant under the hardware so that you maintain your roof’s watertight seal.

Make sure the sealant you choose is compatible with your roof membrane. You can always check with your RV manufacturer if you’re not sure. 

Step 3: Attach Panels to Mounting Hardware

The next step is to screw the panels themselves into the mounting hardware.

Be careful to aim for the frame of the panel so that you avoid screwing directly through the panel itself.

Doing this will reduce the effectiveness of the entire panel. 

Step 4: Run Wiring To Battery Bank

Once your panels are securely in place, it’s time to run wiring down into the RV and to your battery bank.

Three places that are commonly used to run wires down into the body of the RV are the refrigerator vent, a plumbing pipe, or simply by drilling a new hole in your desired location.

With all approaches, make sure you take appropriate steps to weatherproof all areas where changes have been made once wiring is run. 

Step 5: Connect Battery Bank to Electrical Panel (and Inverter!)

Finally, you’ll need to connect wiring to your battery bank and then run additional wiring to your RV’s electrical panel, or through an inverter before tying into the AC side of your panel.

Throughout the wiring process, it’s a healthy practice to use a multimeter to check wire polarity and mark wires appropriately for future reference. 

This will help you troubleshoot any issues that arise down the road and reduce the likelihood of failures on your initial tests.

It should be noted that messing around with electricity is no laughing matter. If you don’t have electrical experience, I recommend seeking professional assistance in this stage of your solar installation. 

Is the Cost And Hassle Worth it?

This is a tough question to answer because everyone assigns different values to the pros and cons of solar energy that I outlined above.

Solar energy, however, is definitely a long term investment and it requires running the numbers on your current electrical costs, costs of a solar installation, and lifetime savings over the life of your RV.

If you have a smaller RV with limited roof space, it probably doesn’t make much sense to invest in solar power because the number of panels you’ll need to obtain an efficient operation will be too numerous to fit on your roof. 

For off-grid RV living, however, a solar panel installation can help you avoid burning through gallons of fuel running your generator all night or finding your batteries completely depleted when you finally decide to “re-enter” civilization. 

Even full-time RVers who wind up spending a ton on electrical energy costs can benefit from a small solar installation that reduces their overall energy consumption from the grid. 

But if you only take your RV out for a handful of trips every year, you’ll probably find that the initial investment into a solar installation isn’t really going to bring a healthy ROI over the life of your RV. 

Frequently Asked Questions

While I hope you’ve already learned a lot about using solar power for RV air conditioner applications, I’m sure there are a few more helpful hints I can provide.

So I’ll use this section to answer some frequently asked questions about solar power and solar installations. 

Is there a simple formula for calculating RV solar power needs?

Relatively simple! But you must start by understanding the electrical system size of your RV in kilowatts (kW).

From there, multiply that number by 1,000 to get your system size in watts (there are 1,000 watts in 1 kilowatt). 

Then, decide on the wattage capacity of the solar panels you intend to install. Finally, divide the first number by the second to get your solar power needs. For reference: 

A 30 amp RV plug supplies a maximum of 3,600 watts (3.6 kW). 

A 50 amp RV plug supplies a maximum of 12,000 watts (12 kW). 

RV System Size: 3.6 kW

Wattage Per Panel: 300 watts

Panels Needed: (3.6 x 1000) / 300 = 12

What kind of wattage will I need to run my RV air conditioner?

This depends on the size of your A/C unit, but here are some common wattage ratings for different units: 

7,000 BTU A/C = 1,700 starting watts and 600 running watts

10,000 BTU A/C = 2,000 starting watts and 700 running watts

13,500 BTU A/C = 2,750 starting watts and 1,250 running watts

15,000 BTU A/C = 3,500 starting watts and 1,500 running watts

What are BTUs?

BTU stands for ‘British Thermal Units’. It’s a unit used to measure thermal energy but, more specifically, it represents the amount of energy needed to raise one pound of water by one degree (Fahrenheit) at sea level.

In heating and air conditioning applications, this measurement signals how many BTUs per hour the unit can add or remove from the air.  

From where I’m standing, clean, renewable energy is the wave of the future.

For RVers in particular, I believe that investing in solar energy from the outset can save you considerable money over the life of your RV.

For example, you’d probably be shocked if I told you how much I paid just in electric costs to heat my RV for a winter in the mountains. 

We get great sun exposure here too, so we would’ve saved ourselves quite a chunk of change if we had installed solar on the roof to at least reduce the amount of electricity we were pulling from the grid.

Solar technology continues to improve, so keep an eye out for updates in this department and best of luck installing your RV solar setup! 

About Author / Aaron Richardson

Aaron Richardson is an expert RVer and the co-founder of RVing Know How. Aaron, along with his wife Evelyn, has been living and traveling in their Keystone Fuzion RV since 2017. Their adventures span across the country and beyond, including memorable RVing experiences in Mexico. Aaron's passion for the outdoors and RVing shines through in his writings, where he shares a blend of travel stories, practical tips, and insights to enhance the RV lifestyle.

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How To Run AC Without Electricity (RV AC Without Generator)

• December 28, 2022 /
• RV Air Conditioner /
• By James V.

It is virtually impossible to run any electrical device without some form of electricity. There has to be some form of electrical power to run AC units, etc., However, the electricity can come from solar, batteries, or 30-amp plug-in.

If you are in a boondocking situation, like camping in a large big box store parking lot, you won’t find any shore power or have the chance to use your generator. Your power sources for AC will be limited to batteries or solar power.

To learn more about its problem just continue to read our article. It has the information you want to know about so you can run your AC in different boondocking situations without pulling out your generator.

How To Run AC Without Electricity

Again, the word electricity is erroneous here as you will need some sort of electrical source to run your AC unit or other electrical devices. You may not own a generator or may not be in a position to pull one out if you do.

So the better concept would be how to run your AC unit without the use of a generator or shore power. There are 3 ways to do this.

1. Add extra batteries to your RV or trailer- when you add more batteries, make sure to add an inverter to get the right kind of power to your AC unit. The only problem with this solution is you have to figure out how many more batteries you will need to make the AC unit go.

That is without robbing your other electrical devices of needed power. AC units take a lot of power to run so you will need a lot of new batteries to handle the load.

2 . Solar panels- efficient, quiet, and will always be there when you have the sun shining throughout the day. However, the trouble begins with the amount of power your AC unit needs.

On average they will need at least 1300 watts for start-up power which means you would need to install about 2000 watts worth of solar panels on your RV’s roof. You may not have the room for that many solar panels.

3. A direct power source- this is other than a generator or shore power. But again, you would need an inverter to handle the power transfer so your AC unit can function correctly.

There is a fourth option that will work best with all of the above. Simply buy a portable AC unit that does not require a lot of power to run. It will also cut down on your need for extra batteries and solar panels.

Can a 12V Battery Power An Air Conditioner?

Yes, it can but if you are going to use your house batteries, then you will find them dead within the hour approx. The AC unit requires far too much power than is held in your batteries to work right.

To get the right amount of batteries to power your AC unit, you would need to calculate the amps and wattage totals to make sure the number of batteries you are using has enough power. Then you need to calculate how long those batteries will last once you turn on the AC unit.

After that, you will need to calculate how much space you will need to house those extra batteries. You may have to sacrifice some basement storage space to make sure you have enough room for the batteries, the inverter, and the wiring. Make sure the inverter is powerful enough to handle the workload.

On top of that, you have to buy the right size of wires to make sure there are no electrical problems between connections or at those connections. This is a long and involved project and may not be feasible for most RV owners.

No matter which way you look at it, this set up would be quite expensive as would any solar panel set up that provides enough power to the AC unit.

Can RV AC Run Without a Generator?

Yes, as long as it has some form of electrical source sending power to its motor, etc. The only time the AC unit won’t run, barring breakdowns, etc., is when it has no electrical power source.

Unfortunately, without either shore power or a generator, your electrical source options are fairly limited. One of the more expensive options would be solar power. You would need some very large solar panels, batteries, wiring, and other components to make this option feasible.

There is no guarantee that you will get enough sun throughout the day to generate the power an AC unit needs to start and then run for several hours. Of course, everything we have said here is dependent upon the size of the AC unit you have in your RV or trailer.

Smaller AC units won’t need as much power as larger ones. The 15,000 BTU unit will require a lot more power than say a 5,000 or an 8,000 BTU. This means you would need to adapt those electrical source options according to the size of your AC unit.

In the end, you will have to do some math to make it all work for you. It is not so simple as erecting a windmill and using that as your power source. There is a lot of equipment needed for even that unrealistic option.

In other words, your battery banks will have to be the size that fits the size of your AC unit.

How To Run RV AC Without a Generator

One of the best options is to purchase a portable AC unit. These are small enough that they can be stored till you need them. Then when you are in a position where you can’t use your generator or shore power, forgo using the rooftop unit and plug this unit in.

These portable units can cool rooms measuring 275 to 350 square feet with ease and may not need the same amount of power as your rooftop model. You would have to check the specs to see if this is a doable option for you or not.

But we have discussed the 3 main options you have. You would need either solar panels and equipment or a battery bank large enough to power the AC unit. The direct power source is not a good idea unless it is an emergency situation.

Both of these feasible options require space, money, an inverter, and other equipment to run efficiently. Then you have to find a way to recharge those batteries in the battery bank so they are ready for the next time you boondock.

This is not an easy solution and even with a smaller trailer, you may not have the room for all the equipment needed to run your AC unit. Buying a generator large enough is the best solution if you do not have one.

The key will be securing it so it does not get stolen at night. Every RV owner should have a generator when they do not have shore power.

How do I Keep My RV Cool Without a Generator?

You can create different cooling devices. If you do not like the portable AC unit solution, then you can alter different products to act as an AC unit and keep your rooms fairly cool. Here are a few ideas:

1. Adapt a cooler

This will work if the cooler is large enough. Just add some tubing, a fan, and some ice. Then cut the right holes to place the fan and the tubing in the right spots. Then turn the fan on after placing the ice inside. It may work best in smaller rooms.

2. Convert a 5-gallon bucket

It takes a little work as you will again need to cut or drill the right-sized holes in this bucket. Once that is done, add the right amount of insulation to help keep the ice from melting too quickly. Then add the fan.

The air inside the bucket will be cooled by at least one gallon of ice. These two ideas can be operated from your regular house batteries without taking too much power from them.

3 . Black out drapes and fans

Simply hang these drapes and close them during the day. Then turn on a nice house fan and let that cool air keep your RV cool without using your AC unit. You may have other good ideas that will work for the size of the trailer.

Some Final Words

Every electrical device needs an electrical source to make it work. The trick is to find the right power source when you cannot use a generator or shore power. The problem is that most solutions can be very expensive.

The best thing to do is research the issue and see what is available to you and will work as you want it to. But the best solution is to buy a generator.

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2 dead, 1 hurt after 350,000-pound load detaches from 18-wheeler and pins vehicle in Texas

Two people are dead and one person is in critical condition after an oversized load disconnected from an 18-wheeler Saturday and pinned a vehicle beneath it in Temple, Texas.

Emergency crews responded to the incident about 90 minutes north of Austin at 11:20 a.m. and found the load − which weighed 350,000 pounds − on top of a vehicle carrying three people at the intersection of Highway 36 and 317, according to Temple Fire & Rescue's Facebook page. The Temple Police Department was also called to the scene.

It took EMS four hours to safely remove the driver of the vehicle. He was then flown to Baylor Scott & White Health with life-threatening injuries, officials told USA TODAY.

Police told USA TODAY that an investigation is still underway but declined to comment further.

Police ask that anyone with information regarding the incident call the Temple Police Department at 254-298-5500 or the Bell County Crime Stoppers at 254-526-8477, which does accept anonymous tips.

Tips can also be sent anonymously through bellcountycrimestoppers.com.

Julia is a trending reporter for USA TODAY. She has covered various topics, from local businesses and government in her hometown, Miami, to tech and pop culture.   You can follow her on  X, formerly known as Twitter ,  Instagram  and  TikTok : @juliamariegz

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What Temperature Should You Set Your Air Conditioner in the Summer?

Stay cool while also saving on your energy bills.

Erica is a personal finance writer and travel expert with a decade of experience. She contributes to USA TODAY, Forbes, CNBC, and many other top-tier media outlets. Erica writes about travel tips, destinations, reward credit cards, and ways to save money on travel. Highlights: * Regular contributor to USA TODAY, covering destinations, trends, and how to save money on travel * Travel insurance expert for Forbes, contributing 50+ articles on travelers' insurance * Freelance writer covering health, real estate, business, and parenting with work published in Oprah Magazine, Reader's Digest, U.S. News & World Report, Parents, and NBC News

• When You're Not Home
• Energy Use and Bills
• Central vs. Window/Portable
• Other Ways to Keep Cool

With record temperatures and soaring utility bills, it can be challenging to figure out what temperature to set your air conditioner to in the summer while keeping your energy bills in check. On sweltering days, you may feel tempted to lower your thermostat and crank your AC, but the result will be a high bill at the end of the month. It’s a tricky proposition, so some expert input can help provide a solution.

We’ve asked heating and cooling experts about the best temperature to set an AC in the summer so you can stay cool and keep a handle on expenses.  

• Angie Hicks is the chief customer officer at Angi and co-founder of Angie’s List.
• Austyn Hoelter is a merchant at The Home Depot .

Grace Cary/Getty Images

What Is the Best Temperature To Set an AC in the Summer?

According to ENERGY STAR, a division of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, 78 degrees Fahrenheit is the most cost-effective AC setting during the summer months. And that's just the recommendation for when you're at home. “However, you should turn down your thermostat at night for optimal sleep and comfort,” says Angie Hicks, chief customer officer at Angi.

The National Sleep Foundation recommends temperatures between 60 and 67 degrees Fahrenheit for sleeping. Human bodies lower their temperature to prepare for sleep, and lowering your thermostat can help that process.

That said, Hicks adds, your ideal summer temperature could be higher or lower depending on your personal preferences, your location and the type of AC unit you have.

What Temperature Should You Set the AC When You Aren’t Home?

The first consideration in determining the right temperature for your AC in the summer is whether or not you will be home. “If you are leaving your home for the day, you can set the thermostat to a higher temperature to save energy,” Hicks says.

If you're working outside of the home, ENERGY STAR suggests kicking the temperature setting up by at least 7 degrees Fahrenheit. You can keep this rule of thumb in mind when winter rolls around, too. “In the winter, you can set your thermostat five degrees lower for the same effect,” she adds.

If you will be home all day, you should set your thermostat to a comfortable temperature. “Most people choose a temperature in the 70s during the summer months, but it really depends on your personal preference,” Hicks explains. “Just keep in mind that your energy bills will increase if you choose a temperature that is drastically lower than the temperature outside.”

How Does the Temperature Setting of Your AC Affect Your Energy Use and Bills?

Your HVAC system uses energy to heat and cool the air inside of your home. “When it’s hot outside, the system needs to use more energy to cool down your home, which leads to higher energy bills,” explains Austyn Hoelter, merchant at The Home Depot. The opposite is true in the winter months, and your energy bills will increase as you set your thermostat to higher temperatures, she says.

Central Air vs. Window and Portable Units

The recommended temperature settings for air conditioners are easiest to apply to central air systems, where you have the most control and reliability. However, if you're using central air, says Hicks, it’s helpful to keep note of the location of the thermostat as there will always be differences between rooms. “If needed, look for a remote sensor to be able to control the temperature based on individual rooms being used,” she suggests.

Finding the right temperature can be a little more complicated if you use window units rather than whole-home HVAC systems, according to Hoelter. “ Window AC units are only able to cool small spaces, so you may need to use multiple units to cool your entire home,” says Hoelter. “You also might need to use trial and error to find the right temperature using a window unit.”

Not all window and portable AC units come with a built-in thermostat, so it may take some time to determine the right settings—and you may need to remember to turn the unit on and off to avoid using too much energy.

However, no matter what type of AC you have, it helps to combine your cooling system with other actions to reduce heat in your home—like closing the curtains and using fans to circulate air.

Other Ways to Keep Your Home Cool

While air conditioners will always win as the best way to keep your home cool, there are other things you can do to support the AC (and lower your energy costs).

Install a Programmable or Smart Thermostat

Programmable thermostats are handy because you can set them up once and not have to worry about adjusting the temperature every time you leave the house, go to sleep, or come home. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates you can "save up to 10% on your energy bills by setting your thermostat 7 to 10 degrees higher for eight hours a day." Using a programmable thermostat guarantees you won't forget to make the adjustment—and miss out on the savings.

Smart thermostats come with apps that connect to your smartphone, so you can remotely adjust the temperature without being in the room (or even at home).

Install Zonal AC

Homes with more than one story may experience marked temperature differences from floor to floor. With zonal air conditioning, the house is divided into different areas or "zones," each controlled by its own thermostat. That way, you can turn up the air conditioning on the second floor (which gets warmer than the first floor) without freezing out the first floor.

In larger homes, a second HVAC system may be the right option. With two HVAC systems, you can set each separately for each area of the house the system controls.

Use Ceiling Fans

Any air circulation can help when it comes to cooling your home. The  Department of Energy  says that "if you use ceiling fans, you can set your thermostat to four degrees higher and still feel comfortable." They also say you should run your ceiling fan counterclockwise in the summer, as that pushes air down instead of drawing it up.

Open Windows and Use Window Fans

Opening up the house may not be an option when it's super hot. However, window fans use less energy than air conditioners and can provide relief from the heat. Even if you need to run your air conditioner during the day, give it a rest in the evenings if the temperature outside drops.

Close Blinds and Shades

With the sun beating down through the windows, it's easy to feel the temperature in a room rise. You can combat this by keeping your shades drawn and blinds closed to block out the rays. Even better, choose heat-blocking curtains, which have a special layer designed to keep the heat out.

Seal Your Home

Just as you might in the winter, sealing your house in the summer can help prevent cool air from escaping. Use weatherstripping and caulking to reduce air leaks, and put draft stoppers on any doors that don't have a good seal.

Turn Off Appliances

Any heat-generating appliances (like the oven and dryer) will raise the temperature in your home, so avoid using those when the weather is hottest. Investing in an air fryer might be a good plan if you need to cook—they don't get as hot and can cook food efficiently.

Run a Dehumidifier

The DOE suggests that running a dehumidifier can boost your home cooling if you live in a particularly humid climate. Dehumidifiers come in models meant for individual rooms or in whole-home options.

Harding EC, Franks NP, Wisden W. The temperature dependence of sleep . Front Neurosci. 2019;13:336.

Fans for cooling . Energy.gov.

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